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I might be picking up a 98 Tacoma tomorrow... couple quick Q

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by kingtal0n, Jan 9, 2017.

  1. Jan 9, 2017 at 1:39 PM
    #1
    kingtal0n

    kingtal0n [OP] Member

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    I am going to look at a 98 tacoma today, 4cylinder ( I assume it has the 2RZ-FE) rwd, automatic, as a potential 2jz swap candidate.

    The 2RZ-FE engine has 200k miles. I am curious how long it would be expected to last, if the headgasket and timing chain is up to the challenge of possibly 220 or 250k in case I decide to drive it some first. And anything to look for specifically if you wish to share, thanks.

    Im going to check the oil/trans, look for leaks, test drive, look at frame rails, look for rust, listen to the engine, check the lights, and thats about all I can think of. Any other suggestions?

    Also, The price is 2200. Does it seem fair for so many miles?
     
  2. Jan 9, 2017 at 2:04 PM
    #2
    ekul310

    ekul310 Well-Known Member

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    I would look for maintenance records. That many miles without regular(preventative) maintenance could spell disaster. However, I believe these engines are fairly robust when maintained. If it has little rust, I don't think $2200 is crazy. Though I hear 4cyl/auto is a dog. Good luck!
     
  3. Jan 9, 2017 at 2:12 PM
    #3
    kingtal0n

    kingtal0n [OP] Member

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    I found another one with 94k miles, 1 owner for 2800. I think I might need to look at that one also since its got such low miles I will compare the two.

    Here in Florida it is rare to see rust on cars in general. Although I am picky- very picky and will be very careful inspecting the original paint for indications of damage/repair and so forth.
     
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  4. Jan 9, 2017 at 2:16 PM
    #4
    TooMuchToDo

    TooMuchToDo Well-Known Member

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    ...we'll get there.
    i'm not as familiar with that engine, but in general looking for wet spots around the engine. it's an older vehicle so don't expect perfection, but you don't want new glistening oil streaming from a valve cover either.

    pay attention to how it shifts, look for other evidence of how it has been cared for. well cared for on the inside usually implies they cared for the mechanical bits too.

    finally take a look at things like tire wear. That's a cost that can sneak up on you...and if the tires are shot, you can guess that they haven't been taking care of other things.

    plan to spend a bit on back-logged and preventative maintenance regardless.

    good luck!
     
  5. Jan 9, 2017 at 2:22 PM
    #5
    kingtal0n

    kingtal0n [OP] Member

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    hey thank you, ive never owned a truck before. what sort of drivetrain maintenance do you think I will need to perform? I have very basic tools but also own a 20-ton shop press because I recently rebuilt the trans in one of my cars, so I might be able to do some drivetrain work, even though I've never done any before. Do you think the "ball joints" or "axles" or other related parts "control arms" will need replacement? Maybe the shocks right? Any suggestion what to " do while I am in there " say, when changing shocks I might as well also change X Y and Z ?
     
  6. Jan 9, 2017 at 3:12 PM
    #6
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    The 2rz and 3rz consistently go over 300k+, we've even seen some at 900k+ miles. Just make sure to change the oil regularly.
     
  7. Jan 9, 2017 at 4:15 PM
    #7
    TooMuchToDo

    TooMuchToDo Well-Known Member

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    ...we'll get there.
    it's hard to tell exactly what type of maintenance might be in you future. control arms are probably only if your bushings are shot. sure, eventually you'll have to do suspension stuff. ball joints if they're going bad. the drivelines, along with the engines are very reliable. you'll probably need brakes sooner than most other things.

    using the resources on this website there isn't much you can't do yourself with a little patience. when you get into a job, look around on here, and ask if you want. Most people who've done something similar can help you with the "what else while i'm in there" question. it'll be different for every job, and how deep you want to go.

    let us know how the search goes. don't rush into anything you're not comfortable with
     
  8. Jan 9, 2017 at 5:52 PM
    #8
    kingtal0n

    kingtal0n [OP] Member

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    Ah! Speaking of brakes. Is there a cheap/easy big brake upgrade? On a 240sx you use the 300ZX brakes for a cheap, fast OEM upgrade to 4-piston calipers. I wonder if tacoma has the same sort of thing going for it? Another car I can use the big brakes from that bolt right on? I will research of course... just thought I would ask here because I am excited about it.

    Also another curious question... I wish to remove the core support to make the engine install simple. I want to make it "removable" you know, bolt in and bolt out when necessary. That way I can swap engines when I need to. I wonder how this is done, as I have never done it? can anybody shine some light here... ?! Exciting!
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2017
  9. Jan 9, 2017 at 6:40 PM
    #9
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    Okay, I'll admit it, I ain't too proud to admit it..... I got lost with the 'remove the core support' or make it 'removable'. Help a non-hip, not up to date, dude understand?
     
