Home Improvement Today?

How could I not? Look at my spare bedroom door.

 

The latch on my Emtek hardware doesn't project as far out

 

Ok...first...your reveal is bigger...second how many tick marks did you find?...third ....for some reason..mine is bigger than yours

 

The reveal is 3/16 , none

 

Lol.. that photo is deceiving then.

 

Here is my special order strike plates...or wrongly ordered doors...I am totally wiling to admit I fuck up.

 

Fair enough...lol...fucking carpenters...if we get into 32nd's I am walking

 

I will say you do good work...unfortunately years ago you didn't think I could build a new house for 150 grand...that was my budget and I stuck to it. I had several friends doubt my my goals too. After what I have planned this spring, I think you will see what I was planning. ..My Nemesis

 

wut

 

Lol..just rambling

 

I did. Squirrels had a burrow under the old shed, so I used the carbon monoxide smoke trick and filled it in.

 

The stock thickness of your trim may also be an issue.

 

Yeah, I thought about that...but that particular door I made the jamb. I think it's the hardware, like OZ said. Sorry the trim is 3/4 thick so maybe...at first I thought you meant the jamb.

 

...first thing is how rigid/sturdy is the substrate/subfloor?.. i'm assuming this is a subfloor over a basement, rather than a slab?

...second, assuming you're not going to remove a whole lot of grout, ...you can use a "grout removal brush", ...looks kinda like a toothbrush and has replaceable diamond blades... i think you can get these at a home center and certainly a tile vendor... you could probably use some kind of power grinder tool (dremel, etc.), but i'd advise against it because it would create a lot of bad dust (silica, etc.) and probably would be difficult to avoid damaging the edges of the surrounding tile?...

...third, when grouting, mix buy the "grout additive mixture" and mix the recommended amount into the bucket when you're mixing up the grout... the "additive" supposedly makes the grout stronger... another tip when grouting, after applying the grout and tooling/sponging off the access, try spritzing, or wiping w/ damp cloth, the grout once a day for a few days - supposedly adding moisture as it cures results in stronger grout..

 

Just got done installing iPad holder in new half bath.

 

It's over the crawl space, and there is a lot of space between it and the floor. We didn't realize how soft the area was when we bought it, and didn't think anything of the tile/grout until it started giving us problems. Now, it is getting worse along the entire kitchen instead of just heavy traffic areas.

Thanks for the tips! I'll make sure to look for it when I get started on that part of the project

 

Picked up our post bases from my fabricator today , knife plate style on the right is for the wood posts and the left style gets cast into concrete pillars that will then have 3" steel columns field welded to them

 

If you have easy access to the underside of the floor framing , add a support along the mid span of the joists

 

...sounds like a substrate problem, ...the decking or the floor joists perhaps... might be worth considering removing the failing tile floor, and assessing the substrate/joists... tile can't really take much in terms of deflection, or flexation, ...so structural rigidity of the joist spans underneath is critical... you can stiffen the subfloor by screwing down a second layer of 1/2" or "3/4" plywood, making sure you overlap the seams in the existing subfloor... otherwise, the joist spans underneath lack sufficient stiffness... if the spans/stiffness is the issue, and unable or infeasible to remedy, you might consider going w/ flooring other than tile like wood or something?..