3.4L TRD Supercharger rebuild

Pretty sure it will seem wet, but you should be good to go. The heat of the engine will seal it if it isn't completely dry. Also make sure you torque and tighten in the recommended star pattern.

 

Cool thanks!

 

Sooooooo, what happens when the old leaky seal won't come out?!

 

Nevermind, got it!

 

I have some potential great news for anyone with a 1st gen SC. I was doing some research and found that Pontiac used a similar M62 supercharger back in 92-95. So I went to ebay and found a used SC and placed my order. I bought used as it was $220 shipped to my place, but you can find completely remanufactured ones for $700 all over the place ($500 + $200 core charge). I went used because this was an experiment and I didn't want to pay a $100+ restocking fee if it didn't work out. Also you should be able to find these any salvage yards all over the place as they aren't a highly sought after SC. Based on first impressions and review it looks like this will work perfectly. It is indeed a M62 and looks to be the right dimensions and an exact copy of the 1st gen SC. Also, even better news, the nose cone and drive direction of the Pontiac SC is the same as the TRD. That means you simply just pull the rotor pack and nose cone out of the Pontiac SC and place it right into the TRD SC. No other modifications needed.

I will be doing a full test fit this weekend and verify my findings, but this could be a very beneficial route for anyone with a 1st gen supercharger as nose cones are discontinued and rotor packs are only available rebuilt and expensive.

Details on the supercharger:
Pontiac Bonneville 1992-1995 (this is important as they switched to the M90 in 1996)

There may be other years/models of Buicks and Pontiacs that run this SC, but I'll have to do some research.

 

Alright so I'm really confused on how to take the rear bearings out. Because at the back of my SC is the photo provided below. Especially when the OP said he "beat them out of the rear"

 

A press is best. The back side of one of the bearings can be seen from the back of the supercharger, the other cannot and will still push out and come out of one of the intake ports. Mine were really seized in there and I doubt that any amount of beating would have done anything but break something on mine.

 

Has anyone ever had an issue where the boost gauge goes to 0 PSI under WO throttle and stays there even though you can hear the S/C whining away?! I went up to Tahoe this weekend and once I got to elevation, I noticed this change and it seems like the truck is lacking power but no fault codes...?! I'm going to connect to the S/C piggyback this evening and see if I can figure anything out. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

Thanks for the great write up, I need to do this

 

As @SeekingZero said one will press out into the intake tubs and drop out. The other there should be an opening by the actuator on the left side of your picture. You will see the back of the bearing just sitting there.

BUT, some 4th gen SC's have that portion blocked off and can only be removed by extracting the bearing. Can you take a vertical pic of the top of your SC by the actuator?

 

Update to this issue. If I accelerate WO throttle, the boost seems like its stuck at 0 PSI indicated, and then somewhere around 4-4500 RPM, I jump from 0 PSI to 8 PSI indicated and get pushed into my seat! It seems like something hindering the S/C, but I'm not sure what. I know this is the rebuild thread, and I hope the rebuild didn't cause this issue, but I figured this was as good a place as any to post this.

 

Do you have a IAC check valve installed? Is it facing the right way? I had a similar issue when I installed my check valve backwards and restricting the air flow.

 

Everything was fine up until the trip to Tahoe Saturday. I think it might be a belt slipping issue. Going to check the tensioner tomorrow. Seems like a simple issue if it works correctly at high rpm, but not otherwise.

 

Which is why I might not risk it and wait until I hear some bad noise coming from the SC and have magnuson do a full rebuild.

I'll take a picture of it once it stops raining.

 

Update, i got the Buick SC apart and the rotor pack fits like a glove lines up perfectly and drops right in correctly to the TRD housing. The nose cone is also the right rotational direction and thus no need to repress and gears. One thing about the nose cone is the shell is shaved down at the top by the pulley. Not sure the reasoning but the Buick is a complete shell and this may cause rubbing on the pulley potentially, will find out tomorrow. Also the shaft looks longer since it has a larger pulley but my busted TRD nose cone isn't a good judge for that.

Overall though, they are a great source for rotor packs and should work perfectly with the nose cone.

 

I'm gonna try to find one eventually and keep the rotor pack and housing in case.

Fuck, when I need to service one I'll just swap them, no down time.

 

What about us with plans to throw a supercharger kit on in the future? Is this a good option to save a bit of cash?

 

You have to take into consideration the size of its nose cone. You'd still need the brackets, bolts, and complete fit kit. Not sure how they look in the Buick but I doubt it has the same mounting hardware. Think of it like having an extra magazine to a gun.

 

I assumed it wouldn't be worthwhile, but if it the base was the same that would be a pretty amazing find. I plan to supercharge in the next few years so I've got some time either way.

 

They're pretty identical from what I can see. Only he has a better comparison perspective at this point. I'm willing to bet the TRD nose cone can fit onto the housing.