Power sliding window mod info thread

Thanks for the link, from my understanding since I am basically making the kit from scratch you can basically use any window regulator that uses a pull/pull cable system. I chose that of a dodge durango mainly because of the orientation of the cables as they exit the motor housing I think will work best for my setup, that and it was only 25$ here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/351242078214

 

Thanks for the picture, its nice to be able to visualize what others have done, If you have a picture of it installed (how it fits on the window, and the cable attachment setup you mentioned) that would be awesome, no big deal if not I think it will all make more sense as I get started on it.

I have all the parts ordered and am at just under 100$. Will post a comprehensive list when I get it installed.

 

Link to this pdf file?

 

I do believe your are correct about being able to use pretty much any window regulator. the reason I would prefer the ridgeline setup is because 1. the window mounting bracket thingy is designed for a rear window and I know for sure that the track is straight. I fee like some window brackets designed for front door windows may have a slight curve to them but I could be wrong. but I feel safer ordering a part online I know for certain will work. I would hate to spend money on something and it turn out that it wont work haha

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/attachments/window-bracket-pdf.234633/


This is the PDF with the dimensions of the window slider bracket

 

Thanks guys!

 

No problem, are you going to make one? If so what is your plan of attack?

 

I had a BenWa set up in my '12 Sport, loved it. That's the one thing I couldn't take off at trade in. The kit was great, I still have the instructions, I should make myself another one and install it on my '15 OR. The Ridgeline motor works fine, I would stick with that again if I do this. The window bracket is the part to have made, little outside my sawzall and hammer fab tech.

 

Maybe in the future but not at the current time. Just wanted to get everything lined up that I'll need.

 

This is my next project! For some reason tho this one makes me nervous lol

 

It's easy, trust me

 

If I got the one linked at the bottom of the page would that work???

 

I don't see why not. Honestly almost any regulator will work. The trick is mounting it to your back wall, and running the cables. The bracket is easy, especially with your connections to a machinist. Then connect the cables to the bracket, and run power. Personally I would recommend the Sienna switch like I used. It looks and fits like factory because it pretty much is. The one I linked is a great deal, but if you can find one at a junkyard that would be better because then you can get the plug with it too.

 

I used a knock-off Impala regulator, 5mm bicycle brake cables, and Sienna power vent switch (got everything off of Ebay) and then just built the window bracket out of 1/2 x 3/4 aluminum angle iron. Works great. Definitely takes some time to install and fine tune it, but well worth the time and effort.

 

Can you provide some more details on the window bracket you made? Would be much appreciated. Like how you attached the cables? And maybe how you cut the aluminum to fit around the window? (like where you made the cuts not what you cut with)

I ordered 5mm brake cables as well, did you use brake adjusters for the "cable stops"? I bought two end of line brake adjusters and two in line brake adjusters in hopes that will make final adjustments easier.

 

I'll see if I have any pictures of it, but I don't think I do. I used BenWa's measurements to cut for length. I then marked the window width onto the angle iron. I used a dremel to cut out the top flange just leaving a small piece on each end (like the BenWa bracket). I cut the opening short so I could use a file to make it fit snug. I also used a file to smooth out the dremel cut out. Once I got it to fit snug, I painted it black and used some peel and stick hobby felt to use on the window side of the bracket and to wrap the flanges with so there was no metal to glass contact. I drilled a hole in each flange, ran the cable through and secured it with a cable end stop. I have adjusters midway but haven't had to use them. The biggest thing is making sure the springs are completely compressed as you set it up. I've gone back a few times and compressed them as I fine tune it.

 

Thanks so much... I still am having a hard time understanding exactly how to connect the cables, but Im sure I will figure it out when the time comes. My parts should all be here by sunday so hoping to start on the project monday evening.

 

I'm toying around with this whole idea as well.

First I was considering a Breezer rear window hoping that I could remove the window section entirely and have a watertight seal with my Leer truck cap.

http://www.breezerwindows.com/breezer-options.html

http://breezerwindows.com/camper-shells.html

Come to find out NONE of the 2nd gen caps match up to the Tacoma window seal. Breeezer said that every cap on the market would leak for the 2nd gen Taco and they DO NOT recommend their window for the application I have in mind. (I was bummed). That would have been the perfect solution for the Furbabbies in the back of the truck.

They said customers have reported to have had the best luck using their window without the accordion seal, and the ARE Z series Caps with the ARE Compression Boot Option... Since I already have a Leer 100XQ Cap this is not feaseable...

Considering also modifying the cap to match the cap to match the rear window and using a simple off the shelf accordion seal.

$75 Slider to Shell Accordion Boot Rubber - 10 ft | Spring Clips are Facing The Opposite Direction

https://www.amazon.com/Slider-Shell-Accordion-Boot-Rubber/dp/B00J4UBJ66


Anyways, back on topic...

I picked up a POWR Lite sliding rear window from an old 80's era Nissan Pickup off Craigslist last week for $25.







Brand new in Box. Comes with everything (including a giant 80's era ugly window switch and box) to install in the vehicles it was manufactured for. Going to scrap the window and see if I can utilize the single cable actuator setup and use it on my Taco. Worse case it was a $25CDN investment (that's like $5US).


Also considering a linear actuator. http://www.yoycart.com/Product/534172384529/

Following for more ideas...