RCI Front Skid Plate mounting question

I am considering replacing factory skids on 2016 TRD OR. I like the look and design of the RCI skid. One thing I learned is it requires removal of the 2 brackets that attach the radiator support beam (cross member) to the lower transverse frame. The brackets are structurally significant being of inverted U cross section and attached with a pair of large bolts on each end. Given that the radiator support plate cross member is welded to the bumper brackets that tie in directly to the frame, it doesn't need these 2 brackets that must be removed to install the skid plate. I am lead to believe these brackets strengthen the frame for frontal impacts and possibly other stiffness reasons. The installed skid plate can't possibly replicate the lost stiffness from removal of these brackets. The skid plates are relatively flexible longitudinally compared to the brackets that are removed. The number and size of factory bolts is a clue as to the intended design loads. Does anyone have an opinion as to the required bracket removal and any lost capability of the frame for reasons unrelated to the skid plate. I like the RCI design and readily agree it is much better than factory for skid protection. I wish removal of these 2 brackets was not required. I do not know for sure why Toyota put in such robust brackets. But at this point I will not be removing mine. Any insight is appreciated. I wish there was some way to find out from Toyota design engineers what the intended purpose of these robust brackets and bolts was. Thanks

 

Can't comment regarding the structural importance of these brackets, It looks like most aftermarket skids bolt to the underside in the same manner. The TRD pro skid leaves the brackets in place and four of the skid bolts replace the four bolts in the brackets and bolt into the same holes.

 

I also wanted to retain the brackets so I drilled my rci skid to attach at the front with the two smaller bolts that held the factory skid. However I lost an inch + in ground clearance by doing this.

 

I bet the skids are stronger than those brackets. I took mine off for CBI install.

 

The skid is likely stronger than the brackets, however the skid doesn't attach at the rear where the brackets do. It attaches to the cross member farther back.

 

You guys worry too much.

The full skid plate system is about as strong as you can get, it ties everything in together, so that any impact is distributed evenly.

I wouldn't hesitate to throw those stamped sheet metal brackets in the spare parts bin.

 

Agreed those brackets are trash I bet I could jump on them and they would bend. I have the rci skid and that thing is a beast. I feel the protection has more than doubled
rci vs. Oem.

 

Factory parts and inferior to heavy duty skid plates.

I went with a 1/4 steel front skid...it's a lot stiffer than those parts it replaced... By a lot .... I bet 3x stronger and a good bit thicker steel as well.

I wouldn't worry about removing and tossing the OEM parts, just keep the fasteners....

 

Enjoyed reading the various perspectives. The bolts size and number used by factory brackets is what concerns me. Those bolts are serious fasteners. Same type used for trailer hitches. If I were to go ahead with the RCI skid, I would probably do what Ironpeak 4x4 did; leave brackets in place. The skid plate, not being attached mid-span, is more flexible for horizontal impact loads from front end. Leaving the brackets retains the factory design strength in that direction. It also is a "strong-back" for upward loads when the skid is actually performing the skid-plate function. The only downside is loss of ground clearance which means you are more likely to need the skid plate. Does anyone know of a design that leaves the brackets but does not lose anymore ground clearance than the thickness of the skid plate?

 

The aluminum front skid from RCI leaves those cross members intact and is plenty robust. The owner of RCI runs all aluminum skids himself, and he beats the crap out of them.

That being said, I agree with the rest of the folks here. The steel front skid is easily as sturdy as the factory components. I have never seen any type of failure from the lack of those pieces.

 

The aluminum front skid from RCI leaves those cross members intact

I talked with RCI yesterday about installation and was told their current design requires removal of those cross members. It was a change they made. I asked if they had any older ones as I would prefer to leave brackets. They did not have any.

 

Pull them out. The brackets are used to provide strength to the factory skids, which are made of tin.

 

Just so I understand correctly, the current design, aluminum or steel, requires the removal of the cross members?

 

I stand corrected. The last two aluminum installs I did left the crossmembers intact. The last steel install I did required removal. All RCI products.

 

Id be happy to sell you my 1 year old aluminum RCI skid that leaves the crossmembers intact and upgrade to the newer style myself. It would ship for the same cost as buying it from RCI as well.

 

Yes. I talked via phone yesterday (twice) and was told they require removal. The brackets do provide support to the flimsy factory skid plates. But the brackets are so significant that I can't believe they are only for skid plate reinforcement. The steel (1/4" thick) is impressive. However, being fastened mid-span would be an improvement. The 4 bolts that connect the RCI skid to the frame don't have nearly the horizontal load transfer capability of the existing brackets. There are 6 or 7 bolts holding the 2 factory brackets in place. And they are high grade larger diameter bolts. Front impacts that are below bumper (e.g. Honda Accord) would buckle the aftermarket skid plate quickly. The factory brackets, bolts and members they connect (fore and aft) offer significant crash protection. I am a Structural Engineer and I was excited about getting the RCI skid plate. After inspecting the Tacoma design, I feel like I would be degrading my truck. To each his own. I may still get it and install as Ironpeak 4x4 did. Clearly the factory skids are flimsy.

 

BudBuilt front skid attaches like the factory skid. But the way the Budbuilt skids are segmented means it is not compatible with the engine, tranny, and T-case skids from other vendors.

 

This is why I sold my RCI skid and went with Mobtown. The Mobtown attaches at 6 points rather than 4 and does a better job of replicating the strength of the removed brackets IMO.