DIY: Full Flush for Automatic Transmission

Here are a couple of pics from my '12 RM :

2017-02-21_190311 by Fury1961, on Flickr

2017-02-21_190551 by Fury1961, on Flickr

I see that customtacos link is for a 2006 MY Tacoma.
I guess the 115 to 130 is for older A750's. I'm not sure what MY they lowered the check temp to 97 to 115 but it would be prudent to find out what the check temp for your particular MY.

I pulled my overflow plug as soon as I got to 98 on my Scanguage so I am at the high end of the fluid level range.

 

Is there any merit to the belief of not taking your ride in for a transmission flush. Pushing particles into the nooks and crannies of the transmission? Not saying this is the case but I hear it from time to time.

 

Good job!
How did you select the tranny fluid?
My service manual specifies a different fluid depending on whether you have the 4 or 5 speed automatic tranny.

Never mind, I found it on the ARF spec sheet.
http://content.valvoline.com/pdf/maxlife_atf.pdf

Could you please send ordering info for the drill powered pump?

 

Well I ordered all the washers, gaskets, and even some oem oil filters today, but I don't have a scan gauge ......

 

Click on it at the bottom of the page under "Products Discussed in this Thread"

 

I did this for my 2005 Toyota 4runner v6 4l. The process worked perfectly exactly as described. My 4runner had 250,000k miles when I did this. I'm not the original owner so I don't know if a fluid change had been done before. when I opened the check screw to inspect the trans fluid it came out with a good viscosity but the color was dark brown. because of the high miles & color I decided to change the fluid. I used 3 gallons of "Valvoline Maxlife full synthetic ATF". on the back of the jug it stated that it was compatible with my Toyota SW fluid. I found it useful to have some duct tape, a few trash bags, an oil pan, and lots of paper towels and gloves on hand during this job. I used the duct tape to keep my hoses from falling out of their positions. When I was finished I did the recommended fluid level check and drained out an extra 1/2 quart as expected. I saved that 1/2 quart with my leftover quart of unused ATF fluid. I figure the fluid might not be perfect but it was worth keeping. After the 3 gallon flush my trans fluid is almost perfect color. Its only slightly darker than the new fluid. I'm going to routinely check the fluid every other oil change or so. I'm hoping i can get another 100k miles before changing it again. If the oil gets really dark again though I might change every 50k.

Doing the project myself took about 3 hours. I took breaks & took my time. I took notes on how much fluid i was adding and how much came out. I also checked the color change after each 2.5 quart flush interval. Not something you want to rush.

After the flush my transmission is preforming the same as it was pre-change. I wasn't having any problems with the transmission before. I read somewhere that if your already having transmission problems its probably too late. Adding new fluid to a car that has black sludge for ATF with cause more problems than it will fix. I think I probably could have not done this and the car would be fine for another 50k but why risk it. It only cost $75.00

I've also flushed my break fluid & power stearing fluid. Next I will be checking the differentials.

 

So going through 34 pages of comments takes awhile and I gave up. So, are people still doing a flush this way? How are you not starving the planets and bushings with this method?

 

Several ways to perform this.

 

Yes, lots of us doing this. You never run the pump dry if you do it 2 quarts at a time. As long as there's is enough fluid in the pan for the filter to pick it up, the transmission is getting lubricated as it should.

 

I understand the procedure, and I guess since a lot of people are doing it and not crying their tranny blew up x number of 1000 miles later, it must be fine. There are parts that are turning other than the TC and the pump when in park. I haven't found a flow diagram for the tranny to know if those moving parts are receiving lube during the process. NOT all trannys can survive a bucket flush. Just want to make sure this tranny is up to the process before I proceed. Then I need to determine if the Tundra tranny can handle it too.

