Power sliding window mod info thread

just to confirm, these are part #'s for a 17' taco? i cross referenced the part #'s for the motor, metal bracket, cable assembly and switch. Everything is the exact same other then the cable assembly haha

 

Yes 2017 taco parts

 

who knew wiring a switch could be so complicated haha based off the info given so far i want to say E is 12v cuz it makes sense but then like u said, where's the ground lol i think your best bet would be to plug and play on a work bench with a 9v battery and a multimeter. 12v would make sense because it seems like when u push or pull the E terminal then goes to pin 6/4. i find it hard to believe that the illumination - terminal would be a common ground if it requires its own separate +12v.

 

For the hookup you would likely want to use the two outputs to either trigger DPDT relays or a one touch window module.

I recall when I traced the outputs that the switch wasn't built in a way that it could directly power the window. For that you would need two outputs that could rotate between ground and +12v depending on the switch position. If I had to guess on the 2017 the two outputs go to the body ECU and the ECU then would control the window.

 

hmmmm i get what your saying, I'm just trying to visualize the wiring, what stumps me is the fact theres only 2 wires from the motor. is one wire + and the other - or are they each a +12v, one to rotate one way to open and the other to rotate back to close? if one is + and the other -, how does the motor know which way to turn? sorry if these seem like dumb questions, i promise you I'm not stupid hahaha I'm just not 100% sure how the motor functions, once given an explanation i will understand lol

 

The motor is nice and simple:

Wire 1 = ground
Wire 2 = +12v
Travel in one direction

Wire 1 = +12v
Wire 2 = Ground
Travel in opposite direction

 

everything is the same as the tundra?

 

other then the cable assembly yeah

 

okay so it works the same as a standard fan motor in a furnace lol well now we are getting somewhere. so if your going to have to run relays and all that fun stuff would it not just be easier to run a dpdt switch?

 

Sorry I haven't been keeping up with the updates. I manage to hook up the switch but I only got the illumination to work, no-go on powering the motor. I tried different combinations with that "E" pin and still nothing, either that or I was doing it the wrong way. Not really an expert on wiring things up. There's a total of 7 pins, with the sheet that @Citadel provided only 5 is shown being used, 1-2-4-6-8. So what's pin 3 & 7 utilize for then?? It'll be great/appreciated if someone figures it out.

@Citadel any chance of putting up some pics of your install? Curious on what tweaks Toyota made on those plastic cubbies for the motor assy to fit on that back panel on the 3rd Gens. By any chance did you get a wiring harness for the motor?

@Bocsy44 I ended up going this route instead of putting the plate on a separate bracket. Cleanness way I could think of. Krazy glued the bolt first, let it set then used JB weld. Not to familiar with how JB weld holds up for the long run but it does feel solid. I'm still trying to locally source out the #10-32 X 3/16" set screws but with no luck. That pull-pull bracket is useless without it.

 

Here are some pics.
I mounted the stock 2027 tacoma motor mount plate to the rear wall using metal straps and screwed then into the braces.

 

There is a stock connector you can get from toyota that plugs directly into the pins on the motor and will serve as a harness.
See this pic for the connector part number and the part numbers for the terminals.

 

With the 2016 plastic storage bin/ wall trim thingies... there is plenty of room for the motor.... everything is concealed just like a factory 2017 Tacoma.

 

Here is an idea on the wiring for the switch. Would someone be able to test to see if this works?

 

I'm pretty sure that is how BenWa offered his kit with a DPDT switch. The "problem" or at least for some is the DPDT switch that had a high enough current rating to operate the motor directly was not a very stock looking option.

That looks like it would work just fine. In your drawing pin 2 would need to be a ground supply. Also pin 86 for each relay should be a 12v source that is only powered when the key is turned in the ignition... something like a add a fuse coming from the "ACC" slot. Then the window could only be opened and closed with the truck running or at minimum the key turned to ACC or on.

Or if you wanted to be able to open and close the window at anytime then you would provide pin 86 with a constant 12v supply.

 

Did the area you chose allow full concealment with the bins put back in place?

 

@adio I like the way its mounted, I would imagine it should hold up just fine. it does look clean! have your tried placing the plastic bins back in with the motor just zip tied in place? as long as everything does not surpass that support bracket running horizontally, maybe we will get lucky and not have to modify anything? I haven't looked behind my seats recently but I would imagine that they would rest against that one been thingy and not curve around it (if that makes sense hahaha) I'm guessing the #10-32 X 3/16" set screws are what hold the wire assembly to the bracket itself?

 

I agree with @Up2NoGood that will actually work if you put Pin 2 as a source to ground for the coil completing the circuit. so when u push the switch it grounds the coil, energizing the coil (pins 86 and 85). it will close pin 30 to 87 sending 12v to the motor and it will have a path to ground thru the normally closed pins 30 and 87a in the apposing relay

 

Ok so basically follow the diagram I posted and just connect pin2 off the switch to ground and we are all set?

 

yeah man, I just spent a quite a bit of time going thru it cuz I thought it was wrong, but after finding out what pins are what I went thru it and sure enough, if u ground pin 2 you should be good, a lot of damn wires to run hahaha but good to go haha if u put the relays under the hood that's 4 wires to run into the cab assuming u ground the pin 2 locally in the cab lol I'm thinking if you put the relays under the dash somewhere u could get away with running one heavy enough gauge wire into the cab and splice off of it and ground everything to the cab? you happen to know the amp draw of the motor?