Lifted '16 Tacomas

Cool. How do you like them / how hard was the install?

PS, props to your wife for knowing about overlays

 

Super simple install. Just cleaned badges really well with alcohol wipes and stuck the overlays on. I think they look good, but the holes in the "A" are not cut out...

 

anyone seen a 4-6 inch lift on 285/70/17's??

 

@honey has a 6 inch lift with that tire size.

 

You betcha if that's the highest, I can't remember is it technically 2.5 or 2.75 but whichever I instructed the shop to the highest setting.

 

So what's the best left option that will not void your truck's warranty?

 

I figured out my question above but have another one I'm hoping someone can help me figure out.

I'm getting 5100s all the way around. But I'm curious if I should go with a 1-inch block in the back.

My truck is actually pretty close to level because my Leer cap causes my back to sag about an inch.

My questions are:

Knowing the back 5100s don't lift the truck, will they fix the sag?

Or knowing there will be a sag, does it make sense to put a 1 inch block back there and raise the front about an inch?

I'm not finding too much conversation about lifts with caps.

Thanks - hope someone can help

Here's my current situation on level ground

 

2016 dclb w/shell. I went 3rd gen 5100's at 1.1". Will def need to lift the rear 1-1.5". I also needed a ecgs cv bushing as soon as lifting.

 

Just got me some new shoes

265/70/17 Goodyear MT/R with kevlar

Method 309 Grid

 

Cool - what kind of lift do you have going on there?

 

I put a 2.5" spacer on the front and the back is stock

 

I do understand... however it is a use case scenario that directs which round/rifle I use and I expect the same type of information is needed to identify the proper lift. I have been doing research and frankly all my research has concluded is that I shouldn't lift my truck, instead I will just continue to use my Jeep. Lifting my truck doesn't gain me anything. thanks for the advice... or lack of though. either way I appreciate it.

 

I totally understand your dilemma and frustration and decisions on lifting this particular truck. It seems they have lots of members on here that being fed incorrect information and feeding others incorrect info. One piece of bad information is spacer lifts. It is said on here that it changes the geometry of the suspension different then a coil or bilstein 5100 lift. If you lift the front of a tacoma with 2 inch spacer lift or 2 inch coil lift, the geometry of the suspension will change the exact amount because essentially the mounting points of suspension will move apart 2 inches this increasing angles of driveshafts, ball joints, a-arms, and caster. What will change is the ride stiffness, rebound and compression of shocks if you are going with any other shock/spring combination other than the factory coil/strut. Using a spacer should not change ride quality from what the factory coil/strut assembly already gives you. When you use a bilstein lift and you preload the coil allot to get the lift (stock coils on 4th or 5th notch), your suspicion then looses its down travel and will cause a harsh ride over bumps because they springs are under so much tension they are trying to force the strut fully open. The use of aftermarket upper control arms have help restore some lost geometry changes when your lift puts your factory geometry to far out of reach.It seems anything over 2.5" in front may start cause a need for them (while i have seen others say they are 3" up front with correct alignment specs), also anything over 2" sometimes calls for replacement of left bushing in front clamshell diff on 4x4s. Drop Bracket or long travel lift setups may or can change geometries depending on what the company engineers into their lift when they build it. Lift blocks are another misconception. Blocks will not change your spring rate, it only increases the distance between axle and leaf spring. Axle wrap (twisting of axle due to forces from accelerating) and running out of shock stroke can be a factor in the ride when going with a block, same as going with add a leaf or new spring pack. New leaf packs or add a leaf will change spring rates and make the ride stiffer but also give better travel and articulation off road. If your shocks are not sized properly then your suspension may bottom or top out too fast in the travel of the suspension when going off road or operate outside the "normal parameters" that the shock was designed to do. Marie from @HeadStrong Off-Road and myself were talking the other day. One suggestion when lifting is to put the stock tires/wheels on after lifting and alignment to give you a 2nd baseline of how truck rides, sounds and feels to make sure everything is installed property. Once a truck is lifted, due to center of gravity or rake of the truck is changed from front to back, with weight transfer they will ride differently. When you put lift then go with a larger or heavier rim/tire combination, you may get slower braking, acceleration, shakes from improper tire balance, rubbing (going to big of tire or wrong offset on rim) or some other condition. So my suggestion is to test ride truck, to get baseline. Then lift, align, then test again to make sure the lift components are to your liking and there are no problems. Then put your wheels and tires on and re test drive and then get the 3rd baseline of the current state of your truck. By making one set of changes at a time, it can help you pinpoint any issues if they come up.

