Metal Shavings in Oil - BEWARE - 2016 Toyota Tacoma SR5

It's possible to verify this theory methodically, right? Just empty the filter housing into a different container, and see if it's got significantly more shavings than the drainage from the oil pan.

 

Not real promising to hear about engine failures so soon.

 

Wouldn't that just tell you whether or not the filter is doing its job instead of whether the engine is producing more metal than previous generations.

It's a serious question. I'm not an expert by any means.

To see if prior generations of aluminum block Toyota engines did the same thing you'd have to find a relatively new 4.0, change the oil, and somehow cut open the old screw-on filter with creating additional metal fragments by cutting it.

The science part of my brain is really curious about what I'd find.

Or I guess you could draw some comparisons to other aluminum Toyota engines from other models with reusable filter housings. It doesn't necessarily have to be from a Tacoma.

I've just new to reusable filter housings so I really don't have much experience to draw from.

 

My Ex's old Cavalier had a Cartridge Style Filter and it was never full of metal.

 

You mean like all the FJ Cruisers and 4Runners made in the last six years?

 

The techs at the local Toyota dealers here make the same for regular vs warranty. The dealer makes slightly less but the techs dont pay that price.

 

^Really, so the book time for a warranty engine replacement is the same as a non-warranty engine replacement? Wonder if it's the same in the US vs Canada.

The dealer makes a lot less on a warranty job because they effectively don't get the parts markup.

 

If the metal shaving persist, you will get a new engine, not truck. You should see the size of metal shavings I find a Jet engine chip detectors. The detector give you a warning when a piece of metal creates continuity. We are talking about $1M engines and I can pull the shavings out with tweezers. Its normal haha.

 

What engines do you normally work on? We always did oil analysis after testing engines.

 

I worked on the GE CT7 Engines, non marine grade during my tour in Miami on the 144s. Now I work with the T56's (not the 6-speed transmission) on the 130H's here in Kodiak. Seemed normal to have shavings. The type of shavings can be fine or concerning...

 

Very Cool! I did GE90's, CF6's, and CFM's

 

This is something I've noticed on TW, quite frequently there seems to be a lot of negative comments. I feel for you, and if it turns out to be some kind of defect, I definitely think you should get a new truck from Toyota. Replacing an engine from "dealership" technicians and not from the factory seems questionable.

 

I had a Subaru short block changed at 60k miles due to piston slap. 125k miles with a stage 2 tune later....it had absolutely no issue an no oil burning. I wouldn't worry too much.

Insist on the extended warranty though. They shouldn't have a problem giving one to you if they believe in thier workmanship.

 

Y'all got me worried... I have 7k on my truck right now and havent had any oil/oil ffilte at all beacuse the oil change isn't till the 10k mark.. should I change it myself now?

 

Yes they do.Most are flat rate and warranty labor time is usually about half the labor time of customer pay.There Hourly wage stays the same but the amount of time they get per job changes

 

I have a 2016 SR5 DCSB 4x4 and I changed my oil at 5k since the dealer wouldn't change it until the 10k service which I am coming up on shortly. I did not notice any metal shavings, but will look the next time I change it. I hope it works out for you.

 

I think you're going to be ok here because the dealer and Toyota already said they will replace your engine if there's metal in the oil on the next oil change. If they have to replace your engine, it's not the end of the world.

 

Not here.

 

Been like this since I was wrenching back in 1998. Warranty was always half the book time for normal CP rates. Manufacturers know how much time it actually takes for an experienced tech to do something. Hourly rate didn't change either. You just end up flagging more time later somewhere else on another job when you could spot a potential issue and SA could upsell the suggested work. It usually balances out.

An engine swap won't be a ''gravy" work order though. I've been on some tear ups and remembered one vehicle got lemoned because Honda corporate went and authorized the "cheap" route on something they should have done a long block on, not just flush the other components that need oil and lubrication.

OP, make sure they change out the whole thing.

 

Normal Break in. 1st Oil change at 500 miles, second at 1500 miles ,3rd at 3000 miles, then every 5,000 miles after that ,then switch to 100% Full Synthetics at 20,000-25,000 miles, and every 5,000 miles after that for life!I got 300,000 - 500,000 miles on ALL my vehicles since 1976 by doing this Old School Mechanics ! Certified Diesel,Gas, Heavy Equipment Mechanic since 1976 to NOW !Change those Fluids and Lubes and Filters Often as in OLD School days and ways for long life and NO Problems !