Sundown dual SD3/Hybrid Audio audio build Q & A

From what I can gather the mounting depth of the SD3-12 will work since that is only 5.25", but they state they want 1.0 cubic feet per sub and not sure if you have that in the box you currently have.

 

I can rebuild!!!! haha. Not that i want to though. And i think my boxes are around 0.6-0.7 cubic feet. I could play with the design a bit. I know i could modify the passenger side to fit a 12. Maybe run 1 10" and 1 12". I dont know. I like to play with shit and see what happens.

 

I'm all over the map too - someday's I want 8's to make it easy, but don't know if I will be happy overall so then I learn towards 10's. I want 12's, but space is such a commodity

 

no mixing sub sizes....

 

@ETXTacoma

 

Why do you say no mixing? Back in 2002 i had a friend running 2 12s and 2 10s in the back of an accura integra hatchback and it sounded good! There were sealed boxes, not sure how many amps though...

 

To be honest, there isn't really a point to it. Your way better off running all the same size, changing box type etc if you want a better sound or different sound.
There are numerous issues with running different size subs. They all have to run off their own amps, be in their own respective enclosures and also have their own band width to play within. I.e having a 10 and 12 play the same freq impacts the over all sound stage in a negative way.

The sub freq range is not really large enough 20-60/80hz to really run multi sized subs unless you do 15/18 vs 8/10s for mid bass
I can go more into it but this is the general concept and theory

 

I had this conversation with someone I trust with such matters recently - he runs the back of house for a busy local shop. He's also of the opinion that multiple sub types/sizes, etc will cause issues - mostly with phase. Seems to me with the right DSP in the right hands, you could make it work, but it may be a challenge. My proposal was 2 subs - a dedicated low-range subwoofer (20-45 Hz) and a more traditional subwoofer (~50 - 120ish). People use dedicated midbasses, so why not, right? Apparently he's tried this a number of times and the results have been disappointing.

 

Its possible to achieve in a home audio setup but not so much in an auto application unless you do those big Brazilian builds made for outdoor sound stages.
There is Nothing wrong with having a Super strong mid bass build 60hz+ played by 8/10 inch mid bass woofers with your Traditional subs playing sub 60hz if you have some serious bass! Like when i had 4 15s walled and playing music 154db. ( SQ is not a factor at this point ) but the punch from a big mid bass setup is unreal and required with a big low tuned box made for big bass. Your double kicks aren't there anymore so its needed BUT the reality of the situation is on an every day vanilla regular setup in 99% of these trucks there is ZERO point, not even in a hatch etc. If the application calls for it and there is actual reason to do so, I'm sure it can be done right but out of practicality wouldn't work really in our trucks.

As you said, serious processing would be required and phase will be a pain in the ass and you will be messing with your eq all day long on every genre

 

Im glad that people are trying the things i am thinking about! Haha. Thanks for the input!

Phase!!!! Didnt think about that.... I dont really have much room to play with speaker placement either. Oh well...

Ok so now i am looking at silver flutes....
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c.../silver-flute-w17rc38-04-ohm-6-1/2-wool-cone/
i would put these in the rear doors, these would be probably powered by my Factory HU but i would put some passive crossovers on them. I have a set that was not used as i went with a front stage setup.

Also they would be replacing some Hybrid Audio 6.5 convertible coaxial speakers. Would i be better off keeping the Hybrids, or would the silver flutes provide a bit better mid bass?

 

So I haven't done my door speakers yet so I have a couple questions. Did you sound deaden the doors? Did you need an adapter to fit the 6x9 and what do you mean by if you mount the subs the rattles will go away I have almost this same set up with different components and get rattles all the time it drives me nuts

 

Yes i dampened the shit out of my front doors, overkill for sure but i wanted to try to kill some road noise also. Ive seen many people just put some dampener around the speaker hole on the inside shell, and then a small piece on the outer shell. They seem to be happy with it...

You will need the door adapters, the factory speakers are almost molded into the mounts so you can not remove the factory speakers from the mounts. Taco Tunes has some "budget friendly" adapters made of plastic, I got mine from Mr Marv made of MDF.

If you mount the woofer box to the rear panel then the box will not rattle as much. HUGE difference!

 

OK I already have my sound deadner ready just have to install will need to order the speaker adapters and mount the subs. Did you just use some L brackets and screw into back of truck and box? @Mr Marv how can I order your adapters?

 

I custom make each set to ensure proper fitment so just send me a message with specs on the speakers you have (or a link to the owners manual) and I'll get a cost for you.

 

OK cool. I haven't bought my speakers yet was gunna message you and find out a few things I hate the box I have will pm you

 

No i just used self tapping screws, mounted each box to the floor and to the back wall.

 

Sweet will mount mine tonight hope that helps till Mr Marv gets ahold of my wallet

 

Not sure which HATs you have, so hard to say how that would work out. Here's this though - your factory head unit isn't going to give either of them enough to keep up with the rest of your system and certainly not for midbass. I have 75W available to each of the 5.5 inch flutes & am pretty sure I could feed them a good bit more. You're talking about a larger driver with maybe 1/10 that power. I think without a good DSP and at least one more channel with WAY more than head unit power it wouldn't be worth the effort. If I were to go down that road though, I'd probably use the Flutes for a bit more cone area (I'm thinking you either use a phase plug or coax mode with the HAT...both eat cone area). Then again, the HATs are installed and paid for.

Edit - guess I could have just read your first post. The Flutes will give you more cone area and much greater X-max. I'd totally go with the Flutes and offer them at least 100W each.

 

How did it work out for you?

 

Haha went back there to go do it and realized I'm going to need a bit of time to get it mounted haha thought it would be a 5 second job UT Tunstall out I gotta have some finesse so I'll get back at it tomorrow night and get them screwed in. Thanks for the tip though