Bad Alignment Numbers After Alignment

So I got my truck aligned after putting on 5100s on the 1.75" setting. Long story short it was flooding when I picked it up, I had my daughter with me and I was in a hurry. When I got home and the rain quit I noticed the passenger tire had noticeable positive camber. The driver looks ok but, here are the numbers. What should I get with this setup? All my front end parts are in good shape 126k on the truck.

 

Lol you got the typical "toe and go" alignment. Either your lower cams are siezed(they should have informed you) or they adjusted toe and didn't attempt to fix the camber or caster.

 

Yea the cams are not siezed, I marked them yesterday before I loosened the bolts to install the 5100s. I called them back and hey said they will take another look at it. Shouldn't the camber be 0*

 

It should be or at least very close to 0. So they were just being lazy and it's now costing you more time to have them do it right.

 

At the most, they did a toe adjustment. I bet they didn't do anything because it was within factory specs. Obvious sign is the caster is the same (.1 change on one side) almost impossible to change one without the other. If you marked it, should be pretty easy to tell if they moved the cams.

 

Cams are dead on the mark I made on both sides.... It pisses me off that I have to take it back again. Guess I know where not to take it back to after this time.

 

Did you just loosen the bolts, or did you actually turn the cam? The bolts aren't what seize up, it's the cam seizing in the bushing.

 

But it was within factory spec. Just barely, but it is. Unless you tell them what numbers you want, within spec is good enough. I had to search for a shop that would go out of the factory specs to get positive 3.5 caster. My local Toyota dealer flat out refused to do anything out of factory spec even though my truck is heavily modified.

 

The cams moved when I pushed the lower control arm down to get the struts out on both sides. I lined them back up so I could drive it to the shop.

 

1° caster
1.3° camber
.10 toe (L&R)

^^^^ Is still "within spec" but any decent tech knows that's going to drive like shit and eat tires.

Bottom line is they didn't want to take the time to mess with anything else.

 

You got ripped off. They did a toe and go on ya

 

I'm taking to back to them hopefully they make it right. I live in a small town so I don't think they will have a problem making it right.

 

I agree he got screwed. But, I can guarantee any of the dozen or so alignment places around where I live would leave it as is. Even any adjustments would still be within spec even if it was running 3" lift and 33's with UCAs. Living in the midwest farming area where almost every "lift" is a bracket junk country redneck full size truck, most techs would have no clue how to setup a good alignment on a Tacoma.

 

So I dropped my truck off at the shop this morning. The owner called me and states that if they adjust the camber to 0*, toe to 0* and caster to 2.1 to 2.4 "which is what I've seen a lot of people set the caster to with my setup" that it is going to wear out my tires. What am I missing here?? Do they just not know what they are doing? I told him that's how I want it set and he told me he would set it to that but, would not warranty the alignment after changing it to those settings.

 

If the toe and camber are 0 there is absolutely no way they will wear out any faster. I'd say he's trying to act like there is nothing wrong with the way they had it, even though they only adjusted toe.

 

Well I may take it to another shop for them to check it after they get done with it. I don't want to wear out a brand new set of tires. Do you know if 2.1 to 2.4 caster is where I need to be? I found several threads that said on the 1.75" setting that's what it needed to be so that's all I have to go on.

 

higher caster the better up to about 3 but you would probably need new LCA's to get to 3

 

This is what they adjusted it to this. Guy had a different tune about him when I showed up. He apoligized about the first time. He said this is the best they could do with the stock cams (not sure how true that is...)



<(1st gen action) the tires are staight now and it doesn't pull at all. Hopefully I will have good even wear.


Both cams were moved from the mark I made prior to the lift. I didn't check the front side of the LCA

 

I didn't even notice the initial Toe being off so bad.... maybe they adjusted something prior to putting it on the alignment machine.

 

Few things here...........the factory adjusters will take caster to give camber and vice versa. They can only get so close with factory adjusters being lifted. Caster being high or low will NOT wear tires, it'll wear on your nerves if too low and drive all twitchy and grab on pavement grooves. Camber off will wear tires. I have 5100s set to 1.75 and caster/camber ended up about where yours did (the 2nd time) - a bit low but not unbearable. I have LR UCAs to put on the truck and that is where you get caster back and have slot so you can get camber right as well. You being 4x4 might want uniball UCAs of some sort since articulation off road matters, mine = prerunner. They are more expensive. 0,0,2.5-3.0 are good numbers to shoot for. More caster will help truck feel more planted to ground and not have wandering feeling.