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Mid Travel BS 2.0

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by 2ndGenJonny, Jan 12, 2016.

Page 224 of 315
  1. Feb 14, 2017 at 8:54 PM
    #4461
    Evenflow

    #4461
    Evenflow Well-Known Member

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    Yes
    So...you got more up travel than fender flare clearance ? Better hack those babies up before you go froadin'
     
    Evenflow, Feb 14, 2017
    #4461
  2. Feb 14, 2017 at 9:26 PM
    #4462
    MojaveMadman

    #4462
    MojaveMadman Cali Raised LED

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    Set the bumps so that it bottoms out right as the tire starts to touch the fender. But I sure would love some 2" fenders like the stock looking fronts that McNeil makes...
     
    MojaveMadman, Feb 14, 2017
    #4462
  3. Feb 14, 2017 at 9:34 PM
    #4463
    VolcomTacoma

    #4463
    VolcomTacoma Well-Known Member

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    F all that.

    images_05c32f42e080854e5522b032cb2ab0de2bc64746.jpg
     
    VolcomTacoma, Feb 14, 2017
    #4463
    MojaveMadman[QUOTED] likes this.
  4. Feb 14, 2017 at 9:38 PM
    #4464
    Evenflow

    #4464
    Evenflow Well-Known Member

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    Did you limit available travel to save fenders and flares ? the pics look like the tires are big in those OE fenders. Those McNeils do look good on stock width trucks, too bad they don't make matching bedsides too.
     
    Evenflow, Feb 14, 2017
    #4464
    MojaveMadman[QUOTED] likes this.
  5. Feb 14, 2017 at 9:49 PM
    #4465
    MojaveMadman

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    MojaveMadman Cali Raised LED

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    Sorry I thought you were talking rear end...

    Ya the 285's are big in the front. I trimmed a lot of front and rear plastic, but the top/center of the inside is still intact. When I bumped the front it did touch a little bit. But we will see how it does. I didn't have any problems with the Icons so I have high hopes!

    But ya as soon as McNeil makes a matching rear I may have to jump on a full set. I'm too OCD to have them on the front and no rears haha.
     
    MojaveMadman, Feb 14, 2017
    #4465
  6. Feb 14, 2017 at 9:59 PM
    #4466
    Evenflow

    #4466
    Evenflow Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, I feel the same way I hate the way front glass with stock bedsides look...the fit and finish of most of the fiberglass stuff makes my OCD twitch too :)
     
    Evenflow, Feb 14, 2017
    #4466
    MojaveMadman[QUOTED] likes this.
  7. Feb 14, 2017 at 10:05 PM
    #4467
    Boomkanani

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    Boomkanani Well-Known Member

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    Some stuffz
    Oh that's what "One and Done" means. Thought that was a term to describe my sex life
     
    Boomkanani, Feb 14, 2017
    #4467
    Dalandser, deadhed61, Nickel and 2 others like this.
  8. Feb 26, 2017 at 5:31 PM
    #4468
    Arcticelf

    #4468
    Arcticelf Well-Known Member

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    @jberry813 that uni-ball soaked in brake cleaner gave it up last week. All the others are tight and quite, this one spit out chunks of pfte. We'll see when the rest of them fail for comparison.
     
    Arcticelf, Feb 26, 2017
    #4468
  9. Feb 26, 2017 at 5:44 PM
    #4469
    jberry813

    #4469
    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    ...too much shit to list.
    Kinda figured it would. Brake cleaner is corrosive to almost everything.

    Food for thought. The uniballs used in pretty much every aftermarket UCA I'm aware of all have a PTFE woven fabric liner. PTFE has once of the lowest coefficients of friction of every solid piece of material on earth. Seriously, it's the same shit used in non-stick cookware. By adding lube...you are actually doing the opposite of lubing and just giving dirt and debris something to adhere too. Ever drop some salt into a non-stick pan? Turn the pan upside down and it falls right out. Now put some oil in a non-stick pan and add salt........

    [​IMG]
     
    jberry813, Feb 26, 2017
    #4469
    Dalandser, Arcticelf[QUOTED], Airdog and 1 other person like this.
  10. Feb 26, 2017 at 5:47 PM
    #4470
    glorifiedwelder

    #4470
    glorifiedwelder IG= @Liquid_Torch

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    I don't lube the uniballs on my personal truck. I wipe the dirt off but don't lube them and they last quite a while. When it comes to installs on other people's trucks I just follow the manufacturers instructions, that way I can't be blamed for premature failure.
     
    glorifiedwelder, Feb 26, 2017
    #4470
    Arcticelf likes this.
  11. Feb 26, 2017 at 5:52 PM
    #4471
    jberry813

    #4471
    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    ...too much shit to list.
    On my last truck I lubed them twice in 5 years. Never any slop or play. Only washed them when they were squeaking or obviously dirty. Most the time you just need water. If you have to use lube, literally just a couple drops is all that's needed...and don't do that until you wash them. Any more than that (inclusive of dry lube) and you just give the dirt something to stick to which eventually tears the liners.
     
    jberry813, Feb 26, 2017
    #4471
    Arcticelf and Bsheriff11 like this.
  12. Feb 26, 2017 at 6:38 PM
    #4472
    Acerwin

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    Acerwin The unNORM NORM

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    IMG_0356.jpg
    A little fun today
     
    Acerwin, Feb 26, 2017
    #4472
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  13. Feb 27, 2017 at 4:48 AM
    #4473
    Arcticelf

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    Arcticelf Well-Known Member

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    Lots of silt in the water where we wheel, so they get squeeky if not cleaned and lubed (proven by experiment). But way less lube that I was using, and a thinner/lighter lube too.
     
