Igor: Double Cab 4x4. Frankenstein's Helper

Just when I thought I had the whole BS concept grasped...

 

haha

Yea like 3.5'' BS isn't the same on a 15x8 vs a 15x10 for instance. the 15x10 is going to have (Aproximently as we don't know the wheel mounting surface thickness) 6.5'' deep wheel vs a 4.5'' deep wheel on a 15x8. Again, thats not true really because of other factor but you get the gist.

Where as a 15x8 and a 15x10 with both -10 offset will put the wheel mounting surface in the same spot. But the 15x10 will be about 1'' wider per side.

So it easier to transfer from wheel to wheel with offset then BS. And to figure how much you'd want.

 

Backspace still is the same per wheel width. A 10in wheel with 3.5 will stick out more comparably than a 8in wheel with 3.5. That's the only difference. Offset is where you get differing measurements of how far the wheel lips are.

 

So this helped me a ton. Went on "willtheyfit.com" and got this as my result.



Stock compared (yellow) to 16" SCS Ray 10's(green). + a 1.25" spacer. I think I will be perfect.

 

Mike, FWIW, I'm running 16x8, 3.5BS, and a 1" spacer, and my 315/75/16 ST Maxx just barely swipe the frame. And that's only when I'm turning at full lock. I'm really happy running 2.5 total BS on my truck.

I'm no expert, but this was my understanding as well.

BS is independent of the wheel width because it's simply the distance from the mounting surface to the edge of the wheel. At least, that's what I thought.

 

That is true.

What i mean is that it isn't a good judge of where your tires will be as the rim width is very important there.

Again, a 15x8 with 3.75 is nothing like a 15x10 with 3.75'' BS

 

Their 16s are 4" of BS but we were talking about Monte's wheels, which are 17s.

but you arereferring to the difference on the outside edge of the wheel, not the BS. On the scenario you are describing, the outside edge of the wheel will stick out further by 2".

 

Right, which will also rub more in the lower front fender while turning.

 

Well, just spent $257 on new wheel bearings for the front wheels. My driver side one is getting very bad. Hoping to tackle it next with with josh and tyler.
Doing both because why not. Better then finding spindles used and will last another 150k or more.

 

Did you end up with a set of 4 or 5 Ray 10s?

 

5

Got the spindles off today. Going to take them to Toyota to get new wheel bearings in tomorrow.

 

I will be curious to hear how much that ends up costing. Are you getting the bearings from them too?

 

No i ordered them from Camelback. $257 for bearings and seals from them.

Shop here quoted me $220 to do the work even though the amount of work is literally just pressing out the bearings and replacing them and the seals....oh well.

When i called to ask how much it would be if i left the truck there it was over $1000 so i'll be happy if its less then $500 no matter what.

Hoping the rear ones don't need replaced too.

 

not sure if you replaced the fox rear shocks but Im curious if its okay to run the resi on the side using only hose clamps? I was looking at getting some for my icons but this would save money.

Sexy DD btw! @Trigo goals for your DD here

 

On the side as in on the frame? Yes, you can do this. I think several companies make frame mounts for the resi's to mount to the frame. Especially 2nd gens. just make sure there is slack in the hose for a little shock movement.

Mine resi's on Frank up front are just strapped to the frame with hose clamps.

Thanks! Trying to keep him in tip top shape..expensive though..

Got a few nice mods coming. Nothing crazy though.

 

500$ for parts and bearing install ain't so bad actually. Another 500$ for the labor of removing and reinstalling the spindles, ah, yeah... You can do it yourself and you have a place to do it, save yourself some cash.

As for the rears, if they are not leaking, I would not worry or do anything. If one starts leaking, I would fix both sides tho, with new seals and bearings.

 

Well i ripped the spindles off and dropped them off and all the parts they needed. Still, 220 seems steep..but considering i haven't gotten a call back yet..even that has me worried..

They aren't leaking. But I'm not sure if they are noisy or not yet. Can't tell with the front ones being shit. Hoping they are fine..Don't wanna pay for that.

 

My rears have never made any noise when they have failed. The first time one failed, there was a rhythmic vibration at highway speed that got worse and worse over short (under 200 miles) amount of time/distance. Mostly I felt it, never really heard it. But the tunes were cranked up.

The next failures were just leaks, never any noise or vibrations. That could be because I spotted or smelled the leaks early, before the bearing begain to rumble/vibrate.

Are you smelling gear oil after a drive?

 

ah okay. Mine rumbled like crazy up front.

Just picked them up. $233 bucks to get them pressed in. Im sure it would have been cheaper going to a machine shop. Oh well.

Hoping to get them installed late tonight. In the middle of prepping a show that is tomorrow night so could be crazy.

 

Talk about a rape in that price. The last time I had wheel bearings replaced I spent $20 for a shop to press out/in with taking in the spindle. Granted it's been a few years but still