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Heated seat wiring help

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by maxpower29, Nov 6, 2016.

  1. Nov 30, 2016 at 11:05 AM
    #121
    Kerrigan911

    Kerrigan911 Well-Known Member

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    accessory or wipers would also work. The simple fixes are always the best!
     
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  2. Dec 2, 2016 at 11:54 AM
    #122
    maxpower29

    maxpower29 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    All season mats, 2nd filter delete, DT header, Jardine cat-back, URD shifter, Bilstein 5100's all around at .85 front with Eibachs + .25 passenger/.5 drivers spacers and 1.5 AAL, 0w20 synthetic, Scanguage II, extra D rings, OEM backup camera+Mirror, bed mat, Extang Solid Fold, Popnlock 5300, Pro Comp 7089's 4.5bs 285/70/17 Revo 2s, De-badged
    OK so without sounding too needy, can someone tell me a list of electrical wire/conenctions I should need to rewire this to the battery and relag to the cig lighter?
     
  3. Dec 2, 2016 at 11:59 AM
    #123
    Sub_Par

    Sub_Par Well-Known Member

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    Just get fuse taps and find circuits that aren't used a lot to tap into. These heated seats don't draw a lot of power so you should you should be fine. This is how mine have been wired for 2 years with no issues, my moms car also has a kit that I installed and no issues with fuse taps. Your kit has a relay already so don't complicate this anymore.
     
  4. Dec 2, 2016 at 1:22 PM
    #124
    Larzzzz

    Larzzzz Grande' Ricardo

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    Check your pm...
     
  5. Feb 4, 2017 at 9:00 AM
    #125
    metal-rex

    metal-rex Well-Known Member

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    Quick question. I know this is a bit old, but my seat heaters look just like the ones in the original post...they have an inline fuse. If I use an add a circuit do I keep the inline fuse as well or does that fuse go into the add a circuit? I dont want two fuses on the power line do I?
     
  6. Feb 4, 2017 at 10:03 AM
    #126
    road2cycle

    road2cycle Well-Known Member

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    I'd remove the fuse from the seat heater and butt splice that connection. Use the add a fuse as the fuse for the heaters. I can't think of any good reason for having two fuses on the same circuit since if something goes wrong it will be more difficult to troubleshoot.

    Also consider using a relay on the seat heater power connection. It should be noted in this thread.
     
  7. Feb 4, 2017 at 11:06 AM
    #127
    metal-rex

    metal-rex Well-Known Member

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    I believe these come with a relay. So my plan is to run the driver and passenger heaters to the single add a circuit and plug in each in line fuse to the add a circuit. Thoughts?
     
  8. Feb 4, 2017 at 4:46 PM
    #128
    Larzzzz

    Larzzzz Grande' Ricardo

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    Did the heaters have their own fuse? If so, that answers your question. Don't take a chance of overloading the trucks wiring. I'd fuse at the battery whereas the relay switches on with the ignition.
     
  9. Feb 4, 2017 at 7:31 PM
    #129
    metal-rex

    metal-rex Well-Known Member

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    Wont fusing at the the battery keep the power always on? I would think using an open fuse location would be best to allow power when ignition is on
     
  10. Feb 4, 2017 at 10:32 PM
    #130
    road2cycle

    road2cycle Well-Known Member

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    Check post #81. I think that will answer your question. The relay in that circuit is only enabled/energized when the ignition key is turned one or two clicks.
     
  11. Feb 4, 2017 at 10:48 PM
    #131
    metal-rex

    metal-rex Well-Known Member

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    Took a look. This is from the Clazzio web site:

    How hard is the kit to wire?
    It's pretty simple, really... There is one ground, and one positive lead for each seat. Simply join the 2 kits together, and run the black to a good solid ground, and run the red to a circuit that turns on and off with the key. A pretty common circuit to tap into is the cigarette lighter. In most vehicles, the amperage is high enough to run both seats on high without blowing a fuse, and they usually turn off with the key.
     
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  12. Feb 5, 2017 at 7:33 AM
    #132
    road2cycle

    road2cycle Well-Known Member

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    There are lots of ways to wire this up. Some methods carry less risks than others. If it was my vehicle I wouldn't do it that way since you're dependent on whatever else is also drawing current on the tapped circuit. In my opinion a dedicated circuit is the way to go for a seat heater install. Granted it will take a lot more time to wire it up but will significantly lower the risk of something going wrong (as long as you use appropriate wire gauge, connectors/splices, etc.).
     
  13. Feb 5, 2017 at 8:01 AM
    #133
    metal-rex

    metal-rex Well-Known Member

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    I don't think it needs to be as complicated as the diagram. Here is the harness and relay. Looks like the switch and the power/ground wires come from relay. I figure I can wire both passenger and driver (+) together and run it to the add a circuit.

    2017-02-05 08.42.25.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2017
  14. Feb 5, 2017 at 8:03 AM
    #134
    metal-rex

    metal-rex Well-Known Member

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    And relay

    20170205_084400.jpg
     
  15. Feb 5, 2017 at 4:07 PM
    #135
    Larzzzz

    Larzzzz Grande' Ricardo

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    Ultimately, it's your truck you can do it any way you want...
     
  16. Feb 6, 2017 at 12:13 PM
    #136
    road2cycle

    road2cycle Well-Known Member

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    I mentioned there are various ways to do this mod and some are better/safer than others.

    Would I use that method on my truck? Not a chance.
     
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  17. Nov 3, 2017 at 7:03 PM
    #137
    bagleboy

    bagleboy Well-Known Member

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    Snug top Rebel, Thule tracks, ditch tracks, Bagged rear suspension, F/R anytime camera, intermittent wiper switch...
    Im planning an rtmr with one of the fused only circuits to convert the 12V plug to always on. Then I can repurpose the existing lighter socket power lead to source both the switch and relay power. Already appropriately fused, already ignition on, only need to tap the AC panel illumination wire for the LEDs which I plan to do anyway for other additions to the center switch panel. This would eliminate the fuse taps in the cab fuse panel and preserve the kit wiring harness keeping most of the wiring in/around the center console area. Using the bussman for the heater relay would mean discarding and rewiring the entire seat heater harness. This lets me keep things clean and simple which is the intent behind using the rtmr.
     
  18. Nov 4, 2017 at 11:17 AM
    #138
    metal-rex

    metal-rex Well-Known Member

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    Seat heaters made it through the winter without any issues. Used them this week and still running strong.
     
  19. Nov 21, 2017 at 7:36 AM
    #139
    bagleboy

    bagleboy Well-Known Member

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    Looks right to me. The harness takes care of the relay connections, all you need is power from the battery and ground.
     
  20. Nov 21, 2017 at 7:58 AM
    #140
    bagleboy

    bagleboy Well-Known Member

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    A relay is a switch for high current. The switch you press with your finger controls a small current that turns the relay on allowing the relay to supply the much greater current used by the heater. The fuse protects all the wires behind it from shorting to ground. If a short occurs the fuse blows instead of the wire(s) overheating and causing a fire. The red wire is in two pieces because firewall. The red wire from the harness goes through the firewall and connects to either end of the red fuse wire. Other end of the fuse wire goes to the battery +. Battery - is the best ground but it's common to connect to the frame or chassis as long as you ensure bare metal to bare metal contact(no paint)
     

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