Switch to Mobile-1

My truck has 75K and was wondering would it be safe to switch to Mobile-1 this late in the game? I have been using Mobile oil but am considering switching to Mobile-1. Do you think it would cause any problems?

 

Perfectly safe. Its a misconception that changing to synthetic will damage anything. I bought my truck with 104k and have been running Mobile 1 since i bought it.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Synthetics/Myths.aspx

 

Why switch now?

 

x2

 

its always a good idea to switch to synthetic imo!

 

get a mobile 1 filter too! not fram garbage!

 

Its great to switch anytime to Mobil 1, as long as you wait for the initial break of the rings in a new engine.

 

you'll be fine switching now.

 

i did it and my truck has never ran smoother HUGE difference imo

 

I did it at about 42K, but unfortunately I didn't really notice much of a difference.

Now when I switched out the transmission oil to Red Line synthetic, there I noticed a bit of a difference.

 

I ask because the OP already has 75K mi. The added protection of a synthetic is moot at this point since he has that many miles. As others have stated it won't harm to switch, but if dino oil has worked up to this point, why switch? A synthetic oil will not restore any performance. If the engine has added wear from using dino oil, what will a synthetic do for him at this point except cost him more money?

 

Maybe halt the wear at 75K.

 

Understood, but the engine should already have a good amount of wear at 75K using dino oil. I guess what I'm getting at is the best results of using a synthetic oil is realized when used in the first stages of an engines life. By midlife, or late life of an engine, a synthetic won't do much for you; unless of course the engine was neglected and there is a fair amount of sludging going on. In fact there is credible evidence of those who changed to a synthetic oil late in the engine's life can expose leaks in the engines seals that were held together by the deposits of using a dino oil. The advanced detergents of a synthetic hastily erode these deposits and in turn cause the engine to consume oil.

 

A syn oil may clean out the gunk that has accumulated and may cause leaks at this stage of the game .

I'd stay with a dino oil JMO

 

Lower friction is lower friction, no matter what the miles. I switched a Toyota at 70K and drove it to 200 with no issues. Sold (reluctently) to get another vehicle. I switched a Nissan 2.4 pickup at 100K and drove it to 276 and counting. Both purchased used.

Added protection is always good

 

I can agree that added protection is always good, but can you say with 100%certainty that had you stuck with dino oil on both vehicles, they would not of made it to the miles they did? As I read more about the topic, I'm starting to believe the use of synthetic oils might be a marketing ploy by the oil companies (I've used Pennzoil Platinum from Day 1). In fact many "synthetic" oils on the market today are not true synthetics....Mobil 1 being one of them. Back on topic, That late into the game, wear to the engine has already been done. To realize the true benefits of a synthetic, you'd have to switch early in the engines life one would think.

 

OK, point taken. I'm coming up on 30K and am going to go syn. I've been using dino every 3k religiously. Hope for no leaks.

 

I believe the added benefit would be increased mileage between service intervals. Otherwise, conventional oil changed regularly will make an engine last just as long...

 

Very little can be said with 100% certainty.

I can tell you that I have seen many engines make high mile counts on conventional motor oils with aggressive change intervals (3000 miles). I can tell you that I have also seen the results (reduced wear) on engines torn down using a quality synthetic oil. I also did not say what brand of oil I used.

I tend to look more at Euro ratings (ACEA) than I do SAE when it comes to oil. That and any specs I can find on the oil. (not listed viscosity) Then, if the bottle does not list a desired spec on it and the website does not list the spec I will not buy it for that application.

 

You should be fine at 30K. By most accounts it's when you get into the 70K mi and upwards that deposits may play a role.