Power Tailgate Lock

I'm with you

 

Just finished installing a Pop and Lock. Took about 1 1/2 hour, taking my time and without power tools. Would not have been able to install without this thread. Thank you!

 

That's actually a really solid idea. I don't need my tailgate to lock and unlock every time I use the fob or have the tailgate unlock when I shut the engine off. Ideally, I'd have it set to a separate button (like a trunk button on any other car). If I could wire in an enable/disengage toggle switch, that'd go a pretty long way towards convenience. The switch wiring might be a little long to run, but there's some real promise behind it. Thanks for the idea!

For the time being, I'm OK with it locking and unlocking with the passenger door.

 

Thanks for this thread. I used this video, but came u through floor under driver seat through rubber grommet. Used silicone to seal the rubber grommet. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z0TDgh0ug9k
I was adding a USB power plug for rear seats and an LED lightbar so not sure how long it took. Maybe 1 hour? Waiting for my backflip to come in and then I am ready to rock.

 

Mine is finished! About 2 hours to install, took my time to do it right! The hardest part was getting my wiring harness back into those ##$%# plastic clips at the base of the tailgate to securely clip with the added width of the harness. Broke them both, but was able to get them to work.


Solder the wires FTW! I don't believe in cheapo wiring taps that can/will fail over time.

Getting the wire into the cab was a piece of cake! No need to cut that boot, just peel the existing electrical tape off, put a bit of white lithium on the boot, pull the wire through and then tape it back up. With the shroud bolted back on you don't even see the wire at all.


I also got rid of those bullet connectors in the tailgate and soldered them:


After hearing the P&L in action I honestly don't know what everyone is complaining about with regard to the noise of locking/unlocking. Sure, it's a muted "clunk" but so what? It's not that noisy and I don't understand what all of the complaints are about.

This is a great mod! I'm happy.

 

This is for my fellow 2016 Tacoma. This is a tailgate lock upgrade to the 2017 Tailgate lock. I would recommend this mod for the trd sport, off-road, and limited, as we have to different sets of keys. One key for the drivers door and glove box and the other key is for the tailgate. With this mod you can use your key fob key to unlock the tailgate and not have to carry 2 different keys. The part number for the part is 69055-04020 and the list price is 176.92 before tax. To re-key the lock cylinder it cost 65 at my local locksmith. You will not be able to use the keys that came with it because it is already keyed for the lock. The process is the same as installing the pop n lock but with one exception is that before you install the pop n lock you will see the key cylinder and there is a silver spring looking like lock that locks the cylinder in place. Reference picture 6. In order for the lock to come out you need to pry the spring one side and pull the lock cylinder upwards. Once you pull it upwards, the lock should just come right out. Once the lock is out, you can push the new one in place and install the pop n lock. Picture 4 and 5 are reference of the locks. The one on the right is the original and the one on the left is the new lock. Once everything is installed no more carrying two keys and now you can key your key fob only.

 

But then we wouldn't know...

 

LOL. Yeah, kinda like the folks who sell their Tacoma and feel the need to loudly announce their departure?

 

Did my install today, I cheated a little, my topper already had the wired actuator on the topper's back rear glass door so all I had to do was install pop & lock actuator and run wire to splice into service for topper actuator. First few times it was locked and unlocked it did not do a complete lock or unlock then it started work fine. I think my mechanism was a little stiff. Now works fine. Was a quick install about 1 hour.

 

about to order this to make it easier for people any way to update op with instructions or link to pop and lock? thanks again will refer back to this thread for install.

 

Just installed... No problems.

However... one thing took me a while to read through to find the answer.

I did the passenger side splice

There are two sets of green and red wires.

USE THE SMALL green and red wires.

I did use dampener around the area of lock area. I think it helped with the noise.

 

I finally installed my Amazon actuator, but it took me 3 hours... After drilling into the metal to mount the actuator, I painted the holes so had to wait for it to dry. I wanted to run the wires through the existing clips that hold the camera cable, but I couldn't get it to fit, so I ended up drilling new holes (as other posts suggested) but b/c I had already soldered on spade connectors, I had to cut them off, so I decided to go ahead and put in a connector (to allow removal of the tailgate) except I only had more spade connectors. So all of that bloated my install time by an hour.

Next weekend I need to do the following improvements:
- Replace t-taps with solder
- Use silicone to seal the grommet I cut under the passenger seat
- Replace spade disconnect with a waterproof connector
- Replace some split loom (I ran out of 3/8" and had to use 1/2" which is a bit too big).
- Replace cheap 1/8" bolts/nuts holding actuator with metric bolts and nylock nuts

As someone noted, the actuator is not that loud on it's own, I think it's getting amplified by the sheet metal. i saw one person try to put rubber washers on the outside of the sheet metal, but I think adding it on the inside (so it's separating the actuator plastic from the sheet metal) might be more effective so I'll give that a try.

 

I found these washers with bonded rubber in the rubber washer drawer at Home Depot. I used two per bolt to "sandwich" the sheet metal in the tailgate. It reduces the noise of the actuator slightly so it's not as jarring, but it's not as much as I had hoped. It's probably not worth the effort to re-do your mounts, but it does take the edge off of the sound.

Ignore the crappy paint job...

 

Dumb question - after installing the pop n lock can you still manually unlock with the key? Only reason would be if the actuator failed at some future point. Also the video shows getting the wires in the cab via the passenger side firewall. I've seen others reference some entry point on the back of the cab. Is there an advantage to one vs the other?

 

Yes you can still use the key, and it's more preference for routing wires

 

Go through the grommet under the passenger seat, run the wire under the carpet and over to the plastic door sill and then inside the door sill up to the passenger kick panel to tie in.

Super easy.

 

Thanks everyone. Was able to get my pop N lock installed yesterday. Went passenger side route. This became a nessessity when I added a tonneau cover.

 

I did mine today, and I have to switch the bullet connectors as well.

 

I want let the forum know that I ordered exactly was was posted on page two of this thread and completed my install yesterday in about an hour and a half with out any issue. Thank you for a detailed how-to. This is very DIY friendly.