Rear drums, swap w/ 4runner?

what are the symptoms you are noticing on the "overheated" brakes? have you checked operating temps of all corners with an IR thermometer gun? having driven and worked on both i dont see the big disadvantage everyone complains of with drums. if they werent up to the job they would not be the go to brake system for the biggest, heaviest (often most expensive) vehicles on our roads

 

I know that for the 2nd generation Tacoma TRD offered upgraded front brake pads. Maybe look into upgrading your front brakes.

 

but WHY? are thge rear drums really getting so hot they are gassing and causing fade? i doubt it. id be concerned why the rears are not working before i considered higher performance pads to compensate

 

Does the 2016 / 2017 Tacoma still have a load sensing valve for the rear braking system? If it does maybe that wasn't adjusted properly? Brakes are not a simple on off affair any more.

 

The front brakes do most of the braking. Especially downhill. He wants rear disc brakes thinking that they will provide more rear braking. If he gets rear disc brakes the front brakes will still be doing the vast majority of the braking. And he also claimed that the front brakes are the ones overheating.

 

Drum brakes are what made me buy!

 

So here's the deal, i'll explain instead of quoting.
I go down a steep hill, with engine braking, and still need to ride my brakes for most of the part. I keep letting off to air them, but it just isn't long enough to let them cool. They start mushing out at the bottom of the hill.

I've done many replacements to the rear drums as they start making noise and shuttering. I also, unfortunately, needed to replace the rotors 2 times (the heat warps them. Similar to the drum self destructing with heat) I ended up settling for crossdrilled//slotted rotors. The thing is, the drums take way to long to cool down. I have even tried running/ducting air to blow straight on the drums. didnt help at all.

Not saying drums are bad. I'd be perfectly content if i didn't have to commute over a gnarly hill. It's just that drums possibly aren't the best component for my current situation.

 

considering all big rigs use them...clearly they have some decent stopping power.

the heating is the only issue I've ever seen with them and that wasn't even personally.
Never had a problem with them on previous vehciles

 

still convinced its your driving style.
I'm sure plenty of people drive those same roads with drums and have no problems

Have you considered checking your brakes for adjustment?
Perhaps the rears just aren't working as they should be and have to adjusted?

I've driven in areas with significant hills and never had an issue.

 

What I would start with I'd the tundra brakes in the front, if that still doesn't fix it there is a guy over in t4r who swapped his drums for fj60 rotors, and mini truck calipers. That's the only rear conversion I have seen
Edit: saw this was red gen not 1st, my bad

 

I've personally adjusted the tension on the cable running to the rear drums. Not too sure about people running drums here. Most cars are pretty new sedans. Trucks aren't a common need, except i need one to get up a rough, muddy road up to my house. Got to love private roads when the neighbors don't want to split the cost to pave the road!

 

Okay. This is a long shot. It kind of sounds like you might have compromised brake fluid. The symptoms you are saying are similar to moisture in the brake fluid. It's possible that it's the extreme heat of the brake fluid near the calibers are boiling the moisture to a gas (steam) which is compressible (mushy). Clean and pure brake fluid without moisture will remain a liquid and isn't compressible. It's an easy and cheap fix to buy and flush out all the brake fluid at each wheel and in the master cylinder. (My opinion is worth the price paid!)

 

I'd say take the above post idea first.
Get better front brakes.
in terms of physics, changing the rears won't really do much for the fronts. Sure it will help but the fronts still take most of the braking and sounds like you need more front stopping power.

 

Holy moly! You can get the tundra breaks on the front? Is it easy? That extra surface area would seriously help my braking!

 

+1 ^^
I change the fluid in my race bike after two race weekends and I'm an old, slow guy.


You can also try an oversized rotor kit.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...z5n-29ECFUVBhgod8qUAng&ibanner=MobileSwitchNo

 

Some People are too lazy to learn how to swap drum shoes.

 

personally don't know as the factory brakes are fine to me so haven't looked into it.
Just saying it was suggested and if it is an easy swap its probably more effective than changing the rear.

 

People have already explained the drum vs disc thing so I'll save my breath but I will post this if you're die hard on doing a rear disc swap:

DO NOT SWAP TO REAR DISCS WITHOUT ALSO ADDRESSING THE BIAS PROPORTIONING VALVE

This is often neglected and will lead to you having less (possibly dangerously less) braking power!

The basic rundown is this: drums require less line PSI to get a certain amount of braking torque out of them. Because of this, your stock proportioning valve is going to apply less pressure to your rear brakes when you press the pedal. It's just simple physics to keep them from locking up versus your front wheels. And so, if you just swap in calipers onto the same lines, you will be attempting to actuate calipers with drum-oriented line pressure. It's simply not going to work as well.

 

no no no no stop stop stop this

3rd gens already have Tundra front rotors and calipers talked about aaaaaaaa this keeps popping up

(not trying to single anyone out it just keeps getting mentioned, and is misinfo)

 

Have you tried to get custom rear shoes made. I have used a place near me that makes racing brake pads/shoes. I have seen pads and shoes that make abs skid.