Need me some lockers

im thinking of installing rear lockers. Seems are is the way to go but would rather electric lock.

 

Why would you prefer electric over arb? I looked at this mod for quite a while and considered the powertrax no slip but arb seemed like the best option. Cost is quite high but that's about the only downside. Good quality, usefulness of part time locking. Never found a similar electric option.

 

Mostly because of convenience,less hardware,and cost. But nothing really sticks. I just need to bite the bullet

 

I always looked at it in the sense that if you go airlocker, you pretty much get OBA as a bonus if you get a larger compressor. Plus my TRD elocker sometimes needs a bit of wheel movement to engage where the air lockers are locked the second you push the button.

 

Harrop makes an Eaton based E-locker four our trucks.

 

Do they make one for the front too?

 

Yep, but it requires case modification.

 

Interesting. Are the Eton E-lockers cost effective? Where can you get them? I didn't see them at ECGS on their page.

 

I got the TJM. Installing it in a couple weeks. I like the design of the actuator better. Less chance of leaky seals causing the diff to pressurize and blow oil everywhere.

 

With the ARB, you have more systems to fail. You have the electrical system, pneumatic system, and the mechanical part in the diff. That's a lot that could possibly go wrong. Just something else to look at when considering an ARB.

 

Link por favor?

 

http://www.tjmusa.com/en-oceania/pro-locker-air-activated-diff-lock

I'm still gonna use an ARB compressor. This locker is one of the options on ECGS.

 

Spot on.

 

Thank you. Why did you go wit this one over ARB? What was the cost for all of the components minus the compressor? Looking to get one later this year for the rear on my reg cab prerunner. Do they make models to fit all Tacoma diffs?

 

I like the simple design of the actuator better than ARB's. I've read some nasty things about the ARB o-rings failing and causing a lot of problems.

Cost was about $1400 with everything reassembled but I also regeared to 4.88's. Yes they make them for your truck.

 

^This^

True story - I'm at Easter Jeep Safari on a trail with the editor of Jeep magazine. The trail section was sketchy so I hit the ARB button and . . . . . nothing, no compressor buzzing, no reassuring hiss of air, just silence. Talk about embarrassing. Not wanting to hold things up I go for it with an open diff. Made it, but lost all the style points in the process. Turns out a fuse had blown. If I had a choice I'd go with an e-locker 10 times out of 10. ARB's have multiple failure points most of which failed on my Jeep, and after living with the e-locker in my Off-Road I can't see an advantages to the ARB.

 

To be quite honest, I'm thinking about just getting the TruTrac in the rear and calling it done. No manual engagement needed. Sure it's not a "true" locker but it doesn't require air or electric systems either. I'm pretty sure it can transfer nearly 100% of the torque to the non-slipping wheel. For those of us that aren't building a dedicated crawling rig it's likely the best option.

 

You have to buy it from Australia and ship it to ECGS or a diff build shop of your choice. Information scattered in this long thread: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/front-ifs-diff-locker.248258/

 

What about just swapping in a TRD OR complete rear axle that has the factory e-locker. Sounds easier and chfeaper. Unless you are regearing at the same time.

 

The link I posted was in response to @ItalynStylion's question about a front e-locker.