Igor: Double Cab 4x4. Frankenstein's Helper

Nah you should be good! Where did you get your calipers from?

Of....

 

Snow.

 

ha

well..move haha

 

Haven't gotten them yet. I plan on going to Napa to get them. I went a little bit more expensive route. I got EBC pads and rotors and my wheelers lines should be here Thursday

 

Nice! Good call. Though I've heard the ebc pads don't last long enough to make them worth it

 

Damn! We'll I'll test it out. If not I suppose I could get OEM tundra from now on

 

i mean they work good. They just don't last long because of how they work..if that makes sense..haha

 

I know you've been kicking around the idea of doing your own axle seals and bearings when the time comes. I sure wish I had fully understood all of the potential pitfalls when I first started having problems and was looking for solutions.

I came across this ttora thread recently and it highlighted the exact issues I had for ultimately ( ) getting the issues resolved. I guess I don't want you or anyone else to end up having to redo the work like I had to.

 

That same thread came up when I was doing mine.

FWIW, I think the way you press on the retainer won't make a bit of difference, it's really only dependent on how far you press it down. There's lots of room for the retainer to move up and down, are only the small width of the retainer to ride against the seal. That width doesn't change based on which way the retainer is installed.

 

Nice. interesting.

i agree though, it would appear how far the retainer is pressed on is the main point. still i wonder if this makes it easier to line up.

 

No, makes no difference. Just means you press it in farther by the depth of the sholder (3mm based on his diagram) to get the seal to ride in the middle of the retainer.

 

@Blackdawg when you did the tundra upgrade did you do anything special with the brake lines. That's my only thing I think I'll have a problem with

 

Yup, exactly this. When I did mine last time I had the shop press on the retainer and tone ring. I should have just had them press the bearing and then setup the rings myself. I did that the second time and ended up with a much better and accurate setup. I also had a slight issue where the retainer wasn't on far enough and would contact the inside of the axle housing too. So it was a very fine line of being down far enough to not contact the inside of the housing but still ride in the center of the retainer. Such a PITA.



This would be the best I could get. Now that I think about it, running it flipped would make it much easier to achieve without running into the issues I was running into. I know the bevel is there for the ease of not destroying the seal when you put it in, but it also makes lining everything up perfectly much more difficult.

 

define problem..haha

I ended up swapping my line sides to clear my Kings. That is it though. The wheeler lines are good.

the other issue i had was the bolt on the caliper wouldn't go in all the way as the caliper was fubared. Just used 3 washers and its been fine.

Photos of all that in my write up on the install....i guess i should go through and hyper link all that.

 

I think this is where most people and shops get into trouble when doing this job. There seems to be a lot of redos because of this.

 

think thats what your issue was one of the times?

 

Another alternator question. If I upgrade to a 130-160 amp is it necessary to upgrade the wiring to The battery etc.?

 

yes. you'll want at least 4ga wire.

 

Might just go with a whole Bamatoy kit at that point then. Think 200 amp is over kill with winch 2 sets of led pods and some hella halogen? Plus ill be adding more lighting down the road and a dual arb within the next month

 

No such thing as overkill with an alternator.

That said. If you wanna save a few buck, you won't need one that high at all. a 150 is plenty for all that stuff.