Ask a Plumber.

Thank you.

I'll probably have more questions.

 

I really believe in copper over any of the other stuff.

That said, if she's dead set against copper.... I'd use CPVC.
I'd trust CPVCs glued joints before I trusted any of those mechanical joints.

Maybe, the latest and greatest is better now... but, as a licensed plumber, I seem to get a letter every couple of years about a new class action lawsuit involving flexible plastic pipe where the mechanical joints are failing.

 

I'm a licensed plbr also. I'd trust pex or wursbo, both of which I have in my house and have installed in both commercial and resi apps.
Wursbo better of the he 3.

 

Uponor Wirsbo

Less joints and 25 year warranty

Seen way to many crimp joints leak on the other styles of pex.

I do purchasing for plumbing company here in Southern California and we run about 100-120 guys from tract homes to apartment repipes and not only do we recommend it for the cost but a lot of the builders now spec it.


(We have issues with copper pinholes though due to cloramines in the water)

 

When you run the flexible pipe, do you make continuous home runs to an accessible manifold to avoid joints in the walls?
That's one way I'd be more comfortable with it... if the only joints were at a manifold or the fixture stops, nothing hidden IOW

 

Thank you.

It seems that PEX is the direct replacement for the polybutelene. The connections are very similar. I think PEX uses brass instead of copper.

It would be terrible to replace bad pipe with a product that has bad fittings.

 

I like the usage of a manifold concept. Straight runs of individual cold & hot supply lines from manifold to faucet/fixture. I agree that seems better than supply line with T offs for separate fixtures. Less fittings/joints.

The M-I-L's house is single story with a crawl space, hot water heater in utility/work room behind garage. Decent access throughout.

 

Hey guys.

I'm in the planning stages of remodeling my bathroom.

I have 1/2" copper pipe from the shutoff in the basement to everything in the house, so I'm planning on replacing it all with 3/4" copper pipe. Should get better water pressure that way right?

Also I want to install a rain shower head in the ceiling above the bath tub, while still having a normal style shower head with a hose for washing the shower walls or washing the dog, etc. anyone have any experience in this?

After doing a morning of research it seems the best way is to have 2 separate control valves (if that's the proper wording) each run to the main 3/4" pipes so the water pressure is pretty well maintained between the 2 shower heads when used together, and the temp is adjustable individually.

Sound about right?

Thanks.

 

Should I drain my pressure tank before I pump air into it?

 

nope, don't have to

 

I'm not a plumber, so I can't answer. I do know that a rain head will require more volume, so a 3/4" or larger supply is correct. You are confusing volume with pressure though.

Don't expect all the 1/2" supplies to the bathroom to fill your need for volume if you solder in 3/4" pipe(s) to the shower valve and head.


**edit** I see you're replacing all of it with 3/4". cool.

 

I'm trying to figure out how to fix a dripping tub spigot. From what I Yahooed it appears to me that I have to change out the single lever shower cartridge. I kinda have a general idea of what to do but I would really appreciate any input from the pros.

The steps I plan to take:

Shut off main water valve. I'm guessing it's outside next to the meter. Mine looks like this pic.


Assemble tools. Screwdriver, pipe wrench, pliers. Is there a special tool needed to pull out the cartridge or does it depend on the brand? Some YouTube DIY videos show a special tool while other videos don't.

Remove cartridge.

I'm guessing I would have to unscrew the bezel, pry away at the caulking, then remove cartridge. Will the cartridge at least have the brand name on it?

I'll plan further once I remove the cartridge but as of right now am I missing any other steps?

Thanks in advance.

 

Steps up to removal of trim sound spot on. And good job might I add.
I can't tell from pic what brand it is. Look for a name on trim that you're removing .
If still uncertain take plenty of pics before attempting to remove cartridge if uncertain how to remove. Good to be able to have water until you are certain.
Then you might be able to match it up with something at a box store or a plumbing supply.

 

Pretty much what @Kolunatic said. Once you pull the cartridge you're stuck with no water until you reinstall something, be it the old one or a new one. That being said, when you pull the trim plate, the sleeve that surrounds the cartridge housing should come with it. If it doesn't, pull it off. You should then see a nut that holds the cartridge into the valve. Remove that nut. Grab cartridge with channel locks on the brass piece the handle attaches to and pull straight out. If it doesn't come easily you may need to wiggle it side to side as you pull. The videos you see where they're using a puller is for a Moen. Yours is not a moen. I don't recognize it either. You'll probably need to pull it and take it to a supply house for identification. Good luck!

Edit: also make sure to buy some faucet grease and apply it to the new cartridge before you install it. Faucet grease specifically, nothing else.

 

What @mbmack1 said.
It's weird to see different parts of country have different faucets and valves. I've seen different neighborhoods have mixet brand and others just moen etc.
Good luck and be careful.

 

I agree. I'm in arizona and Price Pfister is the most common 3 handle valve in the older houses. We have a guy from Chicago who works for us and he says it's all sayco back east.

 

I blame it on salesman.

 

Do you wear a belt?

 

How do I attach this:


Which is the metal pipe for the overflow for a claw foot tub to the PVC for the P trap?

 

Trap adapter