Secondary air injection system P2440 and P2442

I'll check on that and get back to u

 

My valves had the same part numbers also. I don't think we will know yet what the future holds, let me put another 50k miles on her and we will see.

 

Another Update:

CEL came on again after a full tank of gas so > 300 miles. Made an appointment w/ the dealership to use that $1000 Toyota was giving me towards the issue on diagnosis so I would know which part to replace because they won't let me use it for just parts.

Sitting at the dealership now, they said I needed to replace pump, valves & gaskets to the tune of $2300. The pump alone was $800 and I could have sworn I've seen it online for around $200.

I asked them why the pump needed to be replaced and they told me that the impeller blades wear down over time.. I told them I took the pump cover off and that the impeller blades were perfect, and they admitted they wanted to replace both because that's what Toyota wants them to do, they said they didn't even look at the pump.

Needless to say, I had them take the pump + labor off of the bill which brought it down to $1300 ($800 pump and 2 hrs of labor @ $125 per hour.)

I told them to go ahead and replace the valves and gasket and apply the $1000 towards it... so I'm getting new valves, gaskets and the labor to do it all for $300.

 

Funny how they charge 2 hours of labor just to take the pump off. I think it's held on by 3 bolts and pinch clamps. I think I took mine off in 10 minutes or less.

 

No kidding. They said 4hrs labor for the valves too.

 

I'd like to see if this bypass kit works for the Tacomas. That would be the easiest fix, right?

 

I bought the valves from Toyota online parts with gaskets and shipping for $446.82. The valve might take 30min to put on and the only specialty tool would be an etorx socket to take the studs out

 

When those codes popped in my truck, I ended up replacing the pump, valves, filter, and lines. Not knowing which component failed first. Is there anyway to figure out what to replace first?
Elliot33 - Why did you decide to get the valves first, as opposed to possibly the pump? Did that replacement work, and keep the codes from coming back?

 

Mine only had the 2442 code. That code is the switching valve. Checked my pump and it looked good.

 

I don't mean to get off topic of this thread, but does anyone have a recommended code reader / reset tool ? Thinking it may be a must to have handy.

 

So to update you all.... I received my diverter valve assembly in the mail the other day, and replaced it today. I had my father come over and help me, (father son time), and we did it in about 2 hours all together. It was a pain in the ass to remove and reinstall the bolts closest to the bottom, but it got finished. So far, drove to the ABC store and back, and no lights yet. Before the light would come on almost immediately upon leaving the house. Keeping my fingers crossed. I decided to go only with the diverter valve because that was the CEL codes I was getting, was for the valves. I also opened up the air pump and all seemed well, looked it good condition. At least for now, if I start getting codes again, I should know that it's the air pump. That part is way easier to replace, considering I removed it today just to move it out of the way, 3 bolts and one rubber hose. If you were fulling switching it out, the only extra thing would be an electrical connector. As for the engine code reader TACO, I bought this one from Amazon, and it has worked good so far for me......

$36 Autel Professional OBD2 Scanner AL319 Code Reader, Enhanced Check and Reset Engine Fault Code, Live Data, Freeze Frame, CAN Car Diagnostic Scan Tools for All OBDII Vehicles After 1996, 2025 Upgraded

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XE8C74/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

The filter at the bottom of the page in the ad....that's the one people are buying for the pump?

 

If you have any sort of smart phone then just get a wifi or Bluetooth OBD adapter and an app on your phone. Way more flexible and useful than the dedicated readers. Adapter about $15 and apps from free to $10.

Yep, the UP-107.

 

I am also having this issue - just the p2442 code. My 2012 Tacoma only has 39k miles on it.

My question for you guys is: Assuming I have the problem fixed, is it likely to occur again down the road? Or does the replacement resolve the issue going forward in most cases. From what I have read, I havent seen anything that would imply that this WONT happen again, but I could be wrong.

Thanks in advance for the assistance. This is definitely not something I expected before even hitting 40k miles.

 

It will happen again, same parts, same shit design

 

I don't see why it wouldn't happen again.

You should be covered by warranty at 39k miles.

Mine went out at 92.5k and they gave me $1000 towards fixing it, out of pocket for me was just under $200.

I figured this new will last another 90k miles, but I'll hopefully remember to do the bypass before then.

 

Thanks for the info. I have seen many different things when it comes to the warranty on other threads - I'm outside of my 3 year/36k warranty, obviously, but the dealership informed me that this repair is not covered under the powertrain warranty, which is still active. Is that inaccurate?

And when you say that they gave you money towards fixing it - did the dealership or toyota directly?

 

From my understanding, EPA/Emissions parts have longer warranties, something like up to 65 or 85k miles because their only function is to comply with gov regulations.

 

They wont honor it under the emission warranty unless your in California, It is also not covered under powertrain as well. I was still under powertrain and had no luck getting any help at all. Took it all the way to corporate and after the truck being down for 4 days I finally bought the parts and fixed myself.

 

Does anyone have an extra oem air pump bracket laying around. I would like to purchase it. Trying to get rid of the previous owners K&N "CAI" and get back to stock.