Cold air intake

Installed a cold air with all of correct connections. Now it will barely run and backfire. Tried to reset ecm and didn't help. Reinstalled factory air cleaner, and runs great. Anyone have any ideas?

 

Sell the cold air intake and use your OEM cold air intake in its proper place.

 

Did you take the packaging out of it?

 

Currently that's what I had to do. The fresh air removed entire factory contraption and direct mount to tb. Thought it was good idea. How do others make work? Why is it not liking extra air?

 

Packaging?

 

Brecop,
You got sold a bill of goods. The factory intake IS a cold air intake, and nothing you do to that factory setup will improve your performance. Take it back and get a refund. Put the money toward seat covers.

 

Nice Badger,
I know factory is cold air as it takes from fender. It just looked small for air intake. Rule of thumb is to not restrict airflow in/out. Still don't understand the chambers in the factory contraption

 

what intake did you buy? did you install the maf sensor in the right way and is it fully in its home?

 

The intake plenum design is to pulse match the airflow to the engine. The factory intake does not restrict the airflow. The stock engine could not use more air if it had it.

 

AJF. Cheap but it had the correct mounts for MAF, pcv. Has heat shield and high flow filter.

 

ajf? you mean afe right?

 

Badger,
That's what I was curious about. I'm thinking about changing exhaust. Shop suggests cutting secondary cats open to weld 2 1/4 to them, combine into Y pipe which would in turn collect into 3" out the back. Any experience?

 

Might be AFE. I just wanted the filter, heat shield and eliminate excess stuff in the engine

 

it sounds like you have no idea what you bought. without accurate information I can be of no help nor will anyone else. sounds like you had a vacuume leak or a miss installed maf sensor. so good luck

 

My advise is don't do it. Take a look at the performance specs on the URD Y pipe and exhaust. They are one of the best designed systems for these trucks, and the gains are negligible. They used to have the torque and HP curves on their website. There is a tiny loss at lower RPM and a tiny gain higher. That is pretty typical of a well designed system. A poorly designed system will almost always DECREASE performance. Be aware that engines produce more torque, and low RPM power when they have some exhaust back pressure. The only vehicles that benefit from super open exhausts, are race engines with long valve duration, and operating at high RPM. the only way intake or exhaust mods will help your performance is if they are done in conjunction with internal engine mods, like cam and valves. Lots of people end up with louder trucks, and they convince themselves that they have more power, but the dyno ALWAYS tells another story.

I will probably get the URD system when my cats go, but I won't be expecting any gain,...just a cat free truck.

 

Umm 22 HP and 34 TQ is not a small gain imho and there is no loss in low end

 

And that's just the Headers without the Y pipe

 

Thank you for the honesty. This is my daily driver and currently my hobby project. I retired from 2 wheel racing and building supercharged v8's. The input is very informative.

 

http://www.customtacos.com/forum/13-performance/75368-urd-dyno-chart.html

Below 3000 RPM, the stock engine makes more power. The real gains from the URD system don't appear till almost 4,000 rpm. How often do any of us run our trucks above 4000 rpm unless we are racing?

 

Agreed. Normally 1500-1850 rpm daily drive. At 3000rpm on highway, 109mph.