Long Travel BS Thread

I just picked up prp 4.3 and they are really nice

 

One sides tubbed for dem 37s. Pain in the cunt, not looking forward to the other side tomorrow

 

Anyone know the part #for a 2.5 coilover rod end uniball ?

 

normally com 10 bearing

$15 Aurora Bearing Spherical Bearing, COM Series, 0.625 in ID, 1.187 in OD, 0.625 in Thick, Steel, Each

https://www.amazon.com/Aurora-COM-10-1-19-Spherical-Bearing/dp/B003JQLN94

 

Ok cool. I've heard comm10 and comm10-t but not sure if there's a difference

 

everyone is saying he came up to fast into one of the old bomb craters and got bucked. There's a few out their at the east end of the lake bed that are hard to see from my experience being out there all the time.

 

The T added to the PN usually means it has teflon liners.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fkb-fks10t/overview/

http://www.fkrodends.com/FKSSXTFKSSXTV35.html

From Fk's website

~ FOR PTFE LINER ADD "T" TO SUFFIX. ~EXAMPLE: COM12T
(UNITS WITH *PTFE LINERS HAVE NO LUBRICATION HOLES OR GROOVES IN RACE.)

 

Looking for peoples advice:

Between the deaver f67 and the h70 pack or whatever its called now, which would people go with?
If it matters, plan is for dual spares among other equipment, but no fuel cell to stay smog legal

 

H70..f67 suck. You would be riding the bumps

 

We finished 3rd in class 2000 at BAP and our good friends finished 5th in 1450 sportsman while our other friends unfortunately wrecked thier 1450 truck at 91mph end over end( everyone was ok) overall a fuckIn awesome weekend and the work has paid off!!!

 

H70 e 30 50ts all day over f67s. They blow

 

was that the silverado? Did a number to the steering wheel.

 

Yea they dark grey Silverado with the green racelines, end over end bout 6 times, Baylen broke a momo wheel in half with the death grip on his crash, we actually stopped to pull the guys out, snore even credited our stopped time back to us, I'm just glad my friends are safe, nasty wreck

 

Question for you leaf spring geniuses.

I am SUA with a defined kit (stock mounting positions). The leaf pack is perfect for the amount of weight / way I use the truck.

I want to get a little more ride height out of the rear end (2" or so). If I fabricate a set of leaf hangers (rear) that is 2" lower than what I currently have, will I FUBAR geometry up to the point of having problems?

Is this a work-able idea?

 

No, just make sure you cycle, cycle, cycle. You might need to build the hangers so they're like 2" drop, and 1-2" rear movement, then build the shackles with a kick in them. Might be able to do it with straight shackles though.

hanger similar to this, bolts to stock frame location but drops mounting point down and moves it back relative to stock.

 

Was planning on using the same shackle, and just moving the mounting point down 2" or so.

 

I switched from the F-67 to E-30 pack on my old regular cab with dual spares and race jack.

 

Anyone here running Giant Motorsports Rear Link Killer Long Travel Kit? Did you need wheel spacers in the rear for clearance?

 

If you have your TC set up with a coil over and it works pretty good then add a 3xbypass how much valving should be removed from the coil over if any? Asking for a friend that I'm going to be working on.

 

If you're running the 3.0 link killer bypasses you'll more than likely need more than a spacer