What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Added some orange halos with my led daylight runner lights.

 

So I was just about to order lbjs and a center support bearing from camelback but apparently they only take PayPal, so I had to do all the make a new password BS all to find out there's no link to buy now, WTF! I've bought parts from them before but for some reason I can't figure out how to confirm my order. Anyway where do you guys buy your parts?

 

I also tried partznet but Google was telling me it wasn't secure and then I noticed is not even partznet. Just not my night!

 

Toyota of Dallas?

 

This should be a sticky.

 

Looks a whole lot better. Now it those light bars look great under the grille.

Your telling me I have those days every once in a while. Especially with a co-worker being a lazy while your doing work.

 

I am curious if this is from a cold startup or a warmed up startup? Or does it not matter?

 

Cold start ups forgot to mention.

 

Yeah, was thinking it might be. So the rough spot you refer to could be the transition from open loop to closed loop. There is a lot going on at that transition.

What say you to that Zane? @Speedytech7

 

So it's something to do with STFT? I wonder if ultragauge reads that.

 

Welp this will clearly be in the wrong section, but also has many knowledgeable people in it so it makes up the difference...

So im running a deaver j59 soa leaf pack with 10’’ king smoothies w/ clickers and wheelers bumps (shaved a bit)

My problem is that im not getting the up travel that I would have liked to see out of the rear end (flex/droop is great).


How would you suggest I gain a little more uptravel without going sua but also while trying to retain current ride height?


A lift shackle set at 1.5” lift say would “theoretically” gain up travel but would result in my leafs going negative even faster right?

Fabbing a new bump pad (closer to the frame upwards) would also get more up travel but leafs would do negative again correct?

On the tacos the soa leaf packs seem to have little arch at ride height and know of shops actually building their tacomas with up to 4” negative arch... thoughts? (not trying to replace leaf packs annually)

Another possibility would be to run a hydro in the rear(keep current amount of up travel the same) but I would basically be riding bumps everywhere... dont want the truck to just buck all over the place due to the bumps(maybe low psi in the bumps?)

..or should I just let it go seeing as its just a mild MT setup and shouldn’t expect a lot?


Any thoughts/advice from the more knowledgable TW shock peeps is greatly appreciated

 

If it is happening on cold starts I suppose it could be during the transition to closed loop. Pretty easy to watch with the UG to find out, that would certainly help figure out what systems are involved. Also yes the Ultragauge does monitor Short Term Fuel Trim. Super useful to see what kind of nonsense is occurring during the transition and after a short drive, say 10 mins of stop and go type situations, whether there is a trimming or measurement issue. In closed loop the STFT should essentially be static as closed loop doesn't adjust mixture based on AFR measurements, but as soon as it moves to closed loop it should come to life and give a glimpse of how much correction it is applying right off the bat.

 

Ok, so what am I looking for? Anything past say -10 to 10%?

 

I would make a new gauge page that looks at Absolute TPS %, STFT, LTFT, Engine Temp, and RPM the open and closed loop ring is already in the top right corner by default. Perhaps a video of the UG during warmup when you can catch it doing this. STFT has a range of +/-15 before it sets the CEL so yes something that high could be a tip off to another issue.

 

If it is an open/closed loop issue, it removes the angle of the driveway from the discussion. It also removes comparisons to 'warmed up' vehicles like the one in the video.

 

Sweet, yeah I'm aware of the open/closed loop indicator. I'll make this page tomorrow and then test for the next day so I don't contaminate any data.

 

These type of issues have only occurred on my steep driveway so I thought it was an interesting factor. But I see how it can be eliminated.

 

Unfortunately a lift shackle or sua would be the only way to gain up travel, which could cause the leaf pack to go negative as you said. I would save the money and time just get a bigger (more arch) leaf pack and then do sua. That should maintain your ride height and give you more up travel and possible droop if your shocks are angled right.

 

Redo your bump stops.

Your shocks will be the big limit but if you can make other mounts for the wheelers bumps you may gain an inch.

But not much.

Really you'll be bottoming out the shocks first most likely.

Adding more lift is probably the only option via shackle(maybe) or swapping in a more arched leaf. You won't gain a lot as a whole. Part of the problem of SOA. You'll be lucky to get 11-13'' of vertical travel(whole axle moving up and down not articulating) with SOA. Even if your shocks aren't the limiting factor.

Hydros aren't the answer here unless you feel the need for them.

My leafs have a ton of arch on Frank. I have probably 8'' between the top of my wheelers bumps with a 3/8'' spacer and the strike plate...A lot of lift though..

 

Thanks for the reply... with the bamf relocation an shocks angled like /\ I still have about 2 1/2 inches of shaft at current bump. I'll have to measure the current bump plate now but making a smaller one would probably be the most easy and effective way. Shouldn't be hard to fab up either.

Am I going to be killing leaf springs fast by going into slightly negative arch?