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Starting System Issues

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Gnarlyshredder, Dec 31, 2016.

  1. Dec 31, 2016 at 1:12 AM
    #1
    Gnarlyshredder

    Gnarlyshredder [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So I was doing some mudding and turned my car off and then it would not turn back on. I would turn the key and all my lights would come on, but I couldn't get the engine to crank at all, just a single loud click.

    I was able to start my car and get home by using my friends battery as I wasn't sure at the time if my battery was the issue or not, cutting off the negative wire connector and holding fresh wire to the negative terminal, and having another friend hit my starter with a hammer while I turned the key.:bananadance:

    Since hitting the starter with a hammer did the trick, I assumed the starter was bad and purchased a new one from Toyota, but I'm still getting the same single click.

    Its not my battery as I tried it in my friends jeep and it started right up.

    It's also not my terminal connections as I replaced the negative connector and the positive one is fine.

    The new starter isn't bad as it works when hooked up directly to the battery.

    When I turn the key all the way, both the positive and negative connections on the starter get between 11.5-12v when tested with a voltage reader, which is more than enough. And also according to those readings, the connections from ignition switch to starter, and battery to starter shouldn't be corroded.

    I converted my truck from auto to manual, and have my clutch start switch wired directly together, so I don't need to depress the clutch to start it, so that shouldn't be the problem either.

    ...SO WHATS THE ISSUE!?!?:annoyed:

    If anyone has any other ideas of what to check, or other knowlegde regarding starting system problem, it would be much appreciated!!
     
  2. Dec 31, 2016 at 1:33 AM
    #2
    koditten

    koditten Well-Known Member

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    Have you checked the starter relay?
     
  3. Dec 31, 2016 at 1:42 AM
    #3
    Gnarlyshredder

    Gnarlyshredder [OP] Well-Known Member

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    No I have not. Do you know how I would go about checking that?
     
  4. Dec 31, 2016 at 1:45 AM
    #4
    koditten

    koditten Well-Known Member

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    They are cheap. $7 at auto zone. Just buy a new one and swap it out.
     
  5. Dec 31, 2016 at 3:37 AM
    #5
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    Where did you splice your neutral safety switch .

    unless you changed wiring harnesses you don`t have a clutch safety switch

    Under the truck maybe the mud got inside your splice causing corrosion that is now causing a poor connection.
     
    Caligula likes this.
  6. Dec 31, 2016 at 5:08 AM
    #6
    Caligula

    Caligula Well-Known Member

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    This. Also go back to basics, check alternator output and starter connections with your voltmeter. May be a loose wire.
     
  7. Dec 31, 2016 at 5:50 AM
    #7
    ROCKIN RICHIE

    ROCKIN RICHIE Well-Known Member

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  8. Dec 31, 2016 at 6:38 AM
    #8
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    Agree. Check grounds and terminal connections again. A battery connection can look fine but be bad were the wire is crimpped into it. Battery wire at starter is another possibility.
     
  9. Dec 31, 2016 at 9:30 AM
    #9
    tan4x4

    tan4x4 Well-Known Member

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    Mudding has been known to destroy alternators.
     
  10. Dec 31, 2016 at 10:50 AM
    #10
    Gnarlyshredder

    Gnarlyshredder [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I snipped two wires from the neutral safety switch plug that connected to the old auto tranny and ran them up to my clutch. I did have it working so that I had to depress my clutch to push the little button on the bottom of it to start my truck, but the connector stopped working or something so I just connected them directly to each other bypassing the switch plug.

    But I'll double check the two wires for mud or disconnections.
     
  11. Jan 1, 2017 at 9:21 PM
    #11
    Gnarlyshredder

    Gnarlyshredder [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So I tested the starter relay and it has proper continuity where it should and clicked when hooked up to a 9v battery. So the starter relay can be crossed out.
     
  12. Jan 1, 2017 at 9:23 PM
    #12
    Gnarlyshredder

    Gnarlyshredder [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Here are the voltages I tested they look alright to me but does anyone see an issue?IMG_1966.jpg
     
  13. Jan 1, 2017 at 9:41 PM
    #13
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    Ahhh ya! .5 volts is no good
     
  14. Jan 1, 2017 at 10:00 PM
    #14
    Gnarlyshredder

    Gnarlyshredder [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I didn't think so. What I dont understand though is how it gets the full voltage from the battery before the ignition is turned but then it barely gets any after it is turned. Doesn't that mean that the connections from battery to starter are fine since?
     
  15. Jan 1, 2017 at 10:05 PM
    #15
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    Some were between battery and starter post there is a bad connection. With no amperage going through it its fine. But as some as you try to pull amps thru the cable it looses connection. If your volt meter has pointed probes, poke thru the insulation right after battery terminal and right before starter terminal. Run your starting test and see were it looses voltage.
     
  16. Jan 1, 2017 at 10:07 PM
    #16
    Gnarlyshredder

    Gnarlyshredder [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Okay thanks I'll try that and see what I come up with
     
  17. Jan 1, 2017 at 10:18 PM
    #17
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    I bet you'll find a bad positive battery terminal
     
  18. Jan 1, 2017 at 10:39 PM
    #18
    Gnarlyshredder

    Gnarlyshredder [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I sure hope so:fingerscrossed: but I can't check till tomorrow
     
  19. Jan 2, 2017 at 1:57 AM
    #19
    DrZ

    DrZ Well-Known Member

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    Check the cables like others said, but I'd like to ask how tight you torqued the big cable to the new starter. If you over torque it the contacts inside may rotate slightly and cause the solenoid plunger to not hit the contacts evenly. You may want to take the solenoid cover off just to check that the contacts are laying flat. Hooking it up directly to the battery may work just because the starter is at a different angle than when installed, or did you hook it directly to the battery while it was installed?

    If the starter is installed, you can put your hand on the starter as someone turns the key. You can feel if the plunger is activating inside the solenoid. If it feels like the plunger is working than you either have a problem with the internal starter contacts or you are not getting enough current through the large cable to the starter to spin the motor.
     
  20. Jan 2, 2017 at 9:45 PM
    #20
    Gnarlyshredder

    Gnarlyshredder [OP] Well-Known Member

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    GOOD NEWS!!! I replaced the battery to starter cable and she started right up:thumbsup:
    Hopefully that was the only issue and I don't have anymore problems.

    Sucks I bought a new starter when it was just a bad cable, but hey at least I'll never have to replace it ever again (knock on wood)

    Thanks to everyone that gave their wisdom and advice!
     
    ThunderOne, DrZ and mechanicjon like this.

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