98 TRD 3.4L Turbo , Methanol , LT

So strange....the air is being pushed into the tb. You'd think that with a more properly matched 2.5" ic with 2.5" charge pipes would allow for a more consistent air push. The turbo doesn't have to fill the larger ic's volume.

 

I should load up my laptop and figure out how to tune. I'm pretty sure I could get a better tune than even the shop that tuned it. They have time constraints and dyno time so once they see it works safe they call it good where I can fine tune for most safe boost psi, most power, and at 11.5afr. Without blowing the engine. Maybe I'll set it to 24psi....lol. An acquaintance said his 4runner ran that safely for years.

 

Can you explain any more? It would be tighter pressure now wouldn't it?

 

LOL I'd be a bit more conservative than that.

 

Well your intercooler probably had a half psi drop across the core. This new one probably has a 2 psi drop. Basically you are getting less mass air flow into your motor. Typical thing is to tweak your fuel table and add a bit more boost to get back to your old power output.

 

I want moraaaaah powahhhh....!!!!

 

If you get into self tuning, take a log of your current setup with the large intercooler as a goal to meet. Start from scratch (pull timing and boost) and build up a map to see if you can make it to your old tune smoothly and safe.

 

Sounds easier than I'm sure it'll be. I'm pretty good with computers so it should be just point and click.....lol.....and hoping I don't detonate the engine. That and a bunch of test runs on a safe straight road. Is there a better gear to make pulls in?

 

most use 4th or 3rd.

 

I use 3rd from 2.5-3k to redline. You want to simulate a clean dyno pull roughly about 10 seconds long so you can get smooth data points. Start out with a whole bunch of timing pulled and low boost. Lots of logs and plot all your stuff in a spreadsheet. More info the better. I'm summarizing this by a lot. I always recommend learning your tune so you know your truck better. When I get some clean weather I might set up my go pro in the cab.

 

Should I start with a map somewhat similar to my current map with a little fuel and timing pulled?

 

I'll try to find something to read up on. You don't want to do that.

 

Don't pull fuel! That's how you blow your truck up. READ READ and READ more and slow careful steps. You go in the wrong direction and that's how you grenade the motor. Gotta know how your piggyback works before playing with a tune. It's not a smart phone. Last thing I want to read is I tried self tuning and blew my motor up. Just saying this as a word of warning.

http://www.vaglinks.com/OBDII/Gadgetonline.com_U-Tune.pdf

Lots of good info in here to give you an understanding.

http://aemelectronics.com/?q=forums/aem-fic-piggyback

They have a forum for your piggyback.

 

Thanks man. I'm on my way home right now and messing with my EBC. Interestingly enough I put my duty cycle to 28%, spring pressure is at 0, and boost is at 9psi I'm running 11.5 afr......

 

The way how the fuel table works you could probably change your boost to get back to your current tune. It's not a process on how to tune an engine.

 

Couldn't you just dial the methanol down a notch? That's what I would do. Now instead of lag, you're getting more restricted flow and more heat (which isn't necessarily worse or better... just different). This new one has different properties. Maybe it causes the post IC'd air to twist more/less, causing the MAF to get barely different readings. Maybe your MAF's IAT sensor reads a higher temp now, so it compensates with extra fuel to keep the engine from damaging itself. It has to be the truck's ECU or its sensors, because the aem stuff is stupid simple and works with MAP.
Try to turn down the meth though. Being a 70/30 mix, there will still be plenty of liquid to cool the charge air down but keep it from running so rich.

 

Open your fuel map, highlight from 15 to max MAP at all rpms, hold control and press the d key 2 times.

It's likely one or both of two things. 1. Your new IC has less cooling meaning air charge has less oxygen for a given volume. The FIC 6 reads MAP only and becuause you're at the same MAP values there is no change in fuel, your afrs become rich. 2. The new IC has different flow, presumably more. The stock fuel table is bracketed by MAF values which are determined by flow, not pressure. You're now in a higher fuel cell on the stock fuel map for any given load.

Both can be solved by removing fuel from the fuel table.

 

Thank you guys for your feedback. Really appreciated. It's running much better now for some reason but there are still hiccup points. It's boosting/spooling faster and the truck literally jumps now more noticeably when boost hits. I can tell whatever happened it's moving even faster than before. Seat of pants definitely noticed. I'm going to tune for more psi. I'm at 9.5 psi right now and I'm not sure how high I can go. I've seen it at 12psi before messing around with things so I forget what spring I ended up with but I may have to replace my spring. I need to look back to see what rate the wg spring is. Only thing now is in 2nd gear it is bogging down a little to 9.5 area before getting up to boost so there are some problem spots. I'm going to download the AEM software soon onto my laptop and see if I can really tweek this thing out. Maybe even push up my psi to 12-15ish and get 400whp. Even at 310whp truck is beast and its hard to control during boost having full LT and no sway bars. 400whp will be downright scary. We'll see what happens guys. Might need some pointers once I start playing with the map tables.

 

You won't have to change your WG spring for more boost. The spring can handle usually 2-3x e the pressure. So if you have lets say an 8psi spring you can boost up to 16-24psi with it just fine. Granted this also depends on the WG and spring brand as each is a bit different. 2x the spring pressure is standard though.

the spring is important for minimum boost as you can not go below the spring rate of course.

Unless you have a 4psi spring then you may want to put in a 8psi one.

 

Yeah I have a tial and I think I may have even seen it go up to 15psi. If I can get it there with my current spring I will because changing a wg spring isn't fun by any means. I want to know exactly what one I got just so I know it's upper limit.