  10. Jan 9, 2017 at 7:03 PM
    #10
    kingtal0n

    kingtal0n [OP] Member

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    Cars have a part called a "core support" and that generally holds the radiator/condenser (which are "cores" i guess? like when you say intercooler "core" it is the center piece of temperature transfer from the various air/liquids of the vehicle through the respective "cores" to the atmosphere). The core support is in the way if you are trying to put an engine into a car, so often you have to go up and over the core support when installing the engine. Some engines will not fit easily, or at all, this way (I doubt I can lift a 2jz-gte over the core support of a tacaoma to install it) and all of the swap pictures I've seen have their respective core supports removed so the engine can be easily slid into the vehicle without having to lift it very far off the ground. The core support is probably welded into the chassis, but seeing how many I have with it removed (and the fact you can buy a core support to replace yours in the event of an accident ) I am guessing that it is fairly easy to remove. However , I have never done it, so I was looking for some confirmation that this was in fact an easy straightforward process, as well as making it "removable" (basically making it easy to bolt in, and un-bolt, quickly. Like a race car. So I can remove the engine quickly and install a new one without delay, instead of having to re-weld it).
     
  11. Jan 9, 2017 at 8:06 PM
    #11
    DrZ

    DrZ Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like reasonable prices. Around the Phoenix area it's hard to find Tacomas for less than $3000 unless they have 300k miles on them, body damage or are the very base model. Even then they are sold immediately. Random people come to the door every month asking to buy the Tacoma, so they are in demand around here.

    There are cases of blown head gaskets on this forum, but the engines are reliable if the coolant and oil has been changed regularly. At 200k miles, you'd want to check the valve clearances. Several cases of burnt valves on this forum from the exhaust clearances getting too tight.
     
  12. Jan 9, 2017 at 8:41 PM
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    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    Oh the radiator support? Don't know why that didn't cross my mind. Prolly cause it's 4 bolts and easily removable. I thought it must've been a newish term I hadn't picked up on or something. Anyways, yeah it comes out easily.
     
  13. Jan 9, 2017 at 8:57 PM
    #13
    kingtal0n

    kingtal0n [OP] Member

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    Are you telling me that I can take out 4 bolts and the entire front end of the tacoma will come off, leaving an enormous empty space for me to slide an engine into the bay? that sounds too good to be true!! obviously I mean after removing the bumper and lights and all that... but you can confirm this? yes? !
     
  14. Jan 9, 2017 at 10:19 PM
    #14
    tan4x4

    tan4x4 Well-Known Member

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    Not sure about the 5-lug Tacomas, but the 6-luggers already have 4-piston calipers, at least my '99 did.

    That aside, a common upgrade is to swap over brakes from a '04-'06 Tundra. Basically, a bolt-on with some tweeking. I just completed the upgrade on my rig. Lots of write-ups on this forum.
     
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  15. Jan 9, 2017 at 11:49 PM
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    kingtal0n

    kingtal0n [OP] Member

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    I found someone whos done it, and thinking the same thing I am,


    Like this guy says,

    http://www.customtacos.com/forum/1803776-post60.html

    "So at this point I am waiting for the Oiolpan to arrive so I can then mount the engine and make the center support/crossmember removeable for engine/trans R&R in the future..."

    See how he is talking about making it removable, as if it was not originally.
     
  16. Jan 10, 2017 at 6:28 AM
    #16
    DrZ

    DrZ Well-Known Member

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    Usually the core support is listed as a separate part. It is bolted on but also spot welded at a few points. I'm not 100% sure on Tacomas. So, I guess once you free up those welded points you could have it just be held on by the bolts.
     
  17. Jan 10, 2017 at 11:48 AM
    #17
    3rYODA

    3rYODA Don’t sell to me, I don’t pay.

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    98k miles?!?! Go buy it that's a steal
     
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  18. Jan 10, 2017 at 11:51 AM
    #18
    kingtal0n

    kingtal0n [OP] Member

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    Here it is,

    http://miami.craigslist.org/brw/cto/5937973741.html

    I called and asked would he go 2800. He said yes to that. But he is a dealer so they need to also get $180 for a tag transfer there (the vehicle was purchase at auction). He would not go any lower so I told him nevermind, I need to pass. Reason is: I am planning a motor swap so the mileage of the engine is much less concern.

    Instead, I found a local one even closer with 200k for $1850 I am picking it up tonight. 4-cylinder 2WD looks like a very light truck. I hope it weighs around 2800-2900lbs. I will probably go for LSx swap (I find those engines much cheaper around here than 2jz) but a couple weeks will tell for sure.
     
  19. Jan 10, 2017 at 6:17 PM
    #19
    kingtal0n

    kingtal0n [OP] Member

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    I got it tonight. Just got home with it. The "first" thing I need to do is address the suspension so that the truck is stable at speeds > 120mph. I notice that it "feels like a truck" kind of high and scary at higher speeds. Do you guys think that just dropping it will be enough to keep it safe on the highways or is there something very specific I need to do for it to be safe at higher speeds...
     
  20. Jan 10, 2017 at 6:21 PM
    #20
    TooMuchToDo

    TooMuchToDo Well-Known Member

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    ...we'll get there.
    ...120mph?

    Assuming that's a typo what doesn't feel stable? Wobble, wandering, tippy?

    Assuming it's not a typo, we gotta talk about expectations...
     

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