Wheel Bearings/Hubs 4x4 & 4x2 PreRunner for sale *complete* save $$ CUSTOM BUILT AVAILABLE

Tracking says my bearings should be here tomorrow. Hope the snow doesn't screw things up. Go my new 35mm socket and new torque wrench ready to go. Fast shipping on nj636s' part, thanks.

 

well, shop said my bearing is fine, so I'm not replacing it right now. I'll wait until I am not sick and order from here and just do it myself.

 

Prob because the want it to fail harshly so they can charge you more to fix it . I hate most mechanics

 

A bad bearing is a bad bearing... not sure how it would be more just b/c it is worse. I doubt the mechanic wants the wheel to come off on the highway. A bad shop would be more inclined to try and upsell you a bearing when you don't need one. Sounds like this shop treated him right to me.

 

Tire wear/alignment. Catastrophic failure is still money in their pocket. You'd be surprised what mechanics would do to make money. I had a mechanic 'fix' my wrecked car, when I got home I noticed Oil AND trans fluid leaking still, I look inside, my dip stick had separated from the engine, and some transmission module was leaking at the seal. I take it back "WTF dude, you said it was good", "Oh that must have happened after you left" So he says he'll do it on the house though, I come back, he had replaced the dip stick completely with new parts, AND the transmission module and hit me with a bill for $500. I found the guy out in the garage that did the work and asked to see the old parts, he just laughed and took me out to the dumpster, fished out my perfectly good trans module that had a cracked gasket (2$ part) which I then took back to the head mechanic and he just shrugged. I left and never went back and never heard shit again about a bill. That's just one of the many mechanics I've gone to that have tried to swindle me, I try to do everything myself now because of bullshit like that.

 

Ok, so you had 1 bad experience and you say many mechanics have tried to swindle you. If it is indeed many mechanics as you say, the only common thing there would be you.

Mechanics make money from repeat customers and referrals. The bad one's don't tend to last long.

Edit: At least in my area, the vast majority of mechanics are honest, and I can say that b/c I've dealt with just about every mechanic in the region through work.

 

@VolcomTacoma I hope I didn't offend you bud, not sure why I'm trying to pick fights today...

Anyway..... prob not the thread for this.... I just came here to see how people feel about the hub/bearing assemblies they are getting from this vendor

 

I'm not offended lol. I just came to give my opinion and so did you. Trust me when I say it was much more than 1 bad experience, I just didn't feel like writing a novel about my life story. That being said, I know not all mechanics are untrustworthy, but I can count on one hand the ones I would use. All I'm saying is when someone who wants your money tells you something specific about your vehicle, take it with a grain of salt. I'd like to live off of hopes and dreams as well and believe everyone is nice and out to help me too, but that just isn't reality

 

That's why I started making these DIY pieces. It's very easy for a novice mechanic that has a basic metric tool kit & can rent the torque wrench. I always tell the least eager person that if they have ever replaced their brakes, they're only a few bolts away from replacing the hub assembly.

 

I'm just a few bolts away from doing mine. Despite the snow, usps delivered my hubs/bearings today. If I wasn't clearing snow I'd be in the garage now. Hope to do it saturday morning. Thanks Kev.

 

Call if you have any questions

 

Finished the drivers side and hour ago. Went pretty smoothly. Hardest part was getting the old hub off. All went together nicely, went for a drive and growl gone. Very happy. Left everything out and tomorrow morning I'll knock out the passenger side. Only mistake I made was I thought the c/v dust seals were on the outside of the spindle, so I won't be installing them. I'll offer 'em up to the nj guys cheap.

 

Glad to hear. The cv seals aren't too bad to change. Remove the two 19mm LBJ bolts and you'll be able to swing the spindle out from the cv shaft. Pry the old seal out, 2x4 & hammer the new seal in.

 

Update - passenger side is done and back to smooth quiet driving. Now I can enjoy my new Michelin Defenders.

A few things for those about to do this that I'm not reading 145 pages to see if they've been given.

1st The axle nut caps got pretty banged up being removed. If you wheel in a wet environment either replace them or run a bead of silicone around them when you reinstall. I would not trust them to be water tight.

2nd Get a puller to get the hub assembly off the axle. I dinged up the threads of the axle on the first side a little and had to clean them up with my thread file. Did better on side two but knowing what I know now I would have liked a puller.

3rd The service manual show putting a pry bar across the studs to hold the hub to either remove or re torque the axle nut (173 ft lbs, btw). I don't like this, you can damage the threads. My kid pushed the brake pedal for both off and back on torquing and it held fine.

Lastly, while I'm pretty mechanical - for those that aren't this is a pretty simple and straight forward job. Nothing here to be intimidated by. Hope this helps someone.

 

Ok so
#1 the nut caps shouldn't get that dinged up if you're careful. I have 1 spot on each of mine where I hammered in a flathead to get it started, then just lightly work it all the way around and it shouldn't damage any more. But agree, if you're super worreid (I'm not but probably should be) you can run some silicone around it

#2 Shouldn't need a puller, I use my mallet lightly around the bearing and it pops right off (Also tossing the old bearing so zero fucks if I damage it)

#3 Brake pedal for sure, exactly what I do as well! Cheers!

 

#1 I tried to be careful yet I still beat them up. The 90deg angle you have to hit them from makes it pretty hard. In the video nj636 linked the op isn't running brake bake plates, making it easier.

#2 Some post that it slid right off, some have to beat it pretty good to good to get it off. I don't wheel and figured mine would be pretty clean and be easy. I guessed wrong and it wasn't the case and I had to hammer it more than I expected before it let go. Both sides were like that. If I had had a puller on hand just in case, it would have made my life a lot easier. I should have gone with the "it's better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it" side of things.

Not trying to . I read your "shouldn't" as "may or may not need". Just trying to help the person that takes it as "don't need" and gets stuck.

 

No, I mean you're not wrong. Every situation is different, but being on bearing #3 and having removed about 6 of them now has given me minor experience lol. As per the removal, a deadblow hammer with a whack on each side usually gets the bearing right out. Kind of a rocking motion of hammering back and forth until it pops out enough to just grab it and yank. Other than CV nuts being a bitch to get off sometimes (burred fucking threads twice now), wheel bearings take me about 20 minutes of lazy, slow work lol. If I'm in a hurry prob 10 minutes.

 

Thanks Tom

 

Agreed on may needing a puller or not. Usually steady work with a hammer/mallet will loosen the hub from the spindle. I have had people call me asking how to remove the hub once the bolts were loose because the hub was stuck that bad to the spindle.

Thanks for the input guys

 

I am sending out tracking #'s now for orders going out tomorrow