Manual transmission Fan Club and BS thread (All Generations Welcome)

Really happy you are enjoying the

$34 XT-M5-QS Full Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid - 1 Quart , black

XT-M5-QS. I bought 3 quarts after hearing @Clearwater Bill talk it up. Going to put it in shortly. The clutch is so damn mushy when the temps are low right now.

 

I wonder if low viscosity brake fluid would fix the mushy low temp clutch pedal? Looks like several companies make it, labeled "LV"

$16 Genuine Ford Fluid PM-20 DOT-4 LV High Performance Motor Vehicle Brake Fluid - 16 oz.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford...96&sr=8-2&keywords=brake+fluid++low+viscosity

 

I don't think it is a fluid issue I think it is the rubber boots being stiff from the cold.

 

Hey all! About to take delivery on a 2017 off road in the next few weeks and have been reading up on maintenanc, common issues, and things to look out for. I understand that the Automatic folks are seeing low fluid levels in their trans and differential fluids. Has anyone with a third gen experienced this? I'm considering having the dealership "double check" all fluid levels when I go to pick up just to ease some anxiety with the infamous low fluid from production.

 

After driving my MT around a bit I noticed the clutch doesnt seem to always disengage when I am at higher RPMs, almost like the engine and flywheel dont dissconect unless I let off the gas a fraction of a second before shifting. Anyone else?

I also notice that it seems as though the drive by wire or maybe the mapping is keeping the truck from releasing the power that should be available. If I downshift into the range of 3k rpms or more I should be right into the meat of the power but its almost like the truck says "nope, you cant have all that power" and it adds the power on as if it was 2k rpm. I only have 2000 miles on the truck and still learning to figure this one out but the 2 things that seem to stick out in my mind.

 

I notice these things as well.

I've found that the truck just doesn't like to be driven and shifted quickly. I generally let the gas pedal out, wait a second until the RPM hang starts to go down, and then I shift. I just wind it out a bit, to like 3-4k RPM between shifts and this seems to work out well for me.

It's a little quirky to be sure, but if you learn how and when the truck drives it's best and just drive within those limitations, it is actually quite a nice engine/tranny combo.

 

First topic - I bet you are mistaken about clutch engaged or disengaged. Is your real observation that the RPMS stay high after you push in the clutch? If so, this is normal and mandated by the EPA for emissions. Often called throttle hang or RPM hang. Work around it to let up on the accelerator just a tiny bit sooner. I believe it is a scheme to smooth out uneven throttle inputs by some moronic drivers (the ones that cant keep a smooth and steady throttle position).

Second topic- Common complaint for DBW throttles. In a traditional throttle, at low to mid RPM, nearly all the available engine power occurs in the 1st half of the pedal stroke. This is due to the fact that the engine simply cant suck any more air in, even if you push the pedal to the floor. On a DBW throttle, manufacturers sometimes map the throttle such that, at any RPM, the entire pedal stroke is used to control the power. Thus, you have to apply more "throttle" in order to get the power. My Mazda cx5 was the same way, and people complained. The power was there, but took more accelerator pedal movement than people are use to. Its a paradigm shift that people need to get use too. Of course, there is also other electronic business going on in the engine, such as wide angle VVT (Atkinson) control that might give the sensation of sluggish or uneven power delivery.

 

have not heard of any of those common issues affecting the MT's.

for confidence check your own fluids.

 

i agree with pjensen that you are probably experiencing throttle hang. if so, it's no big deal, you'll get used to it.

as for the power complaint... join the club, it's a big one. you should look into some technical info on this motor. it has dual fuel injection, port injection low rpm and direct injection at higher rpm starting around 3500rpm or so. the port style is low hp, moderate torque, and relatively more efficient. the direct injection brings the hp and horrible mpg. the issue we have is driveability with a power surge right where you'd shift.

in other words this is by design. speaking for myself I'm waiting hopefully for an ECU tune since it can fix at least some of that, maybe all. i would be willing to lose more mpg for it.

another option to consider is a Pedal Commander or Sprint Booster to enhance the throttle. it may help with driveability for the MT's for some drivers, but it won't be a tune, so I'm still hoping for that one day soon.

 

Ok, sounds like RPM hang then. Like you mentioned if you step off the gas a micro second before pushing in the 3rd pedal it doesn't do it so I figured it was sticking because I wasn't breaking the connection somehow. First few times I felt like I was driving my first manual transmission. My transmission has smoothed out and shifts so much better than it did when new, pretty happy about that.

The second one I am describing was me at full throttle, passing someone up hill and finding out I needed a lower gear, when I got into 3rd I was 5-6k rpm into 2nd gear mashed hard and sweating it a little because I don't want to be the guy who passes someone and cutting them off afterwards. I try to make clean passes and leave them behind. Like I mentioned, I am still trying to figure this engine and tranny out but I swear the limited in auto I test drove had more get up and go.

 

You had better hope that the flywheel doesn't disconnect as it is bolted to the engine block.

 

I have a 2013 MT Baja access cab, and love it. I was looking at the 2017s because of some of the bells and whistles like heated seats and navigation, but to get a MT now you can only get it in crew cabs, and my mountain bikes won't fit in the 5 foot back without removing the wheels each time, so no go. Why Americans prefer automatics is vexing to me. Maybe just laziness.

 

Manual is available in the access cab sport.

 

So I brought this issue up last year in this post. Without taking delivery of one myself yet, I suspect the throttle hang is due to the emission-saving Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve. Once I get my 7545(MT), I'll experiment with a similar tactic of using copper pipe caps shoved into the EGR intake vacuum hose modified with various-sized conic properties in order to disrupt the isentropic flow of the exhaust gas being sucked back into the intake manifold, while still passing emissions. Hopefully the smart guys on here will coach me along once we get started?

 

I'm not one of the smart guys but I would love to see how it turns out!

 

similar to what was mentioned in your other thread, that's some kind of project to alter rev hang... or something. not sure what the deal is but have fun with that. the rev hang isn't any kind of problem for me. i just want the DI coming on earlier in the rev range for more response and power down low where i use it.

 

Anyone found an alternative to the factory shift boot?

 

Redline makes nice ones for $50

 

yep. http://www.redlinegoods.com/Tacoma16shiftboot.php

 

I'm not seeing a manual version?