Deeezy's Locked Sport Grocery Getter Build

I got the results of the latest oil sample from my truck back today. I was curious if there would be any changes from the last analysis since I pounded the crap out of the truck and had it bouncing off the rev limiter for quite a while on the last wheeling trip. Well, it's just as good or better than the last oil change. This means, it's okay to bounce off the rev limiter once in a while.

 

I bounce mine off the limiter sometimes

 

I flushed the old steering fluid out and replaced with some full syn Valvoline Max Life Dex2/3 (was the cheapest option because sale).
The old factory fluid didn't look too bad until I put it in a cup.



I re-did the factory ground wire that grounds to the driver's side fender/frame with some 1/0. And also finished strapping/securing all of the main battery wires going to the bed.



I will be changing the 250A fuse on the main positive battery wire to a 500A ANL fuse in prep for a winch I have inbound. Usually the winch power isn't fused but I want to have it there because the wire run is so long to the bed. If that fuse ever blows while winching, I can just bypass it and run straight to the battery in an emergency.

 

My power steering fluid must have been bad because the truck drives/steers a lot better now. I didn't notice the steering getting bad because it was gradual. The truck holds itself in a staight line on the freeway now. The new fluid got rid of some "play" in the steering when at cruising speed. It also got rid of any whining sounds from the rack.

 

What's the maintenance interval for powersteering fluids?

 

To tell you the truth, I don't know. I figured I'd change mine because the 35's put such a strain on the rack and everything. It's a good thing this tightened the steering up, because I was about to spend some money on tie rod ends and stuff.
My truck has about 30,000 uncorrected miles on it.

 

Best just to look at the fluid, its going to be dependent on how you drive the truck and how hard it gets used.

 

I know it's uncorrected miles, but 30k is damn good for a 2013. Mines is a 2015 and I'm almost at 40k.

 

Yeah will have to do that during the trucks 40k service interval

 

I made my final payment for this truck today. Finally!!

 

Congrats!!!

 

That's the first mod we all should have made!

 

I got the ANL fuse holder installed in prep for the inbound winch. I drilled and tapped the battery tray and just bolted it right on the top of the battery.




Made a short 1/0 jumper straight to the battery from the fuse and covered the fuse posts with Blue Sea rubber covers.


Again, this fuse is just there to be the weak link in the wire run to protect the main positive wire, from the battery in the bed to the engine bay, just incase of a short to ground, like in an accident or something. It's fused at 500A right now to be able to run the winch at it's full current draw. It's still less than the battery's CCA, which is 830A, but better safe than sorry.


I also changed the 6 speed transmission fluid. I forgot how long it was since I last changed it and didn't really notice how notchy the shifting got until after I changed it. Redline MT90 smoothed out the notchyness again. The last change was when the truck was new, so the old MT90 had about maybe 26000 miles on it.

I greased the front driveshaft too and noticed that a driveshaft bolt was missing! I don't know how that happened because I used locktite on all the bolts. Maybe I missed one and it backed out? Anyway, the rest were still torqued to spec, so I used a temporary 7/16" x 1" grade 8 bolt until I can get to the dealership and pick up a genuine driveshaft bolt.

 

Why not use one of these for the winch? Only turn it to on when you need to run the winch....instead of having a live wire go all the way to the front.

 

That live wire is the main positive wire for my relocated battery. The winch wire will not be going to the bed.

 

If I use that disconnect on the main positive battery wire, how am I going to start the truck? It needs to be live all the time.

I can add that disconnect on the winch wire in the engine bay, but when using the winch, it still will be drawing current through that main positive wire to the relocated battery. @anthony250f

I was going to eventually use the Warn winch solenoid disconnect and wire that to a switch in the cab.

 

Ah didn't realize it wasn't going to the bed... When I got a winch it was really so fusing to figure out a way to get power safely. I was going to run the winch cable all the way to the bed.

 

If anyone ever needs to buy some driveshaft bolts, here are the PN #'s for Toyota hardware:

Bolt: 90105-A0075

Nut: 90178-A0045

Washers: 90201-11013

 

Hey Dana how much was the total for front and rear arb locker/gearing from ecgs all assembled?

 

Iirc, it was about $3400 shipped. That price is after you get the $800 core charge back, after they receive your stock diffs. So, total up front is about $4200.