Official Tennessee Thread

I got that part. Elaborate. Reason I ask is do you not want to do the install yourself? Do you not have tools? Do you not know what you're doing? Do you not have time? Etc ..... or do you not know you can order complete 3rd members?

 

seeing weather prediction for the week, really glad i didn't bother going out in the cold to install the front diff bushing.

If any of you run that ECGS bushing, do you use Lucas 85w-140 nonsynthetic like they suggest or did you use some other oil?

 

I haven't done anything with that area of the truck, except for lubricating the driveshaft and swapping CVs. I don't have a garage to work on the truck in. I'm not sure about swapping 3rd members. What about for the front diff?

 

I just ran the stuff at the auto parts store regular stinky gear 710 . Maybe next change I will change it with Lucas.

 

I upgraded to a 60" high-lift trying to figure out how to mount it. Having trouble getting it to fit inside the bed because of my toolbox. Anyone have suggestions? What do y'all think of this idea?

 

I don't like it. Definitely rather have it inboard, but that's just me.

 

Don't know if I'm going to make it to LBL or not, but I think we could probably work something out!

 

I don't think a 60" will fit inside the bed on a short bed truck. What's the overall length of the jack?

 

This. Matt is DCLB.

 

I suppose my truck is pushing me to make another upgrade. Since installing my lift I have noticed a gradual increase in "bumping" from the front end. It only happens when driving over small bumps, but sounds like a bushing or something is loose. Having not really inspected it further, my assumption is because I didn't install a new UCA it could be that one or more of the bushings have worn out.

I suppose I need to upgrade the UCA's anyhow. Could something else be the culprit too? How easy/difficult is the UCA install?

 

Taking the base off, it's 58".

I tried putting it on the right side, but it wouldn't fit with the toolbox. The mounts put it to far from the side to get the front past the toolbox. Otherwise the length would just fit.

This is what I've done for now, we'll see how it works.

 

It's time consuming, but not overly difficult.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-install-hi-lift-mounts-in-bed.356155/

 

DCLB

 

^^^^^^true west side story

 

If you've pulled cv's, you can pull the diff. All that's holding it in is the cv's, front driveshaft and the diff mounts. I'd say the cv's take the longest time. There's a great writeup on here of swapping the front. I did mine but myself in my driveway in 3 hours. The rear is retard easy. Last time I pulled it was the night before a LBL trip and I had it out and back in the truck in under an hour. I bet, with a little help from us, you can swap the 3rds no problem, save some money and learn something at the same time.

 

Uca install is super easy. 1 long bolt goes through the shock tower and the arm and 1 bolt holds the arm to the spindle. May be the easiest front suspension part to change on the truck.

How much lift do you have? Is this on adjustable coilovers?

 

Ok guys, if they total my truck out and they want too much to buy it back, i'm gonna need some OEM parts. If this happens i will be having some good deals on a lot of my upgrades for your OEM plus a little cash. ie. Doug Thorley headers, Flomaster with y pipe, all pro expedition leaf pack, powertrax rear locker, maybe my IOCN coilovers, maybe my UCAs (can't remember the brand) powder coated trailgear rocksliders (welded on will have to be cut off) .and some other stuff i can't think of at the moment.

Also! I need a factory radio, and factory wheels (don't care about condition cheeper the better)

PM me if you are interested when the time comes.

 

I call dibs on the locker.

But I have a factory set of uppers you can have If you want them.

 

They are adjustable, I believe from 1"-3.5". I think I have them set somewhere around 2.5" now.