*Closed* 20% Off Supercharger Group Buy 2nd Gen 4.0 Engine

Me too LOL

 

Me too. Never opened

 

The install was pretty basic. There are only 5 wires you have to tap into. If you remove the glove box the wires are all easy to access. Gadget sends the wiring info and the ECU pinout to reference.

I soldered the wires and insulated the connections with 3M Super 33+ electrical tape.

I'm still all in on the UCON for the newer models too. Though, now after installing the AFR sensor calibrator the UCON is more of a want than a need.

Yes. Oh yes. Much more pep in its step. Before, to get any power I had to get it into open loop. Now, as long as there's boost it pulls great.

Where were y'all last week when I ordered mine?

 

@loginfailed likes this

 

Look at the pic I posted. It says remove the Offroad only sticker and replace it with the carb sticker.

I haven't done mine yet. I don't live in Cali so maybe I'll get around to it, maybe not.

 

Took another video to illustrate. Here you can see now that there is boost with enrichment while the ECU is still in closed loop. Not sure why my AFRs are slightly different side to side. It wasn't like that before I installed the calibrator. I need to ask Gadget about it. I may just need to recalibrate my widebands.

https://youtu.be/D-ioWqJF1SU

 

Sweet login! This is so confusing. Why does one thing or another work for one person but not for others?!

 

I guess each situation is somewhat unique.

 

How you adjust it? With laptop? Any 'print screen' pic about the program?

 

From my engineering background I would speculate that originally Toyota created the trd flash file for the magnuson supercharger. Now that it's in the hands of magnuson there was no transfer of knowledge and magnuson has no where close to the amount of engineering resources Toyota does. If I don't get anywhere with magnuson this week, of which I have very little confidence at this time, I'm just going to buy ucon.

 

Just too old. Didn't fit in the supercharger that well. And it's original from 2005. I've been replacing a lot of stuff like idler pulleys and other gaskets as well. And figured why rush it. I would rather have a new Toyota gasket and make sure it doesn't leak

 

Yes, you tune it with a laptop and a serial cable. The software disc doesn't list Windows 10 as a compatible OS, but I used Windows 10 and it worked fine.

The serial cable I used is the same one I used for the Innovate widebands. I would assume pretty much any USB to serial adapter would work, but these are the ones I've been using:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/insigni...l-adapter-cable-black/5883029.p?skuId=5883029

The tuning software is called R4. There are a few write ups on some other forums.

Each of the cells in the map can have a value anywhere from zero to twenty. Ten is neutral. A value lower than ten will make the engine run richer. A value higher than ten will make the engine run leaner. The unit came with a MAP for the 5VZ. Gadget told me the MAP for the 5VZ is way off from what the 1GR needs. He said he didn't have a MAP for the 1GR because he lost his backup of the file. But he gave me some hints on roughly what the 1GR needs. I took what Gadget said and compared it to the 5VZ MAP and I just guessed. It turned out to be perfect.

The R4 software has a decent amount of resolution. In my opinion, it is capable of doing a lot more than what I need it for. I'm sure with a dyno, I could probably make the MAP much more accurate. But based on my gauges, this product has eliminated my issue.

Here is a screen shot of the map I used.

 

It can be a bit confusing at first because you'll notice in the pic above that I didn't start adding fuel until after the 10psi column. There is another window in the R4 software that opens when you first start that allows you to view what the current data is. Under the map sensor pressure field, without the engine running it shows 10psi.

So 10psi is actually equivalent to 0psi on the boost gauge.

 

Yeah I noticed you had an 05 after I posted, figured that was the case, its always good to replace stuff like that JIC.

 

To throw another wrench into the confusion my truck doesnt always run the sams. Most of the time my truck runs like moodywizards. But a couple days ago I was playing around watching the AFR and it was reacting like it should. If I gave it some gas the AFR would instantly drop! It was great! (Most days it doesnt like to sway from stoich) yesterday I was playin around and I could get it to drop at low boost but if I let it accelerate the AFR went from 10's/11's to 16, then eventually back down to 12's. *eye roll*

Idk what to do really. Tempted to throw some cash at a AFRCAL but idk.

(I'm running bd, 2.85 pulley, stock intake, stock exhaust)

 

PM @tacomavoyager about the AFR cal. He's not going to use his. Maybe he can save you a few bucks.

 

Let me know I'll give you a great deal.

 

WTS MAF Cal with MAP thingy for $225 shipped

 

I am tempted to pick one up now that you have tried and said yours runs much better...

 

The worst thing that could come of it is that it doesn't do what you want it to do. Then you can sell it. You won't have lost much.

EDIT: Get the one @tacomavoyager has. He needs to pay for mods for that BIG-ASS Tundra he has on order.