Brice's NA V6 Build

I was also wondering, if you use MAF intercept with larger fuel injectors and take away fuel in vacuum by altering the MAF voltage that the Toyota ECU sees, will this make the ECU think there is less load on the engine and therefore advance the timing more?

 

Dont know for a fact but from my experience the timing advance is based mostly if not entirely on the knock sensor. The timing is pretty much always maxed out in vacuum anyway since you'll be running at least 91 with a turbo.

 

Is there any worries about too much advance before 3000 RPM when the knock sensors are active?
Would it be wise to retard the timing a bit below 3000RPM?

 

What are you using to retard timing? My piggyback runs off MAP and works pretty well. I can imagine pulling timing off engine speed to be pretty ineffective. The biggest concern for me is part throttle boost and that is where the ecu cuts the most timing. 12 psi at 13.5 afr and I see 25 degree retard at most. Which is inside the stock ecu's range so it's not a huge concern. This is all at like 40-60F ambient though. As long as your afrs are rich-good you shouldn't have any significant detonation issues.

 

I would use the MAPCAL3 to control the timing.
I thought the Toyota ECU only monitors knock above 3000RPM so if you are making part throttle boost below 3000RPM you could have too much advance and the ECU wouldn't correct it.
I will also have Methanol/Water injection start spraying progressively starting at 1psi which should help as well.

 

I don't know a ton about it but I've never heard that about the knock sensor. Can you provide a source? From my experience detonation most readily occurs at high load and low rpms so that's why I'm scratching my head.

 

Looks like I was wrong according to service manual it is monitored between 2000-5600RPM

DI-204
-DIAGNOSTICS ENGINE (5VZ-FE)
464Author: Date:
2001 TOYOTA TACOMA (RM835U)
DTC P0325 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1)
DTC P0330 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2)
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION Each knock sensor is fitted to the right bank and left bank of the cylinder block to detect engine knocking. This sensor contains a piezoelectric element which generates a voltage when it becomes deformed, which occurs when the cylinder block vibrates due to the knocking. If engine knocking occurs, ignition timing is retarded to suppress it.
DTC No. DTC Detection Condition Trouble Area
P0325
No signal of knock sensor 1 to ECM with engine speed between 2,000 rpm and 5,600 rpm
Open or short in knock sensor 1 circuit Knock sensor 1 (looseness) ECM
P0330
No signal of knock sensor 2 to ECM with engine speed between 2,000 rpm and 5,600 rpm
Open or short in knock sensor 2 circuit Knock sensor 2 (looseness) ECM

 

Did you tap the threads on these? I think i'll be trying this this weekend maybe on my truck. But probably put the sensors on the block exterior as I don't wanna take off the blower and Intake.

 

Go for it, it's fairly straight forward.

You gotta take off the lower intake to get to the harness, and no the they thread right in Make sure you get SU1075 SPECIFICALLY. If you don't the resistance will be off and it'll throw a code potentially.

 

Ah damn. You can't just disconnect the harness without taking it off? was gonna buy a whole new harness and just leave the old one to die..haha

 

I don't remember if you can get the the rear most plug where it splits... But if you can then go ahead, although I'd say you'll have to lengthen the new stock harness.

 

Thank god I was about to be real worried

 

was planning on it. Give it a go i suppose.

 

No doubt, shouldn't be much boost below 2000RPM

 

3"

 

I didn't see this till now, but larger exhaust taking power is a myth, and a larger exhaust can significantly improve spool. Although I must say I tend to like the tone of exhaust through a smaller pipe...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_PVXvHkr-Vs&index=10&t=753s&list=PLGvTvFzdMg_O2T3UdUEt5dIHutSOu7srE

 

this is important. And better flow.

Remember, a motor is just a giant air pump. When you add FAI you want as litte resistance as possible for the air to leave the motor because you're already forcing in the air to flow more.

If that makes sense.

 

Yupp! EBay injectors too. Another false belief thinking Ebay or "Chinese" is garbage. Lol. And I think you're right about that Gadget dude.

 

Umm the urd injectors are $54 a piece so that would be $324 for a set for a v6 and urd has a tw discount of like 5% just sayin... Not bashin anything or anyone cuz i have plenty of ebay stuff in my build but i did go with urd for injectors because they came with an adapter harness ($11 a piece i think) and i got my fuel pump kit there also

 

My ebay injectors were $254 at the time and were a direct plug in