Brice's NA V6 Build

I recall reading something like that although I'm not sure whom posted it. It would definitely be reassuring to know someone has boosted this engine to 350 wheel and not had catastrophe. I can't even imagine how high yours will be safe to with forged rods. Starting to seem more and more like you made the right decision with the 9:1 over 8.5, heck I'd even say upping to 10:1 would be safe with rods and high boost on e85.

 

Note to self....this is the year 2016 not 1983. The Chinese make good shit nowadays......

 

2017 brah

 

No. No. Still no. Not for export.

 

Sadly no e85 until I can run away from emmissions. Engines going to be limited until I can get around that.

 

But a friend got a job at the local awesome space of precision turbo... I might be doing Something special once I can...

 

Hey sorry for not responding to anything, I all the sudden stopped receiving emails for posts on here, not sure why.

I remember that thread, he used an Apexi and something like a 12:1 FMU...

Thanks @Clay_916 for the gap info

After a bit of tuning on sunday, I got it pretty good at 8psi. However I have an issue when flooring it where open loop dumps in waaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyy to much fuel like 8:1
Once open loop gets a bit leaner I think I'll go for 10 psi.

One other thing is that my AEM UEGO gauge wont interface with the fic, but I think it's a ground issue. Also my LTFTs sit at around -21 when cruising in certain rpms, but my STFT never go beyond +10 and -10 when crusing (I know they can be better). It seems when I'm adjusting the fuel table using control+D and control+U one point up or down seems to be too insensitive making the STFT either lean or rich but never at or near zero, like: control+D = 3 to 7 STFT, but control+U in the same place would do something like -3 to -7.

But now the truck runs great at 3/4 throttle and 10psi of boost builds at 3000 rpm.

My plans now are to (listed in order of likelihood to happen before the end of the summer lol)

1. Get a new boost controller. (Boost falls off in a weird way)

2. Get some 2.5inch stainless pipe and a new bigger IC. I'm kinda tired of the clamps blowing off of the non bead rolled pipes.

3. Get a locker

4. Get caltracs

5. I'd really like some scs F5 rims, but haven't decided on how I'd wrap them yet... probably a street tire of some sort

 

I'd suggest 3" SS pipe for a turbo. Don't want any back pressure.

 

I dunno, the turbo itself has a 2.5" outlet and I read stuff on guys making 700hp on 2.5" tubing... I don't think it matters at this sorta power level, and I don't have to worry about any new clearence issues with 3" piping if i stay 2.5" Plus 3 inch piping would create even more of a boost drop since the boost is "made" if you will from a 2.5" pipe

 

Did you build your own downpipe? Most of us run the cx kit who's downpipe is 3". And our turbos output is 3". Guess I understand if your turbos output is 2.5".

 

Wait... I'm talking about the Intercooler piping

My downpipe is the CX one adapted to 4-bolt, that feeds into a Flowmaster pro series straight through that dumps 45 degrees before the axle

 

Lol. 2.5 for intercooler yes.....

 

Saw that coming. Lol

 

Get any more tuning done?

 

Is it possible to replace the drive shaft with a one piece?

 

Yes.

 

Is it ideal for lifted tacoma's?

 

Only issue is you get a little less ground clearance off road. Otherwise, I'd prefer it over the carrier bearing.

@Brice, what do you mean "boost falls off in a weird way"? What waste gate do you have? Did you check intake/exhaust for leaks?

 

Hey, just finished reading your entire thread, lots of good info.
I recently purchased a CX racing turbo kit with a Turbonetics T04E-50, MAP-ECU3 and URD turbo port fueler with 310cc injectors.
I was hoping someone on here could check out the turbo compressor map to let me know if it is a good match for the 5vz.
Any help is greatly appreciated.