Harbor Freight tools thread.

Those were free. They never send the coupon no more.

 

I'll be looking I guess.

 

The motor has color coded leads that plug onto male spade terminals in its junction box. These can be configured to operate it on 120 or 240 VAC--a diagram showing what's what is on the motor label:



To change it to 240 V operation:

• the brown wire on terminal 5 is removed and reconnected to terminal 3;
• the white wire on terminal 6 is relocated to terminal 5;

The power cord and the lead from the switch to the motor are both 3 conductor SJ type cables--i.e. they have one black (hot), one white (neutral) and one green (ground) conductors--when connected to a single phase 120 V supply there is 120 V between the black (hot) and white (neutral) wires, and also between the hot and green (ground) as neutral and ground are wired in common at the branch circuit box.

To use these cables with a "split phase" (actually 2-phase¹ though that is not common terminology) 240 VAC both the black and white wires will be hot, with 240 V between them, the green wire will be ground and there will be 120 V between both hot wires and ground. When doing this it is good practice to wrap black tape around the white wire at all connection points; i.e in the wall plug and in the pressure switch and motor junction box. This will alert a knowledgeable electrician that the white conductor has been re-purposed.

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¹ - Most all residential power enters as 2-phase 240 VAC with two hot and one neutral wire, these are the outputs of the center tapped distribution transformer that "steps down" the "street power" to power for the residence. Diagrammatically it looks like this:



Electrically it looks like this:


Note that the end-tap outputs, when referenced to the center tap, are each 180° "out of phase" as compared to the other (when the voltage is high on one phase it is low on the other). This is the "split-phase" or 2-phase power. And because they are opposite in phase the voltage between the two end-taps is 240 VAC,

In the entrance box of a residence the center-tap (neutral) is tied to ground, literally to a copper or copper clad rod driven into the ground. The white neutral wire in the residence's wiring exists only in that wiring and is tied to ground in the entrance box.

 

Wish I would have copied it. I just used mine to get a five pack for free last week.

 

I think it was you use of the term "positive"--there is no positive or negative with AC power...

 

Awesome cliffyk thanks

 

Does anyone have experience with hf biscuit jointer? I need one for a project and don't want to spend $100 +

 

Same here, did stick, arc and spot welding. I should have put more effort into it, all i really made was ninja stars and weld my name into steel plates lol.

 

I got the 170 amp mig welder today and un-boxed it. $169 with a coupon. Unfortunately my 220 outlet is 4 pin, so I will be going to Home Depot in the morning to get a 3 pin outlet to replace it. Then test it out and see what it can do.

 

www.hfqpdb.com

 

I've used the shit out of some husky and Kobalt tools. I have faith in those brands. I've got a Husky pressure washer that has been working great for years alongside a Husky compressor that has also worked great for years.

Picked up these over the weekend along with some other crap. They smell weird and don't feel like real metal lol but we'll see if they last.

 

A lot of people see these as junk, and treat them accordingly then say, "See! They are junk!". If you take care of them like any other tool most everything from HF will last. Except for the screw driver bits. Those are horrible no matter how you use them.

 

I'm not sure how you can "take care of" a socket set besides not using them as chisels or smacking them with hammers?

If the piece of shit snaps in half trying to loosen a nut(what it's supposed to do) I'm going to call it a piece of shit...because that's what it is. If it lasts and doesn't break immediately I'll be happy. I've been using my 10 year old Crapsman sockets on my impact for years and haven't broken one yet.

 

Sockets from HF blow. End of story. The metal they use is as porous as a dish sponge.

 

I've been using normal crapsman sockets on my impact for quite a while lol. I thought I'd give them a break and buy some sockets that were made for it. Especially since they were so cheap.

 

Similar to spacer lifts on TW



...and diff drops

 

Just bought a breaker bar and torque wrench. Happy about the price and we will see about the quality.

 

I just got a torque wrench. Ten bucks with the coupon!

 

I love mine. Use it constantly and it seems to be on par with my Gearwrench.

 

I got both and love them!