PennSilverTaco's "Perfect 5-Lug Regular Cab" Build, Aspergers, and General BS MegaThread!

LOL Beer seems to be the unofficial currency of weekend DIY jobs (and pretty much all jobs). I gave my neighbor a 12-pack of Michelob Ultra (his favorite) for helping me install my new stereo and backup camera.

 

You gotta be shitting me?! The price dropped from $190 to $165.

If I only waited a week more





http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Taco...3-2014-COMPLETE-EASIEST-INSTALL-/182211213521

 

Price from Ebay vendor tends to vary month to month. Purchased exact unit from them back a month ago for under $150.00 shipped.
Nice unit, fairly simple install if you don't mind splicing a few wires.

Believe it may be the same distributor as http://codealarmremotes.com/vehicle-specific-systems.
Vehicle specific install is the way to go ... No guesswork.
Actual delivered kit was a slightly modified Code Alarm #CA5054 unit, w (2) /4-button transmitters.
Nice clean package, allows me to keep my factory remotes as the new ones totally replace.

Took me about 3-hrs start to finish .... first time.
Experienced install should now be under an hour.

 

To be fair, the six pack was a goner before the project was done

--Dan

 

I would not doubt the quality of the U-Haul hitch, but would prefer any of the aftermarket do-it-yourself hitches.

 

Curt hitch is good too

 

@File IFR , was it plug and play? Doesn't look like out from your pics, looks like a lot of chop and splice...

:ear

 

I believe he has Asperger's Syndrome. His stories/ membership on TW are a way for him to 'socialize' with people and not be withdrawn as it's known to be for these folks.

The stories are harmless and well told.... Keep it going OP.

 

Not plug-n-play in the traditional sense, wires had to be tapped into.... I soldered and taped each well.

The other stuff you see hanging down is the heated mirror relay and it's wiring...... that's why it looks like a rat's nest there, I cut the zipties to bundle all that stuff.

It was all pretty easy actually. The only 'hard' part was untaping and spreading the high current bundle apart (all the ignition wires) to remove it's insulation to tap into..... and that wasn't a big deal to do. The huge timesaver-----> The seller also gives several papers on what color wires you will be tapping into for the Taco and how to program the bypass..... he makes it nearly idiot-proof

When I got the unit, the bundles were already wrapped in black fabric tape, connectors were already plugged into the bypass and starter's receiver so it didn't look 'intimidating' as it would to some people.

If I did another one on a Tacoma, I know for sure I could do it in just over 2 hours.

If you choose to get this kit (Code Alarm), I'll give you a hand over the phone if you hit a roadblock with your install. This is probably my 3rd or 4th actual remote starter install experience.

BTW, not one wire actually gets cut, just 'T'ed into.

 

Excellent intel, just what I needed to know. I don't mind tapping into stuff, as long as the directions are clear. Sounds like they are, and that the kit has all necessary stuff to make it happen.

Thank you again for being the beta tester.

 

My pleasure. I will confess, I didn't install the hood pin switch that prevents the starter from operating, but I certainly will.

I'd hate to be in the midst of changing my oil and someone from inside the house hits the start button . I'll probably do it next week.

 

Is it just me or what? How come I refuse to believe personal opinions or experience? Is/are there any official test(s) somewhere we can all go by and not based on what "He says, she says, they say or we say?"

 

Nice. I may just pull the trigger on this pretty soon since I have some work to do on my stereo anyways so the soldering iron will already be fired up. Thanks for the tip!

 

Friend is a manager for u-haul, says their hitchs are made by Curt.

 

If you find something on that let me know. I just think the cruise control does anything necessary to maintain the speed you set it at. Even if that means Reving the engine to 4K RPM to get there

 

I'm not worried about the extra nickels in gas even if that is true. It is a comfort item for me that is well worth the price if there is any.

 

My 2007 was a base model with no options. yes its plug n play.. And yes its worth it, especially if you can get a used cruise switch. I did the Cruise switch and changed my wipers to Intermittent wipers and both well worth it.

 

@LocoLocal

October-November 2009: Within the first 600 miles, the transmission started slipping out of park seemingly at random. Took it to the dealer we bought it from and they couldn't "recreate the problem." Took it to a dealer closer to us (Thompson) and they fixed it within a day.

Summer 2011: Factory radio would turn on and off at random. One notable time I was making U-turn in the parking lot of the local post office and I had the radio off. I had Jimmy Buffet in the CD player, and all of a sudden "Margaritaville" started blaring without warning and scared the sh*t out of me. Took it to Thompson and they replaced the whole radio under warranty.

January 2012: HVAC blower motor started making an intermittent clicking noise. Took it to Thompson and the whole blower motor was replaced under warranty.

Sometime in mid-2012 (don't remember when): Radio started acting up AGAIN! Took it to Thompson thinking it was the actual radio again. Thompson once again was ready to replace it under warranty and ordered a new radio. They then discovered that the AUX input was bad and replaced that under warranty.

The bumper-to-bumper warranty covered ended in September 2012. Ironically, in spring 2013, I ripped the entire factory system out and put in an aftermarket Pioneer system, making all warranty work on the factory system pointless.

February 2014: Master cylinder failed, luckily while I was stopped. The pushrod jammed and locked the calipers in place. The rear wheels would move when I hit the gas, but the front wheels were locked. Had to call AAA and have the truck towed to Thompson. $1,200 for a new master cylinder.

September 2014: Something got screwed up with the gear lever interlock that caused my truck to "resist" shifting from park into reverse or drive. Powertrain warranty was still good at this pint but unfortunately this $100 part wasn't covered.

Anybody have weird things happen with their truck?

 

Just the issue with the secondary air injection system that seems to be particularly troublesome to 2012s.

 

@LocoLocal

I would first like to point out that this truck was parked on the street near a very close friend's house. Most of my friend's neighbors know me and like me, and know that photography is a hobby of mine. Normally I would not take so many pictures of someone's vehicle outside of a car show, but this truck was here for days and I wanted to get pics before it got towed away...

I posted these on the "Let's see those wrecked Tacos" thread, but I decided to give them their own thread just for the heck of it. I spotted this Taco parked on my friend's street several days in a row back in December 2015 and decided to take a few pictures. My Tacoma has it's share of dents and scratches, but I'd say it's in "Good" condition. I have seen many Tacomas that were involved in accidents and have damage concentrated to one area of the vehicle (two areas if it was hit and pushed into something). This truck seems to have damage just about everywhere, from numerous accidents. I believe this is a 2011 based on the front end design, but it looks much older than that based on the condition.

This angle shows the extent of the damage to the right side of the truck (broken and taped right taillight, dents and rust on rear bumper, scuff on left rear fender near taillight)…




Up close pic #1 (Busted window, large rusty gash in C-pillar, dent above fuel door, scuff on left rear door)…




Up close look at the rusty gash in the C-pillar...




Another pic of the left rear door scuff plus scuffs on left rear fender flare...




At least $1,500 in damage (probably more) to left front (front bumper dented in, left front fender crumpled, scuffs on bumper and fender flare, hood slightly damaged); Also note that inspection stickers were expired by more than a year at the time pictures were taken...




Up close look at left front damage...




"Head on" front view, showing additional scuff marks on right side of front bumper...




Damage to the right side not as bad, just a few scuffs and dents...



Scuff on right rear door and right rear fender, couple of dings on lower cab corner...




Busted right taillight...