 

Well, get back to us after you "make sure the tranny is up to the process"

 

I have done this on a number of transmissions, never lost one. The Tundra can handle it just fine. Pin the thermostat open and go for it. As long as the filter is picking up fluid, everything is getting lubricated. If the cooler lines start spitting or having air bubbles in the fluid you'll know you've ran too much fluid out, a few seconds isn't likely to hurt it. I've seen people actually let their vehicles run until the trannies start sucking air on purpose to get as much fluid out of the pan before refilling as possible, I wouldn't do that intentionally, but I've never seen one die from doing that. There aren't any parts in an automatic transmission that are splash lubricated by the fluid in the pan(as far as I know, correct me if I'm wrong). On most transmissions if there isn't enough fluid in the transmission, the cooler circuit/flow to the Torque converter is the first to be cut off in order to maintain line pressure and lube to other more immediately critical parts of the transmission. There are some transmissions that you can't do this method on, like some Ford trucks, which must be hot flushed due to having an internal/non-manually openable thermostat. But do tell me which transmissions CANNOT handle being bucket flushed... seriously. Depending on the transmission, you can either do it or you can't. If you're scared to do yours, don't do it, pay the dealer or an independent mechanic.... or drive it till it grenades and thank the stars that you didn't kill it years ago with a bucket flush... it's your truck, do what you want. But don't come on here and tell the rest of us that we're killing our transmissions by doing something that many of us and other people have proven over the years to work. It's not like we invented this process for the Toyota Tacoma, this has been going on for longer than the a750 has existed. I've seen this done on Honda, Acura, Toyota, GM, Dodge, Jeep, Chrysler, Ford, Suzuki, Kia... basically all kinds of domestic and foreign vehicles. The principle design and operation of most automatic transmissions is more or less the same.

 

Here's a link for you, @Krohsis . Sonnax

 

Thanks for the info. I used this process on my 2012 and it worked great.

 

Is that from a Toyota RM? I wonder if Toyota checks them on the assembly line at the higher end of the temp range and that's partly why they're low from the factory? Maybe they realized this and modified their temp check range on newer models? Then again the newer ones are under filled too...so idk. Just speculating here. I would actually love to see how they are filled at the factory... wonder if they'd give me a tour? Lol

 

Edit: Those pics are blurry, so use the linked PDF for better quality. Keep in mind that this is from an FJ Cruiser book, but is the same A750 transmission used in the Tacoma.

 

Also just found this: RockAuto has Aisin WS ATF for $6.17 per quart. I can get 12 Quarts shipped to me for $85.03. Pretty good deal in my opinion. Brings the shipped price per quart to $7.09... not terrible.

 

I did this today with just pulling one hose; not even draining the pan; You take the Top hose off your Transmission cooler if you got the tow package. Take the hose off the cooler; not the hardline that returns to the transmission. (Look at the two hoses coming from the radiator support; the TOP hose is the one you want to take off; not the bottom one.)

Get a 3/8's Hose barb adapter and attach that to the Hose going to the return line that goes back to the transmission. Get some 3/8 ID clear tubing from your local hardware store; 4 feet is enough. Attach the clear tubing to the transmission cooler.

Get yourself a Garden Pump sprayer; the ones where you fill them up with water or whatever and spray your plants with. I got one from wal-mart for 8 bucks. Remove the plastic nozzle at the end of the sprayer; it should just twist off and cut about 6-8inches of the clear tubing, then twist/force the tubing onto the end of the nozzle you just twisted off(Make sure to remove the little white plastic insert that's usually found in the sprayer nozzle after you twisted off the nozzle)

Start the engine; you should see ATF Fluid coming out of the clear tubing that you've put in the drain pan or bottle; measure about 2.5 quarts.

Get your Garden Pump Sprayer and fill it with ATF Fluid; attach your custom nozzle into the hose barb on the return line that you attached the hose barb to earlier; Pump in 2.5-3quarts. Garden Pump sprayer works so much better than a hand pump and its super cheap. (I got the idea from Crom; whom I would like to thank and give credit for the idea)

Rinse and repeat until you have pumped out 12quarts and pumped back in 12quarts; reattach everything and your done; Then go do the ATF level check; For some reason mine required another quart; pumped that back in and I was good to go. I don't know how anyone is checking their trans temp at 115F_ I couldn't even get past 96F without revving the engine to get the trans to heatup after letting it idle for 15minutes. Revving it then stopping my trans temp dropped down again. That OEM cooler works great it seems lol.

Should've taken some photos; I'll get photos of my garden pump sprayer setup tomorrow. I used Valvoline MaxLife ATF; after much debate I went with it because it was cheaper than the OEM WS Fluid and if Valvoline is willing to stand behind their product and say no warranty loss; I figure why not; No regrets so far and trans is shifting smooth as butter.

 

I like to drain the pan first, then refill through the cooler line as you mentioned. I never pull the fill plug out anymore.