Best Subwoofer Brand?

is it a shallow to go behind the rear seats?

 

no, not shallow (which is why im not using it...lol) its in a 14"x14"x14" box

 

Best advice so far!

(best sig too!)

 

I like JL but the sub can still sound like crap if you have a crappy box, or a crappy amp that cannot push enough to the sub also make sure the phms are right and also have a good deck not a jensen and expect it to sound like a comp stero system

 

P2 is only a 250w RMS subwoofer. I think 300w is fine, but anything more than that would damage it, specially 1200

 

oh..lol, well i had a 620w amp hooked up to it and turned it up only about 1/3 of the way, if even that..the sub never kicked its hardest

 

Agreed with the pre-fabbed boxes not being the best choice (unless it's the pre-fabbed box specially designed by the manufacturer for that sub).

The cubic volume of the box needs to be matched with the sub's specs. You can deviate a little in the volume of the box to 'tune' the sound, but the surface area of the sub coupled with the excursion is going to dictate what the sub is capable of.

Generally, as said before, a larger diameter sub will require more power, and hit lower Hz louder and not have as good of a 'punch'. A smaller diameter sub will require less power, not hit lower Hz as loud and give more of a 'punch' sound.

That is general though because one 10" can be capable of completely different ouputs from another 10".

 

Not true. A 12" sub with the same motor structure as a 10" will actually play louder on the same amount of power. The reason for this is that it has a greater cone area (SD) and is more efficient because it can sweep more air. The larger sub will likely HANDLE more power but it doesn't require more; in fact, it REQUIRES less.

You're right about the frequency response though. Typically a larger woofer will have a lower FS (resonant frequency) and will play lower than the smaller version of the same sub. But you can only compare woofers of the same type and series that only differ in size. You can't compare a 12" Image Dynamics IDQ to a 10 Sound Splinter RL-i 10 as their motor structures and design are totally different.

 

Now we're picking the fly sh!t out of the pepper.

If the OP wants a tight punchy bass, go for a sealed 10", or a sealed 12" in a box that is at the smaller cubic volume requirement for that sub.

 

That'd be a Bazooka tube. They're a little harder to mount, but the cylindrical enclosure can give you lower Hz (with volume) from a smaller driver/cone.

They never seem to get much love out in the world, but I had a couple in my 1st gen 5-lug x-cab years ago and was happy with it. Started with a 6" run off a 80-watt sub channel on my amp and after getting my system stolen replaced it with a 8" tube on a 120Watt amp which rattled my outside mirrors when it hit. Of course, an extra-cab 1st gen wasn't all that much volume to fill up, and I also had 4 6.5 inch coax speakers driven off the power amp as well; iirc the last amp I had was rated for 50W(RMS)x4 +120W(RMS)x1 so the gains on the amp were locked in at around 60-70% of max because of the small space.

Not sure what bazooks cost these days, and wasn't actually sure if they were still around, but they are a ported "organ pipe" enclosure (not sure how carefully they're tuned at the factory) and will definitely move a lot of air, so if you're looking for a tight sounding sub probably isn't ideal.

 

JL is great its what i have... they make all kinds of subs that are all very well made and will meet you're needs im sure.. but a big thing is price with them. A 10" or 12" w3 in a sealed box is an option you might want to look into. not to expensive but still delivers good clean bass. a lot of people view JL as just "the name" and not so much quality or performance compared to other companies. I strongly disagree. my experience with JL subs is very good an i am sold on them. But it is pricy and depending on what you want you should look around at different names. JL is the standard in my book, but there are plenty of other brands out there that are very good too. with whatever you get Just be sure to match your amp with the sub. And Ohms refer to resistance. Make sure you look at the ohms on whatever sub you get compared to your amplifier. An amp and sub may need the same watts but it has to be delivered at the same ohm or it will be over/under powered. An amp will say its power ratings at different ohms on the box.



This shows how it works. The Power offered will not necessarily match what is needed if not at the right ohm. All the specs should be on the boxes. also look at the rws ratings for watts not peak. the rws ratings is what you need to match up

 

AudiQue and RE subs are better than kicker, JL, rockford fosgate, or anything like that hands down.


What is your budget?

 

With JL, you're paying for the name.... That's what they mean. No one argues that JL isn't quality equipment or that it doesn't perform well, but when you have a huge price tag like that, you're not paying for the quality anymore, just the name.

Let me give you an example....
12" W7 - 450
12" Fi Q - ~280

12W6 - 300
12" RE SE - 150

See how much more you're paying for the same quality and performance?

 

^Depends on what you consider the same performance. If you just want stupid loud I'd say that W7 could out pound the Fi Q. And the W6 is a great sounding woofer, there's not a lot of people who would argue against that. Better than the RE IMO.

I agree that with JL you're paying a lot for the name. But their products are still great in either case.

(+1 though for comparing PRODUCTS though )

 

I'll never give up my 10W7, best sub I've ever heard for a single 10" sub, and I've heard many many setups.

 

My personal favorite is the Peerless XXLS 12" sub single 8ohm. I have two of them in the house, each in 1.3 cubic foot sealed enclosures and they are heaven. I sold my home audio sub amp a long time ago and I need to get a new one. These ladies haven't moved in a looooong time and I miss them.

 

I prefer JL Audio myself, but as mentioned, all depends on application and what you're going for. I have an 8" JL in the Taco and had a 12" JL in my Impala SS.

 

If you don't mind spending money JL W7 I have one best subwoofer on the planet. So clean and you couldn't blow it if you wanted to.

 

Wanna bet?

 

W7 isnt an spl subwoofer like many people use them for True it can outpound an Fi Q, but i bet it couldn't be louder than the BL which is pretty much the SPL version of the Q.

The reviews i've heard of the SE vs the W6 are that the W6 is better sound quality, but not by far.

I never argued that the products dont perform well.