*Closed* 20% Off Supercharger Group Buy 2nd Gen 4.0 Engine

Let us know how you got that ecu to work.

Ordered afr cal this morning, will let you know how it goes.

 

If I had it to do over again that is exactly what I would do. Never hook the Bully Dog up to my truck and go straight to the dealer after installing the supercharger and get the TRD flash.

 

Can anyone say objectivly when the AFR should drop? And to what ratio, depending on rpm and gear and throttle response?

There is a lot of opinions here saying the BD/Magnuson flash is bad for the 1gr-fe engines. In that it runs too lean too long. How does one determine this???? What methmatical proof shows when the AFR should drop to what ratio? What proof/evidence is there? (Playing devils advocate)

**Edit (obviously if the AFR goes higher than 14.7, then you have an argument)

 

To get that spare ecu to work the immobilizer needs to be programed. I bought a spare ecu off ebay few years ago to be able to pull the s/c off if desired and go back to stock. I never tried to reprogram it yet though.

 

Afr should drop any time in boost progressively with the amount of boost.

No immobilizer for my 07

 

I will, maybe within 2 weeks.

Same here, so I assume it should be just plug&pray.

 

Mine originally DID go higher than 14.7, but that was an issue between the Bully Dog and my truck. I still don't know why, but after visiting the dealer and them 'trying' to do the TRD flash, that part doesn't happen any more.

But to try to and answer your question, ideal AFR will be different depending on who you ask. There is a chart I've seen out there somewhere that lists a general guide to ideal scenarios for AFR on a boosted application. I can't find the chart at the moment, but the categories are:

Stoichiometric - 14.7:1
LBT (Lean Best Torque) 12:8:1
MBT (Mean Best Torque) 12.2:1
RBT (Rich Best Torque) 11.7:1

EDIT: ^I may be off on these, someone feel free to correct^

^These are just a guideline to get you in the ballpark. Ideal numbers may vary a bit for a variety of reasons.

Like @moodywizard said above , the AFR should drop progressively as boost increases.

The problem I have is that at times there is up to 5psi of boost in closed loop and my ECU is maintaining the AFR at 14.7 until it hits open loop. Here is an example meant to illustrate:

Closed loop
0psi 14.7
1psi 14.7
2psi 14.7
3psi 14.7
4psi 14.7
5psi 14.7
Suddenly.... Open loop BAM!!!!!
6psi 12
7psi 11.9
8psi 11.8
9psi 11.7

Let's say ideal AFR is 11.7. The transition between open loop and closed loop shouldn't be like flipping a switch at a specific TP/Load/RPM. It should happen gradually, like this:

Closed loop
0psi 14.7
1psi 14.2
2psi 13.7
3psi 13.2
4psi 12.7
5psi 12.2
6psi 11.7
7psi 11.7
8psi 11.7
9psi 11.7

If you read the product description for the URD AFR sensor calibrator, it describes the same thing.

https://urdusa.com/store/Electronic...8/URD-AFR-Sensor-Calibrator/product_info.html

 

Made some progress this weekend putting some stuff on. Have to paint the other valve cover this week. Or I would have put the super charger on.

 

Looking good, sir!

 

AFR should never go lean. Enough said. Mine hits 16 before going into open loop.

 

It should also be noted for those who do not know:

WITHOUT BOOST
14.7 = NOT LEAN

WITH BOOST
14.7 = DANGEROUSLY LEAN

 

Thanks @loginfailed for the explanation.
And now I'm worried I did a terrible mistake as well of using Magnuson's reflash. I take my truck to the dyno next week, I'll sort out what to do after the readings. Ugh

 

Do thay have additional flash for 2.85 pulley like BD, ot thay use one "smart" flash?

 

Just to be clear, I am an experienced mechanic, but I'm not a tuning guru. Take what I say with a grain of salt. My motivation is not to spread fear or prevent people from doing what they want. Do your own research and come to your own conclusions. On my particular truck with the 2.85" pulley, I see 5psi while still at 14.7 AFR. Your situation may not be the same. Get a wideband oxygen sensor, AFR gauge and boost gauge to check what yours does before making any decisions. Or take your truck to an experienced tuner and have them evaluate it.

The Bully Dog has 2 tunes. Presumably the 'Stock' tune is for the 3.0" pulley and the '2.85 Premium' tune is for the 2.85 pulley. The TRD flash is just meant for the stock pulley, but most people seem to agree that the TRD flash is generally rich enough to support a 2.85" pulley.

 

@tacomavoyager Did you get your truck back yet?

 

you won, i will install SC later, with only TRD flash) and my gauges ordered. hope you saved a lot of time for me and money.

 

@Biscuits is on the TRD flash and just installed some fancy new gauges. Maybe he can chime in.

 

Well, I don't like that what I've posted has kept someone from diving in. But what you are saying is exactly what I wish I had done.

 

Unfortunately no... pretty much getting screwed by my local dealer.
Original when I brought my truck in to determine the issue with the check engine light the service advisor told me that there was low compression in cylinder 4 and to determine the cause they'd have to pull the heads,inspect the pistons and rings. I asked if that'll be covered under warranty. They were not sure until the tear down to inspect the cause. If not covered under warranty worst case would be 2k. Already annoyed with the whole situation I say go ahead pull it apart and let me know. A day or two later I get a call back from the same service advisor stating it's not covered under the powertrain warranty BUT it's covered under the manufacturer warranty and they agree to cover the cost of EVERYTHING TO DO THE REPAIR. And was told parts will be ordered and the repair should be done in a few days at most.
Two days later I receive another call from the same service advisor stating the power train warranty needs to determine the cause. Little confused at this point. And he'll let me know what they come up with.
The following day I get another call from the same guy stating that the powertrain warranty company or whatever came and determined the cause and they are saying the URD intake (was removed when I took it to the same dealer after being told that is was the cause of the p0101)I installed and the supercharger are the cause and will NOT BE COVERING THE COST. Which will now cost $6000
At this point I'm disappointed in the dealer for giving me the run around. I feel like this whole thing could have been handled differently. Basically I'm upset with the misleading and unprofessional sales approach.The warranty coverage should not have even been mentioned until FIANL INSPECTION. It's a poor business approach.

 

Could not click the like button.

Wow. Sorry to hear how this has turned out. There is no way the intake can make that happen. The supercharger could make that happen IF it was running really lean. With it being a known problem with a tech bulletin issued for it, I can't see how Toyota would not cover it. You may want to call Toyota customer service and plead your case. They may offer a good will repair and cover the whole thing. If not, you may be able to get them to share the repair costs. VW does this all the time for my customers. I've seen them cover 100% 75% 50% of the repairs even after the powertrain warranty has expired. Toyota should do the same thing.

Provided that doesn't work, can they really prove the supercharger caused it?
https://www.consumer.ftc.gov/articles/0138-auto-warranties-routine-maintenance#will

The burden is on them the PROVE that the supercharger was the cause.