What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

When would you use the L vs 2? Is the only advantage it has engine braking?

 

when your offroad and want to keep tranny from constantly shifting

 

Oh so you'd only use it when off-roading or you need engine braking?

 

I wouldn't use L (1st gear) for engine braking except in slow speed off roading, and I wouldn't force the transmission to downshift into 1st if you can help it.

 

pretty much. And the engine braking is weak as it is on the autos compared to a manual but it still helps take off some of the work from the brakes.

What? why?? its just a gear. I do it all the time if i need to.

 

Any good way to do a timing belt without a cam shafts tool?

 

Possibly for the first time ever, a question about downsizing tires. I need some help subjectively quantifying how much a downsize will help. In several weeks I'm trekking out to Seattle for a ~3400 mile round trip. I've done Death Valley and back with my current tires so it's doable without going insane, I just keep hoping to maybe make the truck a little more streetable as it's my DD (plus KO2s are supposed to rock it in the snow). I have 33x10.5r15 KM2s and I'm thinking of going down to 32x11.5r15 KO2s to both kill some of the noise and gain a little more gearing/power back.

RN I'm running 33x10.5R15 KM2's on a 3RZ/5spd with a few performance mods (LCE header, Balance shaft delete) and 4.30 gears (the saving grace). With all the extra weight I'm carrying around all the time I have a lack of power especially when hills come into play. I70 west out of Denver makes me run at about 4500-5000 RPM in 2nd gear most of the way up the mountains and I have to downshift into 4th to navigate most hills even in MN (5th is a flat/downhill only cruise gear for me).

Do you think I'll gain enough torque back from downsizing 1" ø? That's a 3.94% increase. Or would I really need to go to 31s to see enough power gain to make it worth it?

 

I used a piece of scrap 2x4 with some strategically-drilled holes and a couple of steel punches. Worked like a charm.

 

Eh, might just be kind of a bad feeling thing. That's a lot of torque on the output shaft too.

 

Ack, should I have gotten that instead of this?

$34 iCrimp Battery Cable Lug Crimping Tool for 8, 6, 4, 2, 1, 1/0 AWG Heavy Duty Wire Lugs, Battery Terminal, Copper Lugs with Wire Shear Cutter

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVE48Z6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

You messed up man

 

Ironic that a company from China is warning about counterfeit products

 

I love quality reviews like that. Thanks for posting that.

 

you'll see a small increase..but only small. Tire is only 2lbs lighter and it is wider so you probably won't see a big change in MPGs either.

31s would be a nice boost most likely. But really, look at shedding weight as much as possible and that will help too.

meh. It can take it. Was made too. I found myself always putting in in L for offroading on harder spots so it wouldn't shift into 2nd or sit there and slip in 2nd.

 

Thx to imtaconico got in on the group buy for the arb compressor...just running it for tires so went single compressor also to follow tomtom's build but I added the frame plate so that at least a fourth bolt would go onto something...a little bending and using a dremel and a drill made for a fun little start to having onboard air

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/tomtoms-03-trd-xtra-cab-sold.259729/page-18

 

I don't think it will make much of a difference. I travel 70 outside of Denver quite often with my 3rz on 32.8 diameter tires and 4.88 gears. I am constantly in the 4500-5000 rpm range going up the hills. If I had to guess the truck has roughly 550-600 lbs of weight in the bed all the time. I think boost is the only thing that can really help our trucks at that altitude.

 

Well went back to cvj and got the correct rack. They offer both and I didn't realize that. The roller style rack is cheaper than the bushing style. I picked up the bushing style for $420 with a $225 core. So $645 without a core. I think an all new OEM rack can be had for close to $550 from Camelback. So if for some reason you don't have a core it's definitely not worth it.

Also the itr's don't have as much articulation as OEM or the Moog I previously had. Because of that it made reinstalling the otr into the spindle a little difficult. On the passenger side I had to jack up on the lca to get it in. Doesn't appear to effect anything once it's in though.

 

For a 130 more....... You coulda went oem.....just sayin

 

$130 is a lot of beer and and a couple of tanks of fuel though

 

I like beer...and jameson...and boobs