12V in bed

I want to put a 12v plug in the bed. I figure the storage box would be a great place to put a 12 receptacle.

I don't want to cut and splice wires if I don't have to. It's a brand new truck and I don't want to screw around with warranty issues. I like plug and play.

Does anyone know of a harness that I could use to put inline of the tow lights plug? I've seen them for other cars but haven't seen one for the taco yet. (something like this: https://www.etrailer.com/p-C57674.html).

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

 

It will depend on if you want the 12v plug live all the time or only when the truck is on. The dealer that installed my cap tied into the trailer wiring and now I only have interior cap lights when the truck is on. You are better off running a new power line to the battery.

 

I was told that there is an always hot line in the trailer lighting system.

Yes, I want it hot all the time. I suppose I could live with it being only hot when the 'key' is turned to accessory.

 

So, nobody has done this? I really don't want to run wires from the battery. I'm afraid that I'll void warranties etc. If I had a nice in line splice at the trailer harness it would be easy to unplug/remove if I needed any Toyota service work.

I'm actually quite surprised that there isn't already a 12v and a USB outlet in the bed.

Where is the inverter for the 120V? In the bed? I haven't poked around - if it's in the bed (unlikely) they would need to run a pretty stout 12V wire to the inverter - and I could tap it there.

 

The 120v inverter is under the armrest/center console.

The 12v outlet is on my upgrade list once my lease is up and wish list if I get a 3.5/4th gen instead.

 

You can always get a test light or multimeter and check the trailer harness for a constant hot 12v wire. Otherwise you'll have to run wires from the battery.

 

That's is also switched. The 120v is not always live.

 

better off just running it new from the fusebox.
you can have it always on, and having its own fuse.

could even use this and go straight to the battery
https://www.amazon.com/ARB-10900028...369&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=arb+12v+outlet&th=1

 

you can't void your warranty by cutting and splicing wires, unless the dealership can show that having done so caused damage to whatever part you're asking them to deal with under the truck's warranty.

Had to deal with that for many years back when I was working in an install bay

 

That's a really good idea. Cheap and quick.

 

I'm thinking something like this with an inline fuse or breaker (or both). It would be really nice to have power for some lights in the canopy as well - and this could be a good starting point.

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue-...ocket-dual-usb-charger--17054198?recordNum=14

Damn - I hate the idea of futzing around running a wire all the way from the battery!

 

really not that hard to do.
Some tie wraps and you're good.

 

Yep, easy! I install 12v bed outlets for AZ members all the time. Takes an hour tops.

 

I went directly from the battery also. The same wire also powers the cap lights so I can use them when the truck is off.

 

The dealer that installed my cap just rewired it today directly to the battery, now I have a constant 12v source back there!

 

I think I'm going to install one of these:

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--dc-electrical-panels--P011861556?recordNum=4

Wish it had a main breaker. I might have to add a main switch: https://www.westmarine.com/buy/cole-hersee--lighted-toggle-switches--P009_273_008_502?recordNum=28

I like the toggle - reminds me of the crappy work my dad did as a kid . But a lighted rocker might look better.

 

Where are you guys mounting the plugs in the bed? Any pics?

 

This.

Tapping (or using a harness to connect to) an existing wire/powersource may easily result in you drawing more current than that wire/circuit is designed for. Best case, you blow a fuse. Worst case, you melt the wire or otherwise damage the circuit. Absolutely not worth the risk.

Get yourself some 2AWG wire and connect it to the battery's positive terminal. Put a 100amp circuit breaker inline, and run the wire under the truck, to your bed pocket. In the pocket, mount a Blue Sea fuse box (6 or 12 circuit - up to you), and connect the wire to the fuse box's positive terminal. Run a similar 2AWG wire from the negative terminal on that same fuse box down to a ground on the frame. Then connect your 12V accessory to the new fuse box.

You'll have more circuits available for other accessories (such as bed lights and other goodies), you will not have touched the truck's OEM wiring and each custom circuit will be protected by its own fuse, resulting in just about the safest setup you can have.

 

^^^Yep, All Day long^^

 

Really good advice here!! It gives you multiple possibilities, like if you want to add bed lights later on or something else. And since it is an independent circuit not tied into the existing truck wiring, there's no chance of causing issues with the truck's electronics. I did something similar several years ago using 4 gauge welding wire run into the cab with an inline 60 amp fuse. It powers a cheapy 700w inverter in the cab, but I have tapped into it a few times for other items like an extra 12v outlet mounted just underneath the rear glass opening.