2016 BBP audio build

I checked the wiring last night and indeed I had the green and green/black crossed at the LC7. I am going to do more testing to see if the subs sound better now on output 2 or 3 compared to output 1 (main output).

Thanks for the help everyone

 

That's great news that you found your issue!! now the sub output should work.

 

I haven't tested it yet, but I will this weekend. Today I made a mounting plate for the LC7 and my power and ground distribution blocks

 

Looks like mine!! nice man!

 

Looks good!

 

You've been such an inspiration to so many people @Aw9d. Haha

 

Just the thread I've been looking for. I'll have to dig through this later on. Been to 3 local shops and have gotten absolutely zero help.

 

Let me know if you have any questions man. Got about 60 hours into mine to get it to the point it's at now.

 

I'm sure I'll have a few. I currently have a Kicker Comp RT 12" and a 600.1 Kicker amp that I'm waiting to put into the truck. Still deciding on door speakers however. I want everything to match (I.e. Kicker) but I listened to a pair of comparable Polk speakers and the sounded better to my ears.

 

I have all kicker speakers in my truck. We are not too far away from each other if you want to meet up to hear them. We would just have to figure out a good time.

 

I'll take you up on that.

 

Update:
I ended up ordering

$150 JBL GTO938 JBL GTO939 GTO Series 6x9" 300W 3 Way Black Car Coaxial Audio Speakers Stereo

JBL GTO938 6x9's for the fronts and JBL GTO638's for the rear doors. I also added fast rings to the front door speakers and I must say I am really impressed. I am pushing 75w rms to each door (jbl states they are 2 ohm drivers, but I have not verified this) from a Rockford Fosgate R600X5.

I have also played with the LC7 a lot more and I have wired it back to how it is supposed to be wired (fronts, rears and subs) and I think I got it sounding better. For awhile there I had the front output going into rca Y adapters to push the front door speakers and subs off that because I felt that there was more bass, but since I have put the subs back onto the 3rd channel output from the LC7.

I am super happy with the door speakers, but I am so so on the subs. I just feel they should be much louder, but I cannot tell if it is the box I made, the subs themselves or the acoustics of the truck. I'm just going to take a break from it for now lol

 

Not sure if you've had an aftermarket stereo installed before, but subs definitely have a break in period. Mine took a month or so to really sound sweet. Congrats on the new system.

 

I have had my new subs in for since the beginning of December. I knew there was a break in time, I did not know that it was a month though.

 

I feel ya know the hours. With tuning I'm around 100+hrs.

 

Good call - hour wise no clue lol. I'll just be patient

 

It never ends. I have a civic that's at least 200+ hours

 

After listening to some speakers and talking to some local shops this is where I landed.

JL C2-690TX (front)
JL C2-650 (rear)
JL RD400.4 (speakers)
Kicker Comp RT12
Kicker CXA600.1 (sub)
LC7I

What do you guys think?

 

I'm thinking I should order some Kickers and give them a try and see if they sound better than the Diamonds I have. Maybe in a couple months I will do that

 

Hey y'all,

Jumping in with a pretty simple build here, and wanted to thank everyone for all the great info here.

Basic goals...
- looking for fuller and slightly louder tunes in my work truck. Because I'm a cheapskate, I'm trying to spend as little as possible while making it good enough that I only have to do the job once.

Gritty details...
- keeping the non-nav non-Jbl HU in my 2014 AC
- leaving factory harnesses totally intact, so I can yank stuff out if I want to go back to stock. This means running door speaker wires from the amp back to the HU, which means that the natural spot for my door speaker crossovers is inside the door, which doesn't seem ideal... maybe gotta think about this one some more. (As a reminder, my 2nd gen tweeters are in the door, not the dash.)
- door speaks: Polk Audio MM6501 6.5-Inch components
- amp: Polk Audio 4 Channel Amplifier - PAD4000.4
- LOC: originally bought total cheapy crap ones, until this and other threads convinced me to go to an AudioControl LC6i. Can't find anywhere in the passenger footwell to mount it, so either I'm gonna get lucky and discover a ton of space behind the HU (unlikely!), or stick it under one of the seats. I think I'm going to use the front/rear fade on the HU to control the balance between the doors and the sub, but I suspect that I might end up running an external knob in the future
- sub: Polk Audio MM840, with a yet-to-be built sealed box that'll sit between the jump seats and fire down. Not looking for massive thump so much as a fill-in. When it gets built, I'll bring drawings and pics
- I might regret this, but I have no plans for deadening mat
- that's the big part of the list, except for all the wires, harness adapters, speaker adapter plates, etc. fwiw, I used plain old 16awg speaker wire (for the speakers -- not the amp power) that I had kicking around... I feel like I should have been more patient and waited for speedwire.

Progress to date...
I've got almost all my parts waiting (last thing arriving is

$18 metra 72-8104 speaker wire adapters for select toyota vehicles - 4 total adapters

metra 72-8104 speaker harnesses). I've mostly soldered up the harnesses to/from the HU... the wires run long, so will get shortened as needed, and I want to add the remote turn on wire, as I've read that the GTO function on the LC6i may or may not be perfect.

Wish me luck, brothers! And if you have comments or see any holes in my cunning plan, I'm listening.