My solution to Behind the seat storage (with molle panel)

IF YOU DON'T LIKE READING SCROLL DOWN FOR PICTURES

Removing the plastic storage "bins" behind the seat was good for some extra room, but I wanted something to organize the area. I settled on some molle Panels on Amazon, and ammo cans from harbor freight and it worked out amazingly.

I usually carry a heavy duty bin in the bed with some tools and recovery gear, that I wanted to try and move into the cab for the most part.

Harbor freight sells little plastic ammo boxes for 4.99$ on sale that are amazing little storage containers for the price, and I found as luck would have it we can fit 5 of them on the floor of the rear storage area. They fit like a glove with a little trimming of the plastic paneling that goes around the rear Left and right seat belts (can not see trimmed area with seats up)

I wanted as much room as possible, so I also removed the Child seat safety retainer bar going across the rear of the cab. There was about 20 or so spot welds that needed to be drilled out. This is done VERY carefully as the sheet metal is the only thing between the elements and inside of your cab. I basically just scored around the spot weld with a ~5$ spot weld drill bit from harbor freight and then popped them off one at a time.

Once that was removed I covered the entire area in sound proofing material, I then got a sheet of 1/2 plywood and attached it to the rear of the cab, Then attached the molle paneling to that.

Used an extra piece of the 1/2 plywood to make a "cover" for the storage boxes.

This setup turned out to be way better than I expected. TONS of room for stuff back there and I can keep it all very organized.

It also has the added benefit of making a level surface back there for my dogs.

Total Cost ~100$

Molle panel ~30$, Plywood ~15$, Carpet material to cover plywood for bin cover ~10$, Bins 25$, 80 mil 10 sq feet sound deadener 22$ amazon, stainless hardware for molle panel ~5$ Links to products used at bottom of post



Bin 1: Flat repair kit (12v air compressor, patches, rubber cement and patching tools)
Bin 2: Collapsible fish rod, with tackle box
Bin 3: Tools (these little cases are GREAT for tools)
Bin 4: Ratchet Straps
Bin 5: tow strap

On the molle as of now: First Aid kit (not in pictures), compass, flashlights, gloves, keys to rotopax mounts, accessories and hardware for RTT, Glow sticks, mosquito reppellant, sunscreen, Titanium sporks, hydroflask, cpr mask, fire extinguisher.

On floor over storage bins I usually cary my guns, axes, camping hammock / grill etc...

All of this and I still have the under seat storage as well

Here are some pictures:

Before:


Spot weld removal


After:



Picture of the bins under the cover



Picture showing one of the bins and contents:










Links:

Ammo cans: Molle:

$32 Rapdom Tactical M.O.L.L.E. Panel, Black, 24" x 32"

https://www.amazon.com/Rapdom-Tacti...F8&qid=1486495957&sr=8-1&keywords=molle+panel

Sound deadener:

$30 Noico 80 mil 10 sqft car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KZ5X7KO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

This is real slick!

... definitely on my sub list now for when the warm weather comes.

Thanks for remembering me in a PM, OP!


--------------------------------------------------------------------------
BTW:

Can you ad a link to the cans and MOLLE panels? I'm in Canada, so I have to look for similar up here.

 

Links added at bottom of op

 

The webbing runs the width on the MOLLE panel in your link.

The webbing runs horizontal on the length of the panel in your truck.

How's that?

 

The Molle panel is cut in half, and mounted appropriately. Ended up being a perfect fit for the space.

 

I see...

I wonder if removing the cross bar compromises the structural integrity of the cab?

 

I was thinking the same thing and actually started a thread asking that exact question, My belief as well as others is that part of the cab is "corrugated" for structural rigidity, as it is in many other trucks.

Many trucks do not have that bar across it and simply have the "corrugated" stamped steel in the rear....From all of the research I could do, I found that it is almost certainly just there for a tie down point for "car seats" for babies.

 

Im def doing this.

 

Ive been thinking about doing something similar. Thanks so much for putting up the links for what you used. How did you mount the plywood to the back?

 

I tac welded some nuts to the rear of the cab and used bolts through plywood, in retrospect, heavy duty velcro would have been more than sufficient. The weight of the stuff that is on the molle is more vertical than lateral if that makes sense.

 

Ok cool. I was thinking about using velcro, but i wasnt too sure how well it would hold up. Hoping I can get this done this weekend.

Im just kinda worried about taking the carseat retainer bar, so I may just make the panels above and below it (if that makes any sense)

 

This is fucking awesome. I need to do something like this. Right now I have 2 amps, sub box, and a rats nest of wires.

 

That would work, I thought about it, but I liked the idea of removing it and glad I did. I understand if some people want to be a little less invasive than I.

Also post some pictures if you do it.

 

I bought the truck with 2 12's in a custom box back there, If you are going to use your truck for camping, or you would like any type of storage back there I highly recommend moving it out of there. It is a actually extremely useful spot to store things.

 

I've toyed with the idea of relocating the amps to underneath the seats. Sub is definitely staying tho - it only takes up the space behind the driver's side seat. The double fold down is still clear other than the amps. My problem right now is messy wiring. I don't camp much, just some light wheeling. I still have the under-seat storage area that holds recovery gear.

 

edit* In my opinion (as well as my friend that is an automotive engineer). I wasn't trying to start an argument- I really do like the modification!

The corrugated back wall is for added structural integrity- but is not enough on its own bc of the thin/ light metal used. The bar that was removed would add to the cabs side impact resistance as well as helping to prevent things from coming through the back of the cab. I worked at a body shop and we repaired an F-150 that did an emergency stop (without hitting anything) and the (properly strapped) load he was carrying came through the back of the cab and pinned him into the steering wheel (could have used one of those bars!).

It will hopefully not be tested in a side impact- or with a shifting load. But there is that very slight chance that you could be taking away a small percentage of your trucks safety. Although the plywood has to add something!

 

I appreciate the input, but I have a feeling you are posting this based on your opinion, so it may help if you start with something like "In my opinion, the corrugated back wall...." The way you said it makes it sound like you are stating an absolute fact, which is misleading. Also if the load was properly secured as you stated, it would not move even in emergency evasive maneuvers, and it definitely wouldn't move just slamming the brakes.

Anyways I'm not telling anyone to remove or not to remove the baby seat retainer, if you are a very cautious person there are ways around it.

 

That's awesome!

 

Holy shit thats awesome!! I was going to do some storage bins out of a dblcb in my single, then I discovered this... might have to go this route!