Squeaky Penguin's (Trip Reports) Build Thread

Brett when you did your rear brakes, i remember you saying OEM pads only. Did you do OEM drums too?

 

You might be getting me confused with Old Brett, as he runs OEM shoes. I had issues this past year and never tracked down exactly what it was. Putting a lot of the blame towards the Wagner shoes and hardware kit as that was the only real change after doing the rear axle seals.

I just installed NAPA shoes, drums, and hardware a couple weekends ago in hopes of fixing my problem. Only driven the truck a couple miles since then though, so no feedback yet. Before they got soaked in gear oil, I had NAPA premium shoes for like 60K miles and they were working great.

 

Well i won't mine buying OEM shoes. But i wouldn't mine not having to run OEM drums. Would make rear brakes a $400 project.

What say you old man Brett? @Star-Lord

 

I've always run parts store brakes on the rear of my 4Runner and Tacoma without any issues fwiw

 

OEM shoes for sure, I've had much better luck with them.
Are you needing to replace the drums too? I asked about that at the dealer here, and they said they have yet to sell a set. They seem to last a long time.
I tried a set of O'REILLY shoes at first, they didn't grab well with the e-brake.
When I did the bpv upgrade, I went and changed the shoes to OEM. The difference is huge, there is much more pad on the surface compared to the aftermarket. E-brake works great now. I need to pull the drums, it's been almost a year, and see what kind of wear I have.

 

I'm pretty sure my driver side drum is fucked up. have a bad vibe and sound from that side.

I'll order some OEM pads and pull the drums and if i need a new drum just get a Napa one it sounds like.

Thanks Brett(s)

 

Brett is it possible you could provide some photos of the table you installed on your bumper at the end of last year? I recall seeing a couple photos during the initial install, but I'd like to see it with a little more detail if available.

 

Just curious while we on the subject. Is general consensus to replace or resurface drums every time like rotors?

 

I'll try to remember to grab some tomorrow morning. It's just 3 little hinges welded to some light gauge steel. A wingnut to hold it closed, and some cable to hold it open.

They probably should be turned when shoes are replaced. Which isn't all that often if everything's working correctly. My old drums had a lip on the inside that made taking them on and off a pain. Didn't measure if they had enough material on them to resurface.

 

Gotcha. Do they get high risk of warping after that like discs do? Or not so much since they do so little braking?

 

One thing to think about when turning drums depending on how worn the drum is and how much is taken off during turning is the arc of the shoe vs. the arc of the drum. You can get into a situation where for some period of time you are only braking on a small area of the shoe which I believe typically ends being the trailing edge of the shoe the way that things shift with the drum pulling in the forward direction of travel. I have not turned a set of drums in quite a while but the NAPA auto parts I used would also arc the shoes. they would basically grind some material from the shoe, mostly at the center and tapering towards the leading and trailing edges to match the arc of the shoe to the new arc of the drum. This was probably more important when doing drums on vehicles with 4 wheel drum braking systems as you really need everything working perfectly and evenly so the car doesn't pull or dart one direction or the other under braking.

Just something to think about. Great build by the way!

 

I was turned on to your thread from looking into replacing a leaky axle seal and a bad bearing in my truck. It's got the axle from your model / year truck and I noticed that you replaced the bearing and axle seal sometime last year. Have you had any issues from it since then? I like your truck - it's quite similar to how I would like mine to be when it's all set up

 

Less braking, more metal. I think it would be hard to warp them.

That makes sense, never heard of anyone doing it though.

They've been holding out perfectly. Not a drop of oil past the seals.



@alee891 I might remember to take a picture of my table one of these days.

 

I'm in no rush. Just want to see what I can set my beer on this spring

 

@alee891 here's all it is:

IMAG0177 by brettbjorgum, on Flickr

Anyways, getting closer to wheeling season got me motivated to start working on this pile. Got some frame boxing plates on the way, and want to redo the rear shocks, so I got the truck pulled in the garage and bed off. Thanks @Night Eagle for the help!

Just don't let Leo close to your rig with a sawzall:

IMAG0178 by brettbjorgum, on Flickr

My shock crossmemeber prevented us from getting the factory spare tire crossmember out, so it got cut out.


Anyways, got it up on jackstands, and drooped out the leaf pack for interest sake. Pulled the keeper bolts out to see what that did to droop too. Will be cycling and measuring for shocks shortly.

IMAG0180 by brettbjorgum, on Flickr

 

Just a disclaimer Brett handed me the sazawl and said do you want to cut the cross member and I said yes.

 

Leo your doing it all wrong. Your suppose to cut down right behind the cab

 

What are you thinking for shocks?

 

Just doing mountain people things...