NW WA Meet / BS Thread

The BP 51 kit is Dakkars with extra leaf, rear shocks, front coil overs, and CB drop.
New, I got 3" in front, and I think 7" in back. Yes 7. Haven't measured since new.

 

I just had windshield # 5 installed! Last one had 12 chips and stars, the biggest one right in front of my face.

 

holy shit. I ended up with ~4"+ in the back with shackle flip and Dakar's. At about 2.5 in the front right now. Driving home I definitely noticed not having RTT, hilift and other misc crap in the back. Headlights pointed damn near at the ground.

I'm on #3 since I bought the truck less than 3yrs ago.

 

The rear was without my recovery box, bumper, spare or gas can, so it's prolly 5.5 now? Still looks a little stink bug ish, but once loaded with gear levels out ok.
Even with bumper, still about 3+" higher in back than in the front

 

I'd be down for that. It's literally down the road from me

 

OK I'm sure this horse has been beat plenty of times, but just for safe measure:
I'm looking to regear while I have the cash. I'll be going 35's at the biggest but not in the near future. 4.0 auto off-road. Rolling stock 3.73 right now. Unless something goes sideways and I end up SAS which would be a completely different gear set for completely different axles, I'll stick with 33s until they wear out. I am a fan of easy to find and common swap parts through the generations. A 4.30 e-locker rear was common in the 4runners but may not be easy to find since they share compatibility with prior generation pickups not just the Tacoma. If I can source the 4.30 e-locker rear easily and in good shape, all I need is the front from ECGS. Bottom line with my limit set at 35s varying between 33s would 4.30 be OK? Or just buy once cry once with 4.56 f/r from ECGS? Any input/criticism/bashing encouraged. I've pretty much decided to just get the drop n play replacement, not looking to mess around with meshing and shims to setup the gears myself. I don't have time to fiddle f around. I'd rather stick with my current traction setup, e-locker rear, open front with atrac/ECU controlled limited slip.

@northwesttaco I already know what you're going to say, so no need to comment.

 

I have 4.56s with 33s and I'm at 11mpg average... Unless your going to 35s soon your gonna get raped on gas. So id wait until your ready to go up. I wish i did. Also how old is your truck? How many miles? You'll be getting a piece of mind that your getting all fresh stuff in your truck. Plus ARB air lockers? Can't ask for better.. I'll be going up to 35s as soon as I can justify it in my head why I need new tires when I have new tires..

 

163k and counting. I have seapage from the pinion seal on the rear. Oil level is fine, but it's a matter of time before I end up doing the @utroda dance. Could be a year or more, unless circumstances arise. I feel for what I occasionally do, mostly work and back which is 4miles round trip, and the odd excursions with you all. I'm around 50/50 on the daily/off-road usage. I definitely drive to play, 200miles or more sometimes, but the mileage I do for work comes in short of play. If that makes any sense.

 

That's about where I'm at with 285/70/17 and 3.73... I'm lucky to get 210miles per tank.

 

If you think the tow fee is cheaper then dropping cash early then keep it stock for now. One thing once you regear you pretty much own the truck. You'll never get your money back even with high resale. It's not like you can pull your thirds out before you sell. Even with the shitty mpg I still have a piece of mind. Mine has 120k on the clock.

 

Actually, imo that's one of the easiest drivetrain mods you can do. I've never had to swap a ifs clamshell/3rd, but a gear swap on my old solid axle trucks was by far the easiest of mods. The front axle was a bit more in-depth. Even if it was just a rear third pull to Lincoln lock it. I've gone through alot of gear sets in my years, but never an ifs clamshell swap. Did the first few with just r&p with install kits then shopped around for drop ins.

 

Also if I do the re-gear I'll be into my truck what I could pretty much turn around and sell it for. For some reason the body shop fixed the misc body damage I had which wasn't included in the damage I used the claim for. The driver's side was completely blended and buffed, the passenger side shows a true representation of what I've used my truck for.

 

Give it the brush pinstripe treatment and they'll both blend

 

Wanna wrap it?

 

If the wrap can accommodate my lower 1/4 rhino liner, I'm interested depending on price and warranty/longevity. The rhino liner is a good 1/16-1/8 in spots thick. I'm sure most installers won't guarantee defect or blemishes resulting from the activities we do, which is understandable.

 

$525 for a roll. Wouldn't try to cover the rhino liner, just wrap up to it. And we can install it.

 

Holy cow! I feel lucky with 16.8!

 

Tahuya on the 29th will fix that!

 

I get 15-16 on a flat highway but I don't really pay attention to that anymore.