NW WA Meet / BS Thread

Hey I'm also in the market for UCA's. I'd like to go through Headstrong off road based on referrals. It's my daily driver but ill be taking the off-roading trips of course. Light Racing ball joint uca's are 435.00 and TC uniball ucas $679.99. Is it really worth the extra 200+ for uniball for slight more articulation but more maintenance? Are there other better option?

 

Dont use a wite brush you can damage ur threads on the coil over body. Jack the front up and drop your wheel so its fully extended and takes compression off spring. If you cant break it loose with the spanner wrench i suggest unmounting the coil over and putting it in the vice. You dont want to break anything, depending on what brand you are using getting parts is a bitch. Uh hum...Fox

 

Well luckily I have found a brush yet. Icons

 

I just instalked LR UCAs and i am happy. I offroad like you and like it was stated before, how often do you see uca's break? Us i just found out SPC is carried by les schwab so parts are readily available. I wouldnt do the more expensive UCAs unless you go bigger than a 33" tire

 

Just to cover all bases... The tires are off the ground and you unscrewed the alan screw on the collar right? If so then just use a spanner wrench and push/pull. They are brand new they should move easily

 

There is a thread here about these: http://jbaoffroad.com/toyota/tacoma...r-upper-a-arms-for-2005-14-toyota-tacoma.html

They should give you the articulation of the TCs without the maintenance.

The thread here is : https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...sion-mega-thread.364484/page-70#post-14523535

 

Thanks. No I won't go bigger than 33. Appreciate it

 

Jesus i cant spell tonight

 

Yes. Uniballs are much stronger

 

Yes off the ground and set screw is backed out. I'll keep working them

 

Wheels off the ground, everything loose, and some kind of wd40 won't hurt. If it feels like you're gonna break or strip something, take it out and take a spring compressor to it. And the wire brush thing, if you do don't use a steel brush. Brass won't fuck up the aluminum.

 

I got it moving but can't use the straight end of the wrench have to use the wrap around. I'm having to use a small cheater on it. The threads aren't gauled a little dirty but not bad.

Second question is preloading going to help keep from dipping on bumps or just the ride height?

 

It should be straight ride height.

 

If soaking with WD40 doesn't work, use a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF fluid. If that won't break it loose, nothing will.

 

Went up 3/4" on the preload and now maxed out and have a vibration or hum on the floor on and off to 40mph

 

Ok, group consensus here. Is 3/4" /maxed out to much? Wouldn't heavier springs be the answer? What do you guys with bumpers and winches say? ( I have 750# springs, so I cant really give valid input)
@northwesttaco? Nick? Bob?

 

Post a picture of your CV angles. Likely too high

 

He already has 650lb coils, that shouldn't be the issue since he doesn't have skids/sliders/winch yet. Even then I'd think 650lb coils are sufficient

 

Wait.
Jon, WHAT are you rubbing? Going straight? Turning? What is your caster set to? Are there rub marks on your cab mounts?

 

I had a CMC done and had sliders for a while. I now have the bumper (60lbs) and a winch (80lbs) on the truck and was rubbing the going straight hitting storm water drains. I decided to see if preloading would keep from rubbing which it does but with my drivers CO maxed out at 2-1/8"ish the passenger side is around 1-1/2" of preload. I'll have to grab a pic tomorrow. Probably gonna drop the bumper and pull the winch out. I was on the piece of trim on the outside of the cab mount. The plastic and sheet metal.