Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

I bought the trail gear electric sensor conversion and adapted it to the atlas cable drive gear. It was fairly simple to do.

 

Ah good to know. Might try that too. By the way are you running a 14 bolt to Toyota pinion flange?

 

No I'm not. Just running the factory 1350 yoke. Also running the same size on the atlas so the rear driveshaft is one ton rated.

 

Good to know. Been debating on whether I wanna get a Toyota flange or have my driveshaft modified to a 1350

 

I responded to your question on my build thread btw.

Anyway, I have a factory 1410 yoke

But I had a little bit of drama with my driveline components lol. Originally, I ordered my Atlas with toyota flanges that were trippled drilled I think, which I had to pay extra for.

Lucky me, damn holes wouldn't line up with my tacoma factory drive shafts. I was like, WTF?!! So many holes and not a single pattern would work! Long story short, I ended up getting the right flanges - more money.

My D60 already had a D60-to-toyota flange in the front axle in it way before the SAS started, so that settled the front drive shaft.

My builder convinced me to keep the 14bolt factory 1410 joint, as I explained in my build thread, which I did. I did not want to change the toyota flange on the output of the Atlas - again - so my rear drive shaft has a toyota flange on the tcase end and a 1410 on the axle end.

Wish it was all toyota or all 1ton front/fear for consistency's sake. But sometimes with these projects you just have to roll with what you have as long as it works. Cause each time you change something is more money, more time, more frustration, etc.

 

Yup, going through this same shit on the rear lol. The front shaft worked with the triple drilled flange which needed to be 60x60mm, but the rear shaft, being it's got a CV on it, is 66x66 which none of the atlas flange patterns matched. Been waiting over a month for a new flange from High Angle Driveline.

 

Lol got it now. You're not alone in this mess @allenfab looks like. If I keep the 1350 I'll be fj case output on one end and 1350 on the other. Seems like the cheaper option at the moment.

 

In the picture of the two drive lines the lower one is what I'm running now the first one was just a revised 92 f350 drive line but the new one with CVworks so much better.

 

Misery loves company. Glad to hear I was not the only that had issues with that

These are the "little" things that are annoying as hell.

I think that could be a good idea.

This is where careful planning comes into play if you are going to mix/match with toyota parts and 1 ton parts.

1350s are very strong. Many guys run them with no issues. Some argue that 1410s are overkill. They might be, I don't know. That's what my 14bolt came with, so I kept it. I think they also have a slighter bigger range of motion too.

 

What is the steering box everyone uses? Just the old Toyota boxes or is there a more beefy/modern solution? I am almost tempted to use a jk box if I can fit it.

 

full hydro

 

Do not use a JK box. They mount inside the frame and are weak.

Go IFS mini truck box and hydro assist. Strong, cheap, easy, and they just work.

 

This!

The jeep saginaw boxes arent bad, but getting them to work on a tacoma would absolutley suck, if not impossible since heep boxes mount on the frame rails infront of the radiator. Plus they still need hydro assist to turn big tires.

I used an f150 box because i made the mistake of listening to dumbasses online (one of them a big vendor) that they work fine. Should have went mini truck and HA. Its not horrible, but not ideal.

 

What the hell is a steering box? You mean an orbital?

 

lol X2

 

I got an extra toy ifs box if anyone wants to buy it

 

How much? Is it drilled and tapped for HA?

 

No, it came with the all pro SAS it. AP sells just the box for $429. I was thinking $350 shipped. I actually just bought a complete PSC hydro assist kit that comes with a tapped box so I don't need this one.

 

$429? Holy shit. Gold plated?

 

Nope just AP