Brice's NA V6 Build

How much boost are you at right now? Do you have a dunk sheet? I might have missed it if u posted it before.

BTW it's extremely user friendly. All changes in real time. Good interface. Couldn't want anything more from a piggyback. Plus a plethora of advice on various forums because it's such a widely used unit.

 

Yup pretty much, it's pretty user friendly. I learned what everything ment over on a Honda forum and it all carries over pretty much. I'm far from being done tuning lol. After you get the general stuff squared away then it's really in the fine tuning from what I'm finding out. But it's not hard, just tedious

 

10psi at the moment.

Dunk sheet? I have no clue what that is...

 

Made it home from @Torspd's without to many issues

He helped me figure out how to make the o2 table and AUX gauge read in AFR vs offset voltage and units. Unfortunately the AFR thing on the o2 table didn't really work, I'm not sure why and I'll have more time tomorrow/later today to figure it out, but for now I'm glad the voltage to AFR thing has been set up

We also sorta determined that the higher rpm bucking was probably the AEM removing waaay to much timing on its self generated map.

I think my plan is to reload the tune I had on it when I drove over there, transfer over the voltage to AFR values and experiment with tuning via AFR values vs offset voltage. I also plan on doing some logs to further see what's going on. Torspd also recommend that I view the knock sensors in some fashion since knock happens way before you can audibly hear it. With that I'm gonna see if the AEM can log knock sensor stuff, cause if it can it'll make tuning ignition easier. If it cant I'll just have to wire in some light or something.

Oh and thanks again for the spaghetti Torspd

 

Time for me to fiddle with my tuning today as well.

 

Timing map is 0 by default. The bucking is probably a bad connection with the crank sensor which the fic6 is notorious for and is the reason Gadget does not recommend it for the 5vz or it's your spark plugs. Even if you've finally upgraded the plugs to a set capable of boost you still need to gap them. I would start at 32.

There shouldn't be any "probably" with whether the timing map is the culplrit, you have direct access to it. Just open it, if it has really large negative values then yes it is removing too much timing. At 10 psi so long as your afrs are rich of 12.5 you shouldn't have any detonation issues the stock ecu can't compensate for. I.e. You should be fine for at least a base tune without using the ignition offset at all.

 

Idk how I could have a bad connection with the crank sensor. It has a 2.2k resistor between the signal lines and everything is soldered together, so beyond that idk what I could do to fix it if that was my issue.

I'm still messing around with timing too so we'll see what that changes. And I said probably because I haven't had a chance to test it.

 

I pulled the bridge resistor and changed to a better plug all in one swoop so I can't say which did it if not both but I was dealing with a similar issue early on. Hope you get it figured out man I know how frustrating it can be.

You'll kick yourself in the face when you realize how much of a difference a properly gapped $12 set of plugs can make.

 

You wired the FIC your self?

 

yes

 

Did a pretty stand up job, I'd say.

 

How did you find where to put what? I looked online for a couple days trying to find an ecu schematic

 

There's a helpful thread here somewhere but you basically need to find the pinpouts of your ecu and start cuttin'.

http://www.well.com/user/mosk/images/Early_Tacoma_ECUs_v1.pdf

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-aem-f-ic-6-install-tuning-and-help-thread.381830/

^^^Follow the guides wiring scheme using an ecu pinout for your year truck. (Clays link) You can also find the original post with the link to all 1st gen Tacoma ecu pinouts on a 4runner forum I believe, where the guy gave the info out as a gift to everyone who might need it. (Us and many others lol)

But I thought you already had an aem installed?

 

Yotatech, not a 4runner forum

http://www.yotatech.com/f160/1995-5-2004-tacoma-t-vs-m-t-ecu-pinouts-215718/

OG thread^

 

Get any forward progress?

 

Lol in all honesty not quite. I woke up at 11 then sat around for a bit, changed the oil in a work truck (7.3), then changed my oil with 5w-40, got "lunch" changed my rear diff fluid (which was surprisingly clearish) and now I'm eating dinner, but I may go out there and tune it some after I eat

I'm very curious, now that we got that AFR table working as to how it relates to the maps... or in other words what AFR values do I need to put there in order to get 14.7 for instance, since plugging 14.7 in didn't really work out to 14.7 lol...

 

It might just be that you add a little here or there. Without looking at the instructions though, I am just guessing.

 

typically, each point in a fi table is a point in a afr reading, if you are @ 14.9 on a afr gauge, going +2 will put you 14.7, if you need 12.0 go +29 etc.. that's the industry standard.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZNDCT9UjQQ&t=433s

Have you not watched this video yet? It seems to be pretty explicitly laid out.