Always-on 12V power outlet mod - 3rd gen

To modify the 12v power outlet in the center console armrest to be always on in the 3rd generation Tacoma, you will need to completely remove the fuse box located to the left below the steering wheel. Disconnect all the electrical plugs, carefully figuring out how each one connects so as to not break any plastic tabs. Then take the box into a bench where you can do some soldering on it.

Remove the white plastic cover on the box, and remove all 12 or so screws holding down the circuit board, and remove the board. You will see 11 relays soldered into the board, each one with a small id tag. Find the one labeled P/OUTLET, as in this photo:



Then flip the board over, and find the corresponding pins on the underside. Solder a wire between the following two pins as in this photo (red wire):


Then reassemble the fusebox, and reinstall in the truck. Putting it all back together will go MUCH faster than removal.

Note that this mod will only affect the 12v outlet in the center console armrest. The 12v outlet on the lower dash will still be controlled by the ignition.

Hope this helps! I was tired of camping with the truck and having a dead phone the next morning.

Michelle

 

Amazing! Thank you for this!

 

Well done. Not to high jack your thread, but since you seem to be electrically inclined. I am trying to find a way to keep the LED DRL's in "High" mode all the time. Even when the head light is on. You didn't see a replay here for the LED DRL did you?

 

I haven't looked into that, so I'm afraid I can't help. I am guessing when you write that you want them "in 'High' mode all the time", you would actually like them to turn off when the truck is off (with the ignition). This current mod provides power to the center console armrest outlet at all times by short-circuiting the relay, so it would perform differently than what you want with the DRL's.

 

Nice write up! Has anyone figured out how to keep the 110v plug in the bed always "on"?

 

while I like the cleanliness of this mod, why did you opt for this instead of just running a 12V hot wire to the outlet (which could then be on a switch if desired)?

 

Bookmarked for later, thanks for posting.

 

I started digging in there, expecting to find a blue socket relay that could easily be shorted to provide constant power, as in the Gen 2 trucks. However that isn't the design in Gen 3, and I just kept digging until I found the correct relay for Gen 3, which happened to be deep inside the fusebox module Plus, IMO this is easier than pulling up the trim to the center console to run a wire, and finding a constant 12v source for that wire, that can also handle the load.

 

This is great, thank you. Do you know if the other power outlets go through this circuit board also? For example if I wanted to provide constant power to my usb and other 12v outlets as well.

 

Just did this mod, was a little more involved than I expected but not too bad. Worked great, and I have constant power to my center console DC. Of note here are a couple of my points.

1. To access the fuse box you need to remove your lower dash panel. To do this pop out the step panel and then the cowl cover. This will provide access to a silver bolt, then remove the two black bolts attaching the lower dash panel. Next you need to release the cable for the hood release. Page 8 of this manual gives a rough idea http://toyotaparts.sparkstoyota.com/install/PT398-35160inst.pdf

2. Remove all of the clips attached to the fusebox. They require a flathead screwdriver to release, then pull on the handles on either end to gently pull the connectors out.

3. Once you have the box out remove the plastic cover as stated. The diagram pictured matched my truck (2016 TRD OR AC), so you can probably get away without unscrewing the board and flipping it. Instead just make sure you match the image of the soldered points.

4. The only thing that came up for me was in the process of manipulating the box, a 30a Type B fuse fell out. There were three possible places for it, and nothing was noted on the fuse diagram. I placed it in the center after taking this picture have had no problems. If anybody does this mod, could you let me know where that fuse is supposed to live.

 

Just did this to my pro today works like a charm

 

Holy molee.. really? What happened to just modifying the relay? Did it become this difficult now?

 

Man it was actually quite easy, like REALLY easy

 

probably.. lol

 

The thing that stopped me on this mod was the removal of the dash panel. lol But those instructions up above are giving me more confidence. Now that I've got 10K miles on it, the sweat band of modifying stuff if loosening.

 

Good luck, it really is pretty easy

 

Looks a little intimidating to me. Is this difficult? I could really use an always on 12v.

 

Nice work! Thanks for the write up!

 

If you haven't soldered anything before, definitely avoid this.

I just did this last night...I'd say for a person who's a novice or hasn't ripped into their truck before, you should avoid this. For the most part it's pretty easy. Pop some covers off, unscrew a handful of 10mm bolts, solder and put it all back together. The thing that got me was the hood latch cable...you have to remove it to get the knee bolster off. Getting it back into the hood release handle was a pain in the ass.

Thanks to @skrankk for the additional details he provided. OP made it seem super easy and straight forward, but I wouldn't have thought I needed to pull the step plate and cowl cover just to get the knee bolster off. And sorry, I didn't see your point #4 since I was reading from my phone, didn't scroll far enough down otherwise I would have told ya where that fuse was on mine.

 

Oh but thanks @catware for posting this...worked like a charm once I got the fuse box out of there.