Official Tennessee Thread

While adjusting the coil-overs I noticed a bit of play in my CV joints on the differential side. Should these be completely stiff or is a little play acceptable? That's the only thing I could find that appeared to have any play in it on the front end.

I also lowered my tire pressure. Discount Tire had them all at 38psi. I aired them down to 31-31psi.

 

My last 3 trucks have all had play there, so I assume it's normal. Someone else can confirm or tell you I'm full of shit. Ha ha.

 

No problem, any time.

There has to be some play. Other wise every time the suspension compressed and extended you would pull the cv out of the diff or break it. The inner cup of the cv is only held on to the shaft by the cv boot. If you remove the boot, you will see at the end of the axle shaft are 3 studs in a triangle position that protrude outward towards the cup. On these studs are 3 ring style bearings that slide into grooves inside the cup. As the suspension compresses and extends, the shaft slides on these bearings in and out of the cup. The boot is designed with those ribs to extend and retract like a xylophone to allow the shaft to slide back and forth and not rip the boot. The boots only purpose it to hold grease to keep those bearings lubricated.

Yes it's normal and yes, you're full of shit

 

Thank you for the additional explanation. I'm still learning how to tinker, work, and do maintenance on my own truck, so apologies for the ignorance on my end.

I'm really hoping lower the coil over a bit solves the problem.

Additional question: Since the shock/coilover was designed to be used in a range of 1-3.5", would adding the aftermarket UCA give me back the capability of expanding the coil over and it not bottoming out? That seems like a question with an obvious answer, but just want to make sure, so that when I do add a new UCA I'll know that I can crank it back up.

 

The main purpose of an aftermarket uca is to get the alignment back where it needs to be.

 

I don't want your apology for ignornance. You shouldn't be sorry everytime you learn something. Haha

The coilover fully extends and bottoms out internally. The pic I posted is the inside of your coilover. On the right side under the compression shim stack is the "top out washer". On the left side is the "bearing cap" (black ring) that screws into the "bearing housing" (silver piston looking piece). When the coilover fully extends, the bearing housing meets the top out washer and makes that sound. Now you are kinda right in thinking it should go away by lowering the coilover because you are putting the bearing housing in a more center spot in the travel range thus making it less likely for the coilover to top out over small speed bumps but ultimately you didn't take away the opportunity for it to top out and make that sound.

 

Much better.......

 

Accordion...

 

Just landed in Vegas, driving to Death Valley tonight.

 

Lol

 

Who knows about this "geo caching" stuff?

I found a random water tight box tied to a tree in the middle of the woods today at the lake. It said "official gel cache" on it. I thought I had found something cool. I open it up and there is a piece of paper with coordinates and people's names who had found it before.

What? No treasure? Wtf?

I wrote "this game sucks" and put it back.

 

Would have been handy to have a Polaroid dick pic. ...better add that to my EAF list

 

I think you understand it perfectly

 

I actually have a government issued Polaroid camera from waayyyy back. Still works. Might have to go visit that box again.

 

Do iiiiiittttt!

 

David! Good to SEE you!

 

Oh ....... and fuck!

 

In what?

 

Update: Apparently lowering the coil-over just a bit did the trick. Not sure exact measurements, but I left about an inch to the threads on the top of the shock.

I owe you a 6 pack, or some moonshine, or . . . well, I previously lived in Colorado, so there's that. You plan to attend the LBL Meet?