From what i have read so far, the combination that seems to work with least amount of trouble but best ride is bilstein 5100 shocks with ome 887 spring (or any major brand coilovers ICON, FOX, KING, whatever your budget allows) , 1/4 spacer on front left, with 3 leaf add a leaf in the rear or 1" -2" block depending on how much rake with new properly sized shocks. Then upper control arms to bring your geometry in alignment if your lift is out of factory specs in the front.

EDIT for BLUETACO I just read you are putting bumpers, you may need to go with heavier spring rate like OME 886 (i believe) for the front to handle extra weight of front bumper and add a leaf may be better option in the rear because of the extra weight of the rear bumper. If you get with marie @HeadStrong Off-Road and tell you what height lift you want, and about your add ons she can suggest what combination would work great. If you do Bilstein 5100, i would go with 2nd gen over the 3rd, it seems to have better travel with less chance of bottoming out shock and valving seems close to 3rd gen from what others are reporting. I just got off work so sorry for the bad punctuation and grammatical errors.

 

Thanks for all the information, I appreciate it greatly. I have considered all of the geometry woes that you brought up, it seems that gets glossed over on here quite a bit. I considering scrubbing the entire idea of lifting my truck all together. To be done properly it is simply too great a cost and frankly lacks in reward. I have taken my tuck out hunting in the past and have been able to traverse just about everything with little issue, the main benefit was comfort and being able to carry more gear and people. I will likely just stick with using my Jeep when hunting, it does everything I need it do and already has bumpers, wench, lift etc and just by virtue of the shorter wheel base has a greater clearance. It's never left me anywhere and I just cant justify putting another $6K+ into this truck to lift it the correct way and having the major benefit be aesthetic. Putting that much money into a truck and it not adding value is the killer. The only people that benefit from the lift is the dealer that I trade it into a few years from now, when they sell it to someone else. I do appreciate all of the input and effort that you put into the reply though. Thank you.

 

I think this is a guy called @orangehulk

 

@BlueTacoTX going with the set Bilstein 5100 , on the factory coil springs, either stock height are going to the second notch would improve the stock ride of your truck. The dampening and valving of them over the stock shocks or a lot smoother and I think a set of four is like $340 from headstrong off-road. Which isn't bad to get a better ride. And it seems like you could still fit a 265 7516 all-terrain on stock suspension or the upgraded shocks and probably get you anywhere you need to go , if you need something more than the jeep for people or carrying capacity

 

Ah man, I can't decide if I want to go with a 1.5 - 2-inch AAL or put a 1-inch block spacer in the rear of my truck. I have a cap on the back.

I've got front and rear 5100s on order and was going to put in an order for a 1-inch block, but the guy at the shop said a AAL would be better with the cap. But now I think I'm getting into the "too-much" lift zone. I only have 265/75/16s on my truck and I don't want the lift to dwarf my tires.

Curious, for reference I'd like to see some photos of about a comparable lift...a lift with a cap and some 265/75/16s

 

@djadonis206 We installed front and rear 5100's, with the front on the 4th (2.5") notch. We also installed an aal which gave me 1.75" lift in the rear. I think I was so excited to get the shocks on that I forgot to take pre-installation measurements on the front. Sorry for the bad after pic but I wanted to get one with the truck parked in the same spot so the difference could easily be seen but I ran out of daylight.

 

Are you having front vibration ?

 

Icon Stage 1 with tubular uca and add a leaf