    Arcticelf, Feb 27, 2017
    #4473
  14. Feb 28, 2017 at 10:22 AM
    #4474
    Squeaky Penguin

    #4474
    Squeaky Penguin Nothing Ventured, Nothing Gained

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    Maybe the MT gurus can help me out, although I know there's not a ton of 1st gens in here.

    After years of half-assing it, I'm taking the time to get my setup dialed properly now. Pulled the bed and cycled the leafs. Old setup FWIW, 10" 7100 short bodies, leaf pack was a bastard pack based on a Wheelers 5 pack:

    [​IMG]IMAG0180 by brettbjorgum, on Flickr

    Full droop is more than I could realistically get due to spring retainers etc. Shackles are about to invert as well:

    [​IMG]IMAG0186 by brettbjorgum, on Flickr

    Bumps were setup to work with my last shocks, not around the leafs as they should have been. Couldn't compress them without lifting the frame off the jackstands:

    [​IMG]IMAG0188 by brettbjorgum, on Flickr

    Springs are pretty negative, and would be even more when the bumps compress fully. Therefore, realistic travel with bumping the leafs flat, and spring retainers installed, might be 9 inches (measured about 10 inches with current config).

    So, any other SOA packs that will net more travel? What about a bumped and strapped SUA pack? Not sure I want to put a ton of effort into setting up my current pack for 9" of travel, but do think I can get 12" shocks under the bed.
     
    Squeaky Penguin, Feb 28, 2017
    #4474
  15. Feb 28, 2017 at 10:30 AM
    #4475
    jberry813

    #4475
    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    ...too much shit to list.
    You won't fit 12's under the bed without cutting into the bed or angling them really far back. And when you angle them that much, you loose dampening when you need it most (compression cycle). You can do 12's outside the frame with a shock hoop, but not without wheel spacers.

    Personally I'm at the point where the only pack I recommend are custom packs. Built to suite your needs, your weight, and your mount points. But custom packs normally come with a 4 digit price tag.
     
    jberry813, Feb 28, 2017
    #4475
    Squeaky Penguin[QUOTED], Arcticelf, Goobersbro and 1 other person like this.
  16. Feb 28, 2017 at 12:06 PM
    #4476
    Cr250jumper

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    Cr250jumper Señor member

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    Something I have always wondered when cycling leafs, I would assume when you bump a full leaf kit while driving it does not make this funky S curve like it does when you cycle a single leaf. Doesn't change much but that was why I preferred mounting my rubber bumps on the frame in case the axle rotation is a little different
     
    Cr250jumper, Feb 28, 2017
    #4476
  17. Feb 28, 2017 at 12:30 PM
    #4477
    Squeaky Penguin

    #4477
    Squeaky Penguin Nothing Ventured, Nothing Gained

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    I'll measure tonight, but was thinking with an over the top cap, and welded rod ends I could get them short enough, maybe not. Also sitting on a 1" body lift I've been debating putting on, that could get the upper mount up another inch. Last setup had the shocks angled back quite a bit, and was planning on not doing that again.

    Clearance would be tight outside the frame even with spacers, not sure that's the route I want to go anyways.

    I don't mind spending the money for performance, but what it looks like I'm seeing and what I'm hearing, is that between stock mounting point limitations, and shock placement limitations, you'll never get more than 10" of travel.

    I guess I need to decide if I'm comfortable going through the bed with the shocks and changing leaf mounting points, or just work with what I have.
     
    Squeaky Penguin, Feb 28, 2017
    #4477
    jubei likes this.
  18. Feb 28, 2017 at 9:35 PM
    #4478
    Oowen

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    Oowen Well-Known Member

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    Are these repairable easily? Or chuck them in the trash?
     
    Oowen, Feb 28, 2017
    #4478
  19. Feb 28, 2017 at 9:45 PM
    #4479
    deadhed61

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    deadhed61 :notsure:

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    Anything can be fixed, it's just a matter of how much time and money you want to put into it.

    How are the shafts?
     
    deadhed61, Feb 28, 2017
    #4479
  20. Feb 28, 2017 at 9:47 PM
    #4480
    Oowen

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    Oowen Well-Known Member

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    Shafts are ok. I am more worried about the threads on the shock body were the collar jumped out of place
     
    Oowen, Feb 28, 2017
    #4480
Page 224 of 315

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