Clutch issues need some help

Happy new year to all,
So my clutch is acting up again! Like a month ago I put in a new master and slave cylinder because I was having a lot of play in the clutch. I nearly had to press as hard to the floor to shift.
Things were good for a like a month but now it is right back to where it was maybe worse. I was thinking it might be just a defective slave cylinder the master should be fine and I dont think I even needed to replace it when I did.

So the main problems that are occurring are:

-I really have to press hard to get it into gear both the clutch pedal and the shifter
-Some times it wont come out of gear I have to pump it but there is so little room to pump but it works
- some times it wont turn over
The slave is under warranty still so Im hoping that is the issue. its just a bit cold out here to start ripping uneccary thinfgs apart so wanted to see what everyone thoguht.
Thank you so much for the help in advance
Jeremy

 

Welcome to my world, I'm on my 3rd clutch in this truck in 15k miles. To be fair, the 2nd one was installed wrong by the shop I took it too. But the current one was put in by Toyota and is OEM and it's all fuxored as well. I have similar issues, clutch seems to "stick" (not the pedal, the clutch itself)...I'll put it into gear and when I go to accelerate, it just revs as if the clutch is still engaged. Have to push the pedal in again and release for it to go. Also I'm having a hell of a time getting into first gear from a stop.

Anyway, I'll be following your thread...I'm wondering if the master cylinder has something to do with it as well

 

Your problem sounds a little more severe than mine but maybe thats where mine is heading. I dont think its the master it seems more like the slave but it has been a while since I owned a manual so I am not up use to the little issues.
There is no grinding so I am hoping it is not the clutch plate or anything big.

 

Air in the system, or worn pressure plate, so the release bearing can't pass it pre determined sleeve length. One of the too, sounds like to me.

 

Sounds like air in the system to me. At least I hope for these guys, that's an easy drive way fix.

 

Yup, if they are pumping with results right after, yes, air.

 

The pumping only works to get out of gear. But the pedal is still way down. Wouldnt air in the system have shown its self before a month of driving?

 

I adjusted the bolt on the master cylinder and that help after installing the new parts after an hour of trying to get the air out and couldnt fet pressure to stay. I went on here read about the master cylinder bolt and bam, worked like a charm. But that bolt is as tight as it gets now.

 

Ill go out and see if i xan get any air out. Thanks guys

 

Okay so i went out and there was a touch of air in the system i think. However, thete was another issue..
When i went to look at the push rod for the master cylinder i could see it was at a weird angle so that when I pressed it in it was not fully pushing the rod in.

So i took apart the the link for the master and pedal and the attChment mount was cracked making it so the pushrod bent up in a weird angle because the plasic cross peice was cracked.
So i put the peice from the old master cylinder on and things seem good but i think ill need to reinstall the old master

 

I think maybe the angle of the rod allowed air into the system by pulling on the rubber gasket going into the cylinder. The rubber was also a little wet.
So do you think i just had the pushros ajusted poorly?

 

Oh also the clutch pedal return spring was not installed or even present when i did work on the clutch the first time. Could this be an issue. The pedal goes back up with out it

 

Where did you buy the master and slave? I've bought many defective ones from advanced auto.

Slave cylinders seem to go much more often than master cylinders do, and always make sure you bleed them good.

 

That's definitely an odd issue. I get those parts from Toyota for that reason. The aftermarket ones are pretty cheap. The OEM ones don't cost that much. Slave cylinder is around 35 frog skins from the dealer. Master is a little more but those rarely go bad. I replaced everything including rebuilding my manual trans. Which - I did because I had to tear it apart for other reasons. Hope you don't have to do that. If that rod was bent it could have caused your problems.

How many miles on your clutch?

 

Yeah I got them from autozone. they are duralast

 

It wasn't the clutch and the rod was not bent, it was weird like the part attached to the pedal cracked making it so the push-rod move up at an angle instead of straight on. The clutch has 160,000 on it. Ill probably try to get my money back on the crappy master from autozone and get a new OEM one from the dealer.

 

You sure it's the master and not the slave?

 

$49 AISIN CMT-030 OE Matched Clutch Master Cylinder - Compatible with Select Toyota T100, Tacoma

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JZDBE8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and

$34 AISIN CRT-014 OE Matched Clutch Slave Cylinder - Compatible with Select Toyota 4Runner, T100, Tacoma, Tundra

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JZDAW6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Replace both at the same time. Super easy job. Solved all my problems, + did the squeaky clutch pedal spring mod.

And as I mentioned in another thread, add Redline MT-90 to transmission and transfer case when replacing the oil. It was so noticeably better I was shocked. Definitely not a placebo, as others have indicated. I had a harsh grind going into second, its completely gone. All other gears are very smooth.