Power sliding window mod info thread

@Hit n Run, it does look like the part number you provided is correct.

69088-0C010 Cables/Assembly(Tundra)
69088-04010 Cable/Assembly(17' Taco)
85710-0C110 Motor
69811-0C020 Metal Bracket that holds it all together
84810-0C090 Switch
90980-12550 Connector for the switch
Connector uses Terminals 82998-24290

The Tacoma cable lengths are shorter then the Tundra cables and are a perfect fit on a 16' Taco, which in turn I am assuming would be a good fit for a 2nd gen taco.

Here is a link to a thread where @kgarrett11 is looking at manufacturing some Benwa style Brackets

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/power-sliding-rear-window-bracket-feeler.472282/

EDIT:

Detailed parts list provided in another thread by @Jeff Lange

I believe these are the parts that are different between a 2016 TRD Sport Double Cab 6M and a 2017.

64101-04291 - Rear Cab Body Panel
64810-04130 - Window Assembly (Includes both side pieces of glass)
64807-04040 - Glass, Sliding
64805-04010 - Stopper, Sliding Glass (Qty: 2)
85710-0C110 - Motor, Sliding Glass
69088-04010 - Cable/Regulator, Sliding Glass
90105-A0014 - Bolt, Sliding Glass Regulator (Qty: 2)
69811-0C020 - Plate, Sliding Glass Regulator
90080-14057 - Bolt, Regulator Plate (Qty: 3)
90178-A0025 - Nut, Regulator Plate (Qty: 3)
55446-04060-C0 - Base/Bezel, Instrument Panel (Switch Mounting)
84810-0C090 - Switch, Rear Sliding Glass
82730-04072 - Fuse Box/Junction Block, LH Dash
90080-87025 - Relay, Sliding Glass (Qty: 2)
82141-04Y81 - Dash Harness (TRD Sport Double Cab 6M without Dual Zone Climate Control)
82141-04Y71 - Dash Harness (TRD Sport Double Cab 6M with Dual Zone Climate Control)
82161-04321 - Floor/Rear Harness (TRD Sport Double Cab 6M)

 

Thanks!

 

Yups that's correct. Let me know if you also want the part number for the switch.

 

might as well toss it up here and I will add it to the list for any future viewers ahaha

 

Switch
84810-0C090

Housing Connector
90980-12550

 

Thanks adio!

 

the housing connector, is that the plug for the back of the switch?

 

Since we are throwin out some part numbers, connector 90980-12550 uses terminals 82998-24290.

 

Yes sir.

 

Sorry for the late reply. I don't know if this will help or not.

 

Thanks Adio , I will do some research for cross-referenceing the motor assy. This is for "us"that maybe can't afford a brand new unit.
Thanks,
Tim

 

Can you get Denso number from a new motor assy?

 

It looks like the motor isnt made./sold by Denso. I'm just going to use a motor from a side window that mates to the housing w/cables pn69088-0C010.

 

@adio any progress/pics of installation?

 

Sorry unfortunately not yet. Monday I'm off so I'll have a chance to look at that back panel and see what I got to work.

 

Finally got to look at that back panel. Keep in mind this is just a mock up of where I want to mount the main motor/bracket. Things can change depending on how I can work around those plastic storage bins. It's giving me pretty much no space to work with. Looks like the worst thing is to cut around some space on that plastic bin, which I don't want to do but have no choice. I like to keep things as stock as possible but we'll see if we can keep it clean looking.

I'll try my best to keep you guys updated.

Those plastic bins where pretty easy to remove, 3 10mm bolts on each side, pull forward towards the hood.


This is where I'm thinking of mounting it, dead center. As for how I'm going to mount this thing, that I'm still thinking about a few scenarios.

Luckily it has enough cable and cable housing length on both side but more slack on driver side.

 

The reason my window motor was mounted in the "lower right" side of the bulkhead, was for the same reason you are facing. I did not want to trim plastic from my rear seat back (access cab) - there was a "relief" in the rear seat back in the area where I mounted my motor, so no trimming and a lot of clearance. I discarded the factory window bracket because of mounting and clearance issues. I trimmed my cables to the exact length necessary to minimize "slack". You will find that excess cable will cause your motor spring tensioners to flex to the point that your cables could loosen and bind on the motor cable reel. Cable tension is "critical"!!
Good luck with your project.

 

Y'all have done excellent work gathering these parts so thanks in advance!
Is the 84810-0C090 Switch and 90980-12550 Connector for the switch a necessary part or can any switch be used?

 

I "very carefully" drilled 1/4" holes in both ends of the window channel:



Then used bicycle cable adjusters in each hole to secure the cables:

 

If someone wants to do it on the "cheap" I did my installation for $100. I used a cheap regulator for an impala that I bought off of Ebay ($25, free shipping), some bicycle derailleur cables and housing (about $15), a double pole double throw switch ($10, free shipping), and had a machinist friend fabricate me BenWa's bracket (he said for free, I gave him $50). I used inline cable adjusters that I got for free from the bike shop for the cable tensioning, a couple of small pieces of Lexan for stops on the ends of the cable housing, and a piece of scrap aluminum I had laying in the garage. I had wires and connectors laying around and used an open terminal in my auxiliary fuse panel. Here are some pics in the "What did you do to your Tacoma Today" thread. Post # 86339, about 2/3 of the way down the page. If I had an open switch position I would have sourced a Tacoma switch and made it look factory. Unfortunately all my switch blanks are full. I'd be happy to field any questions people have.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/what-have-you-done-to-your-2nd-gen-tacoma-today.6499/page-4317